Having trouble aligning TDC with timing marks on 1956 Tbird

I hope your engine rebuilder knows that you don't line up the crank mark with the cam mark? On a Y-block Ford motor these marks you have to count 12 chain links between these on timing chain. I had a 55 Ford 292 in a car I bought and the motor was rebuilt and it would not start. I checked the compresion and it only had about 30 lbs in every cylinder. I took the timing cover of and that is what was wrong, I counted 12 chain links and put it back together and it runs as new. LOL
 
BOSSY said:
I hope your engine rebuilder knows that you don't line up the crank mark with the cam mark? On a Y-block Ford motor these marks you have to count 12 chain links between these on timing chain. ...
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just FYI... the crank pulley was put together incorrectly and got fixed, see comment #10 on pg 1

Image of the correct crank and camshaft timing mark alignment,
from the Eaton Balancing website.
http://www.eatonbalancing.com/blog/category/y-block/page/2/
 

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How free moving should the oil pump shaft be? I wonder if I have installed it incorrectly? I have an oil primer tool, and when I turn the oil pump shaft by hand using this tool, it seems to me it has some resistance and is not as free moving as I expected.

I now realize I installed the oil shaft upside down. When I pushed the shaft up while fitting the oil pump, the clip was pushed down the shaft. I wonder if that clip is too tight causing some resistance.

If I remove the oil pump to correct this, can I remove the pump without removing the oil pan?
 
zuburg said:
Regarding the clip at the top of the shaft: I thought the instructions said to put the clip on the shaft, then feed it up through the top of the oil pump? The purpose of the clip was to prevent the shaft from coming out of the oil pump when removing the distributor. Is this wrong?
Click to expand...

packrat5 said:
All I can say is YIKES!!!!! By the way, the clip on the oil drive shaft goes on from underneath, NOT from the top!!!!!!
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Oops, my bad. I was thinking of an FE. Yes, point up, clip down. :p
 
You will have some resistance turning the oil pump, either by hand or with the engine as you are pumping oil. You will probably notice some mild resistance even if you are not pumping oil as you are turning the gears inside the pump.

You should be able to remove the pump without removing the pan. Make sure the crush seal that goes on the tube that goes into the oil pump is sufficiently tightened so you don't have an air leak preventing the oil from being sucked into the pump.

zuburg said:
How free moving should the oil pump shaft be? I wonder if I have installed it incorrectly? I have an oil primer tool, and when I turn the oil pump shaft by hand using this tool, it seems to me it has some resistance and is not as free moving as I expected.

I now realize I installed the oil shaft upside down. When I pushed the shaft up while fitting the oil pump, the clip was pushed down the shaft. I wonder if that clip is too tight causing some resistance.

If I remove the oil pump to correct this, can I remove the pump without removing the oil pan?
Click to expand...
 
Yes, I got that from the instructions, I just didn't realize which end was up. I now know the clip was positioned correctly if I put the pointy end up.
 
I think I have another gasket for the oil pump so I think I will drop the oil pump if I can and flip the pump shaft around to make the distributor install easier.
 
Thanks to all for the suggestions. I pulled the oil pump and flipped the pump shaft around the right way. Amazing how easy it is to get the distributor shaft to mate up with the pointy end up. I also moved the crank to about 6 degrees BTDC and after a few tries got the distributor fitted with the rotor lined up where it should be. I'm starting to get excited about possibly installing the engine soon. My Fordomatic is supposed to be done by next week if my guy doesn't put me off for a 4th time.

Maybe my Christmas present will be getting the engine physically back in the car?
 
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