One leaky head stud

topchop

topchop

Senior Member
After about 1200 miles, I have one head stud that is showing signs of a leak. Can I just remove the nut, clean, apply sealer and re-torque nut? Or will I have to remove stud and seal that? What is best sealer?

Thanks.
 

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I had the same problem with one stud when I replaced the heads on my '34. I added 'K-Seal' to my coolant and the leak stopped in a very short period of time.

See > http://www.kseal.com/k-seal/
K-Seal-Bottle1.jpg

Unlike inferior coolant products, K-Seal mixes with all types of antifreeze and coolant. There’s no need to drain or flush the system before or after treatment.
 
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topchop said:
After about 1200 miles, I have one head stud that is showing signs of a leak. Can I just remove the nut, clean, apply sealer and re-torque nut? Or will I have to remove stud and seal that? What is best sealer?

Thanks.
Click to expand...

Carefully pull the stud out and use some Permatex #1C (hard-setting) on the lower threads, reinstall the stud and re-torque it!

We see this all time on the SB/BB Chevies (mostly on ones we don't assemble) during the dyno sessions, eventually they do stop on their own.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. Taking the present weather conditions into consideration if you can leave the anti-freeze out for a few days it will help seal it up. The oil-base in the anti-freeze stops it from trying to seal on it's own.
 

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Going to use what GOSFAST recommended first. I have the coolant drained for installation of rebuilt heater, so it is an excellent opportunity to pull that stud.

Just remembered, a while back I used irontite (ceramic motor seal) to seal a leaky freeze plug on a newly rebuilt 350 Chevy motor.

http://www.irontite.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1

Worked like a charm, but irontite reacts poorly to antifreeze, so block had to be flushed completely before adding it to the cooling system.
 
Wow! Professor Henry, after reading that thread all the way through, I just have to smile. You are still my hero.
 
Only ONE leaky stud?! Count yourself lucky. I still get a seep every now and then after 3,000 miles, and I used Permatex (the stinky brown stuff) on the threads in the block, as well as SilverSeal.
 
don,t use sealer unless you have a used car lot . wait till spring drain the anti freez flush with water. then fill with water drive car. it will seal its self
 
I fought the use of "sealers" for years but finally came around and admit most are acceptable.
 
My engine builder, who has been specializing in Ford flathead 4's and V8's for decades, recommended the Silverseal on the first sign of seepage. And, since I live in a cold climate I can't just drive the thing with plain water til the rust seals up the nooks and crannies.
 
When I worked for ford a remanufactured engine always came with a couple of sealer tablets. I believe Barrs makes them. Same as Ronnie posted.
 
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