It's not always the clutch

newshirt

Well-known member
FYI, if you release the clutch pedal and nothing happens, the clutch is not always at fault. Especially if the vehicle suddenly drops a foot and your rear wheel bounces past you. You might have snapped a rear axle!

I'm expecting to have to pull the rear end, and rebuild with new axles.

But I welcome all ten-minute fixes.
 

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Well, that sure sucks!
Were you moving when it happened?
From the looks of the fender and license plate it looks like you were rolling along.
I'm wondering why it would have broken, since it doesn't support a lot of weight.
 
You can show those photos with pride.:eek:
Time to get your tools out, I think. At least, if you have to put together a whole new rear end, you'll know exactly what you have in there and it should be good for many years. I don't know what has been done to the motor nor at what speed you drive but this might be the opportunity to change the diff ratio if you want.
I'd like to build a new rear end ready for change over but rebuildable ones are not easily found here.
 
Tom, I was moving about 25 mph. I think it was just old age and years of abuse. This was a ranch truck for a long time, and has many farmer fixes and "creative upgrades." Somebody fabricated that rear hitch for a reason.

I'm wondering if I should replace both axles while I'm in there. $400 ea!
 
Tom,
I'm sure he was rolling. I have seen a number of axles break and have almost experience it myself on my '30 Tudor. I caught it in a parking lot when it broke but the wheel was still on. This was on a trip in 2006 in Pidgeon Forge at the Smokey mountain meet. Fixed it up the next morning with a replacement axle...

I think that after years that sometimes metal fatigue takes place as I could see the crack had developed in time. It was about an inch inside the axle housing bearing surface so it was not visible from the outside. Had it happened the night before while I was traveling enroute with 18 wheelers behind me I might not be typing this today.
We all want to put common sense and analyze things but sometimes "stuff just happens".

At least he got it safely off the road. no one injured.. truck can be repaired.
Larry Shepard
 
I understand that the new axles are two piece welded ones and are not nearly as good as the originals. They may not be available any more.

Vic
 
yea i would replace them with 2 new to you known good ones... Is the crack of fatigue something magnafluxing would show up on?
 
Old Chevys were NOTORIOUS for breaking axles, when you backed up, MANY folks carried spare axles !
In his '29 Chev, a friend of mine broke his SECTOR shaft, doing a tight "U" turn, on a BUSY street, I hope he had spare SKIVIES???
Bill Fordowner
 
Our 1928 Tudor had an axle ready to fracture. I had pulled the rear brakes for a brake job and discovered one axle had several fatigue cracks as well as a completely shattered keyway. I am going to pull both shafts and have the apparently good one magnafluxed.

Austin Sevens of the same vintage as the Model A had a propensity for breaking axles at inopportune moments. My uncle's broke when on the way to his wedding. My good friend Keith had his break when passing the Victoria Monument in front of Buckingham Palace. We believe Queen Victoria was not amused.

I believe the design using a single key, instead of a spline is a significantly poor piece of engineering. But probably saved a few cents.
 
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If the axle nuts aren't kept torqued to 100lbs a little movement will guarantee snap the axle at exactly that spot, just inside the housing.
I include that check every Spring.
If you have shims in the hubs they're more likely to lose torque and need periodic retightening.
Hope that helps...good luck.
 
If the axle nuts aren't kept torqued to 100lbs a little movement will guarantee snap the axle at exactly that spot, just inside the housing.
I include that check every Spring.
If you have shims in the hubs they're more likely to lose torque and need periodic retightening.
Hope that helps...good luck.
Freddie,
GREAT tips like this are ALWAYS WELCOMED:) Sometimes even a small tip can save someone a LOT of GRIEF:D
Bill W.
 
If the axle nuts aren't kept torqued to 100lbs a little movement will guarantee snap the axle at exactly that spot, just inside the housing.
I include that check every Spring.
If you have shims in the hubs they're more likely to lose torque and need periodic retightening.
Hope that helps...good luck.

Thanks for the tip. I'll put that on the check list.

When I first bought my Town Sedan I was giving it the "New" car once over and found the right rear axle nut loose (among other things). I do give them a quick check when rotating tires but need to recheck with a torque wrench.
 
Ray,

Happy to hear you were not hurt. I look forward to your great video on this repair. Best wishes with it.
 
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