E brake handle not holding
- Thread starter Rip
- Start date
SeaSlugs
Well-known member
that and i believe the catch is supposed to be saw toothed not gear teeth so it holds against the prawl. The way it is now you wouldn't have any holding resistance (think of a door key teeth sliding in a lock)
slop can be accounted for by adjusting it out but teeth being fubared well thats time to replace. Unless you like a weld up and grind down challenge
slop can be accounted for by adjusting it out but teeth being fubared well thats time to replace. Unless you like a weld up and grind down challenge
Tom Wesenberg
Well-known member
Do you have good spring pressure pushing the thumb button up?
Rip
Member
A better photo shows full engagement between pawl and ratchet with handle fully applying the ebrakes
So pulling the handle back is applying the e brakes but taking hand off e handle doesn't "latch/lock" pawl into ratchet.
On jackstands, I confirmed e brakes working earlier that day.
CORRECTION. On closer exam now, the pawl is not fully engaging the farthest ratchet tooth when handle released. Appears the cause is that slop!
Final question
, any suggestions on how and what to use to sleeve the e brake handle pivot bolt since slop is in the handle?
Thx, Rip
So pulling the handle back is applying the e brakes but taking hand off e handle doesn't "latch/lock" pawl into ratchet.
On jackstands, I confirmed e brakes working earlier that day.
CORRECTION. On closer exam now, the pawl is not fully engaging the farthest ratchet tooth when handle released. Appears the cause is that slop!
Final question
, any suggestions on how and what to use to sleeve the e brake handle pivot bolt since slop is in the handle?Thx, Rip
Attachments
Synchro909
Well-known member
Try welding it up and re drilling the hole. I suggest you check the bolt too, it may be worn, contributing to the slack.
DaWizard
BANNED
Not so sure I would weld it up unless you have another to use as template for redrilling the hole. But I might consider a steel sleeve, again, position dependent on a template. If the wear is also on the pawl, those are readily available through the vendors.
One other thing, it is getting to be the swap meet season, so if you don't have the wherewithal to rebuild it, you might want to check eBay, and or the Swap Meet area here for a replacement. Ya never know what ya might find
Another note; I am not so sure that pivot should be a "bolt and nut" since all of them I have seen were clevis and cotter pin.
Tom Wesenberg
Well-known member
I would weld and redrill the hole in the handle, but I'm not sure how much that would help. The parking brake should be adjusted to be fairly firm on the second click when you pull the handle. You might try adjusting the rods first and see if it holds on the second or third click. It looks like the pawl and notches engage nicely, so if the spring has good tension on the handle button, I'm not seeing why it would come out of engagement.
Rip
Member
I think I'd prefer to sleeve the sloppy connection in a drill press rather than weld and try to center drill exactly.
So Let me see if I understand the preliminary effort.
1-Engine off and in neutral, Put rear wheels off ground,pull e brake handle to locate which click is currently causing start of drag when wheel hand spun forward. (Think Just using this as indicator of how much it has to be adjusted, if it matters at this point).
2-Maybe then put handle in second Or third click and adjust e brake with threaded clevise going to rear wheel (actually shortening the rod length) at e brake cross shaft until hear more drag when hand spinning wheel forward.
Now that I've rewritten this several times for clarity, it sounds kind of hit and miss. I Will use some kind of indexing marks to refer back to and try one rear wheel at a time.
Then I guess I'll know if that 3/16" slop at handle tor rod clevis needs addressing.
Sure appreciate a little more help, Rip.
So Let me see if I understand the preliminary effort.
1-Engine off and in neutral, Put rear wheels off ground,pull e brake handle to locate which click is currently causing start of drag when wheel hand spun forward. (Think Just using this as indicator of how much it has to be adjusted, if it matters at this point).
2-Maybe then put handle in second Or third click and adjust e brake with threaded clevise going to rear wheel (actually shortening the rod length) at e brake cross shaft until hear more drag when hand spinning wheel forward.
Now that I've rewritten this several times for clarity, it sounds kind of hit and miss. I Will use some kind of indexing marks to refer back to and try one rear wheel at a time.
Then I guess I'll know if that 3/16" slop at handle tor rod clevis needs addressing.
Sure appreciate a little more help, Rip.
Tom Wesenberg
Well-known member
Have the ****** in neutral when you check any brake drag on the rear wheels.
I would unhook the left parking brake rod, loosen the lock nut, pull the parking brake lever forward to lock the wheel, then screw the end of the rod until the parking brake pin just drops through the hole. Now, don't install the pin, but unscrew the end a turn and insert the pin, then check the wheel for drag. You want the drag to just barely be gone when you insert the pin. Repeat this same operation for the right side.
After doing both side, see if the rear wheels lock on the second or third click.
If you drill and insert a bushing in the handle, it will have the hole in the wrong position, since the hole is now a slot. Either weld it shut then drill the hole where it should be, or use a mill to make the hole for the bushing. The forward end of the slot shouldn't have any wear, so let that be the guide for the correct hole location.
I would unhook the left parking brake rod, loosen the lock nut, pull the parking brake lever forward to lock the wheel, then screw the end of the rod until the parking brake pin just drops through the hole. Now, don't install the pin, but unscrew the end a turn and insert the pin, then check the wheel for drag. You want the drag to just barely be gone when you insert the pin. Repeat this same operation for the right side.
After doing both side, see if the rear wheels lock on the second or third click.
If you drill and insert a bushing in the handle, it will have the hole in the wrong position, since the hole is now a slot. Either weld it shut then drill the hole where it should be, or use a mill to make the hole for the bushing. The forward end of the slot shouldn't have any wear, so let that be the guide for the correct hole location.