Mounting a replacement starter on a Model A

mill48

mill48

Member
Hi, forgive me if I seem naive about mechanics on my 1928 Model A. I have a 12V charging system and was running 12V through my 6V original style starter. The starter finally went out and I have decided to replace it with the 12V gear reduction starter from Snyder's. I am contemplating mounting the new starter myself, but I cannot find any explicit instructions on how to set it in where it lines up with the ring gear on the flywheel (am I saying this correctly?). First of all, is this something I should try on my own or should I let a mechanic install the new starter? If it is something I can do on my own, does anyone know where I can find a set of instructions? Even Les' Manual was not detailed.
 
Remove the old starter by unscrewing the three bolts,the new starter will slip into the ring gear and line itself up.
Easy job you can do yourself,there is only one way it will fit.
 
Welcome to the hobby! You will find that starters are one the simplest parts to locate into position. There are no wrong choices! The only difficult part is to "shoehorn" it into position. There are three bolts that secure it. The bolt that is behind the starter and if it were long enough, would interfere with the fly wheel. This bolt is the shortest of the three and must be used in this position. But tell me, what are you trying to accomplish with the 12V gear reduction starter? 95% of model A s on the road have their stock 6V starters. I realize that it must have been converted to 12V sometime in the past, but why the gear reduction? It's 200 cu. in, 4cyl. low compression engine, it isn't really necessary, I think.
Terry
 
Terry, NJ, I just thought I would go with 12V since I was replacing the starter anyway. My Model A had already been converted to 12V.
 
The 6 volt starter works fine on a 12 volt system, the option you are looking at also works fine, we have that on the roadster pickup the sedan is running an original starter on 12 volts both no problems.
 
6 volt starter spins faster on 12 volts, so make sure you retard the spark lever before starting to reduce starter damage!
 
6vdc on 12vdc ... works well . the only thing I found is
1. had to remove dip stick
2. kind of a jiggle / jiggle to get the starter drive past the flywheel ......
 
Thank you all guys. I have had my Model A only about three months and I am still familiarizing myself with it. I find this forum loaded with great advice. I'm sure I will be back.
 
Just take your time. You don't have to force anything. Stick with it. Good luck. I sent you a private message. jack
 
Screw A-20904 is the bolt that holds the starter to the flywheel cover, and all 3 are the same 3/8-16 X 1" length.

Someone must have used a wrong bolt at one time, then started the rumor that one bolt is shorter.
 
Your stater problem could be some thing simple like a bad starter switch. If it has a replacement switch that very well could be the problem.
I have been running 12 volts on 6 Volt starters for some of my A's for years.
The engine in my hill climb car with my home built over head and very high compression. works fine with 12 volts on the 6 volt starter.
 
Trust Tom to know! Here's where I derived that info from. I had my first Mod. A
starter out about the second week I owned it and it was bolted in that way (2 long bolts and 1 short bolt) I figured it was just bad choice farmer fix until a friend told me "no, no, the short bolt goes to the back of the fly wheel so it won't bind the fly wheel when it's tightened. Ford did it that way" I believe that of my three cars, three of them are bolted this way. Obviously, it's not stock . I think I recall that the two outer bolts are 1 1/4' long. Live and learn!
Terry




Tom Wesenberg said:
Screw A-20904 is the bolt that holds the starter to the flywheel cover, and all 3 are the same 3/8-16 X 1" length.

Someone must have used a wrong bolt at one time, then started the rumor that one bolt is shorter.
Click to expand...
 
There is a "half moon" casting at the end of a stock starter drive. Be sure to rotate prior it to installation so that is clears the ring gear.
 
I was using my regular 6-volt starter on 12-vlots (with the new style Bendix) for a number of years and it was working satisfactorily. Somewhere along the line, one of my friends purchased one of the gear reduction starters from Snyder's for his own cars, but decided not to use it and gave it to me. It sat on the shelf in my garage until last year when I was installing my new engine, and I decided to checkit out. It was actually easier to install than the original starter, mainly due to the smaller footprint, and the way the Bendix goes in. I've used it now for a year, about 2,000 miles and have no complaints. It does look & sound different, but it doesn't bother me.
 
After taking the stock starter off I noticed that the service sleeve was cracked and the spring was broken. I just figured that while I had it off, I may as well go with the 12V gear reduced starter.
 
I have one of the new type starters you can also set it up to work with the original push starter in the car requires a little work but not bad at all.
 
Ok guys, I told you I would probably be back. As i wait for the new gear reduced starter to come in, i have another question. I currently use a key to start my Model A. I am told by Snyder's that I will need to install a push button switch with this starter. My question is, do I have to disconnect the wiring from the keyed switch in order for this to work?
 
Mill, here is my take on this... The original starter used the foot pedal to make contact to operate the starter. Later units had a sole noid to make contact to operate the starter.
If you are saying you only had to use the key (one click ignition, second position spring loaded start and return... you are good to just hook up the original wire to the solenoid.
If NOT, you need to hook up a momentary push button (Or something) to the solenoid on the 12 volt unit solenoid. Did I confuse you? I hope not.
 
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