Help with 34 Ford Front Fenders

Gary Tosel

Gary Tosel

Well-known member
In the process of installing stock front fenders on a 34 Ford 5W Coupe.

We have a stock 34 5W Coupe to get some details, but the process of installing the center casting between the fenders, grille apron, grille and braces requires us to ask for some help with the order and the attachment sequence to follow. No problem with running boards or rear fenders.

It is not my car, but am helping a friend.

Thanks
 
I was hoping someone would reply to your questions because I have the same issues with my sedan. Nothing seems to fit right, (especially grille and hood), and I'm planning on trying to deal with it soon. Any advice or tips, guys?
Thanks, Doug.
 
I'm not sure of the "correct" way, but when I mocked my sedan up I installed the lower radiator pan, inner fenders, fenders, front pan, tie bracket (between fenders), grill, hood. Had to loosen things up here and there (fender braces installed loose to start) along with adjusting radiator rods to get it aligned. Very time consuming! I had to raise the radiator a little to get the ends of hood sides parallel to cowl. Hope this helps a little, maybe someone will chime in with the "correct" way.
 
I've taken off and re-installed front fenders, grill etc on 33 Fords quite a few times. It isn't an easy job for sure. The height of the radiator, length of the radiator support rods, location of the grill brackets on the radiator sides all come into play. I don't know if there is any sequence that is better, I think the trick is to leave every bolt loose and have patience. A couple of crow's foot bars helps too.
I just got done putting my 33 2 dor sedan back together (again) and got all the bolts in, the hood and grill fit ok, but the crank doesn't line up with the motor all that good. It used to fit, I suppose I could loosen a bunch of bolts and try to wiggle it into place - or else just live with it.
 
When I did my '33 5 window, I installed the rad, fender braces and inner fenders first, then installed the fenders and the joiner piece inbetween, then then the bolts for the crank pan, then the grille, then the crank pan, which goes on under the fenders. Leave everything slightly loose until you get the hood on, make your final adjustments and then tighten everything up. If you're using welting between the inner fenders and the fenders and the bottom of the grille, it would go in as you bolt up the fenders and grille.
 
Its quiet a challenge to get these all lined up .I deviated from stock and attached the crank holed lower pan last with wing nuts so I can remove it for cleaning . Ted
 
I have had questions about this as well.

If I understand correctly from the posts above, the lip of the triangular pan with the crank hole goes under the fender lip and the grill obviously goes on top of the fender lip.

Am I correct?

Thanks!

Brad
 
When they were built, the order of assembly was the radiator, radiator support rods, grille with the between-the-front-fenders casting attached to the grille, the large front fender brackets, the fender aprons, the front fenders, the triangular grille pan, and lastly the small rear fender braces. The setting of the grille and radiator relative to the cowl was accomplished with a fixture, but the same thing can be accomplished by temporarily installing the hood hinge moulding to the cowl and radiator and measuring the openings for the hood side panels to ensure that those openings are equidistant on both sides of the vehicle. As suggested above, tighten no fasteners except those for the radiator and the casting at the bottom of the grille until everything is in place. The front fenders should be supported independent of the fender support brackets to ensure that they are level as the brackets should be among the very last fasteners that you tighten.
 
One thing to keep in mind is that 33 to early 34 fenders are different ( not talking about skirtless fenders ).Also the inner fender panels are different. they will both work but if you get a 33 on one side and a 34 on the other you could have problems. also I have found that the lower grill panel can go on top of fenders and also on the bottom . Most times they will work better one way or the other . Also there 33 lower grill panel and a 34 are different . I just bought an early 34 5-W (glass code 11/33)
the front fenders have never been off . They are 33 fenders
 
This is imporant----- i think it should stay on new posts for a few pages------ what do you guys think ??????
 
I mocked mine up before painting. When the parts came back from the painter Gremlins must have sabotaged the left fender horn (the part of the fender that joins in front to the joiner). While assembling by myself I found one horn was shorter being further back than right side by 1/2 to 3/4 of inch either way I am trying to forget that it ever happened... I loosen up all the bolts to running board and i mean literally tugged and pulled, pried and bitched and moaned till i got it with in reason to put a duck bill vice grip with wood shims in the jaws to line it up get the bolt through the joiner and fenders eyelets bolt holes. I am still wondering how they got the small bolt thought the top inside of the radiator shell (grille) to the top of the fender joiner. I cut the the threads off mine and epoxied the bolt head on. Just for those who care. Yes and if you look close enough you will see the touch up paint also. :-000
 
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I would love to go back in time to watch those guys on the assembly floor put these cars together. Maybe I'd learn a few new cuss words.
I got a chuckle out of epoxying the bolt head on, but I can certainly understand the reason!
 
Thank you to all of you that helped us with the front fenders. Welting, large braces and rear of fender braces were not a problem.

The real problem came when we tried to get the through bolt in the front center casting and through the front hole of the fenders. WOW! that is a real challenge. Finally got the fenders to line up with a lot of bending and prying.

The other issue we have not resolved is why the bottom of each fender at the location of the triangle inner pan has three holes as well as the triangular pan. Only one d nut is located inside the grille for a 1/4-20 bolt to attach from under the fender. The other two holes on either side DO NOT have holes in the grille, only indentations that line up with these holes.

This would indicate that the other bolts go from inside the triangle pan to the fender with the bolt head located on the grille indentation. This would mean that the triangle pan would be bolted to both fenders and the cast center piece and then the grille would be installed with the two smaller bolts holding the triangle pan, fender and grille together.

Anyone install this way?
 
Like David posted above, the cast tie piece was attached to bottom of grill first. The "tri-angle" pan was attached under fenders, hence bolt head clearance. The d-nuts in grill was for bolts to go up through pan and fenders into grill. Now try and picture putting the U- shaped bracket under fender and shoving the cast tie piece attached to grill down between the fenders.... The assembly line photos you find on the net clearly show the fenders and grill on the frame before the body drop. I have tried a few different ways to learn before it's painted.
 
I tend to go along with Garry, I think maybe the grill and two fenders were a sub assembly ,so that bolt could be fitted while standing were the radiator should be , We did one were the fender welt was a continua's length from running board to RB ,but we used a fillet of metal with a blunt point inside the welt and attached to that bolt to get it nice and tidy around the bottom of the Grill ,Ted

Quote
This would indicate that the other bolts go from inside the triangle pan to the fender with the bolt head located on the grille indentation. This would mean that the triangle pan would be bolted to both fenders and the cast center piece and then the grille would be installed with the two smaller bolts holding the triangle pan, fender and grille together.Tqaute
 
Wonderful windows 10 has issues with outlook.com and my old email is dead and I cannot remember my password here so here we are . Mods if you send me a new password for my old account [ David J ] so I can get back into it this one is not needed .

THAT SAID it seems there are many opinions on this and none are like my version so here it is .

First step is the shield [ 16551 ] under the radiator , radiator , radiator support rods .inner fender skirts , hood and grille . This is the " foundation " of the front end and you need to get this all fitting nice with all the gaps right and tighten up the skirts where they fit to the frame and also where the deflector under the radiator bolts to them in front . Tighten the radiator down along with the radiator support rods and grille brackets on the RADIATOR ONLY . If you have done a good job of this your gaps and fit will be good to stay .

Now take the hood and grille off as they are just sitting there anyway . Now put the big fender braces and their little support rods on but do not tighten them past snug . This is also time to check heights on the big braces so the fenders-lights aren't cockeyed . Put the fenders on with ALL BOLTS lose and then put the center casting in place . Put the triangle pan on UNDER the fenders and yes the indents in the grille are clearance for the bolt heads . Tighten the bolts where the fenders bolt to the running boards making sure the fenders are tight against the frame . Align the big fender braces with the hole for the horn bolt in the tenders and install the headlight stands using the horn bolts . Put the carriage bolts in on the outer end of the brace . Tighten the big braces on the frame and then the truss rods between the front crossmember and fender brace . Put the grille back on for fitting purposes in front and when you get that to fit tighten all fender bolts .

Pretty hard to fit fenders if the " foundation " is off and besides this way the fenders have nothing to do with hood-grille-apron-cowl fit .

Not saying this is the best way but it sure works . Like fixing a car on my frame rack - you do the " foundation " first .

David J
 

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Got my password reset so the new account can be nixed .

DavidJ said:
Wonderful windows 10 has issues with outlook.com and my old email is dead and I cannot remember my password here so here we are . Mods if you send me a new password for my old account [ David J ] so I can get back into it this one is not needed .

THAT SAID it seems there are many opinions on this and none are like my version so here it is .

First step is the shield [ 16551 ] under the radiator , radiator , radiator support rods .inner fender skirts , hood and grille . This is the " foundation " of the front end and you need to get this all fitting nice with all the gaps right and tighten up the skirts where they fit to the frame and also where the deflector under the radiator bolts to them in front . Tighten the radiator down along with the radiator support rods and grille brackets on the RADIATOR ONLY . If you have done a good job of this your gaps and fit will be good to stay .

Now take the hood and grille off as they are just sitting there anyway . Now put the big fender braces and their little support rods on but do not tighten them past snug . This is also time to check heights on the big braces so the fenders-lights aren't cockeyed . Put the fenders on with ALL BOLTS lose and then put the center casting in place . Put the triangle pan on UNDER the fenders and yes the indents in the grille are clearance for the bolt heads . Tighten the bolts where the fenders bolt to the running boards making sure the fenders are tight against the frame . Align the big fender braces with the hole for the horn bolt in the tenders and install the headlight stands using the horn bolts . Put the carriage bolts in on the outer end of the brace . Tighten the big braces on the frame and then the truss rods between the front crossmember and fender brace . Put the grille back on for fitting purposes in front and when you get that to fit tighten all fender bolts .

Pretty hard to fit fenders if the " foundation " is off and besides this way the fenders have nothing to do with hood-grille-apron-cowl fit .

Not saying this is the best way but it sure works . Like fixing a car on my frame rack - you do the " foundation " first .

David J
Click to expand...
 
Getting the radiator at the correct height is pretty important and this is subject to your rescore maestro ,if its to low the first thing that happens when you tighten the top grill screws is you Fords Emblem cracks. I have seen poor fitting hoods because the recorer did a bad job .Also getting the bottom fender lip to grill massaged to a nice fit can be a challenge do this before paint .So if your getting a rescore make sure you give them a wood jig to pre fit to .Ted
 
Agreed and also if the radiator height is off you will not be able to get the hood - cowl and hood - grille gaps right .

FlatheadTed said:
Getting the radiator at the correct height is pretty important and this is subject to your rescore maestro ,if its to low the first thing that happens when you tighten the top grill screws is you Fords Emblem cracks. I have seen poor fitting hoods because the recorer did a bad job .Also getting the bottom fender lip to grill massaged to a nice fit can be a challenge do this before paint .So if your getting a rescore make sure you give them a wood jig to pre fit to .Ted
Click to expand...
 
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