Removing nickel plating

W

wrndln

Well-known member
I have a 29 radiator shell that is structurally in pretty good condition. I would like to use it for my 29 CCPU. However, it has a bad case of peeling nickel plating. I tried to sandblast the shell a little and the plating that was left was very hard or almost impossible to remove. I plan to use a little high build primer or a light coat of filler to repair the minor rust pitting before I paint it. I would rather not leave the nickel remains on the shell before working on the surface. Does anyone have a good method to remove the nickel plating that is still stuck to the shell. I know a plater could probably remove the nickel, but I would like to do it myself a little cheaper if possible. Thanks for any help with this.
Rusty Nelson
 
Having plating removed is not expensive or at least they shouldn't be charging much should not take long either.
 
Bruce of MN said:
I think Eastwood has DIY plater kits. Maybe running that in reverse would take off the plating.:confused:
Click to expand...
Don't run it in reverse, it will strip any bare steel in preference to the nickel. Nickel strip is a soaking compound that does not affect bare steel. Most plating shops have a nickel strip bath, and as there is virtualy no labour involved as it is placed in the tank and left. There should only be a chemical disposal/epa charge plus a bit for the shop.
 
There have been some discussions about this on the boards over the years and as far as I know there is no home method for removing nickle plating from steel.

I went through the same process a few years back. I called a plating company and they wanted $100 just to remove what was left of the old nickel plating. Call the plating companies in your area and see what they will charge.

I wasn't going to pay that, so I blasted the shell and sprayed it with black epoxy primer for the base coat, a little sanding primer, then the black.

I have no doubt it will outlast me with that base of epoxy. If by some chance it doesn't, I'll blast it again, spray it, and still be ahead of the game.
 
Yeah, for 100 bucks, I think I would blast it and if any edges left, sand it smooth and epoxy it too.
 
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