y block inlet phelonic or not?

.... he suggested using vacuum on choke not one on metering block to connect to dizzy, ....
The vacuum pressure fitting on the metering plate (with yellow cap) is specifically built as, and has the correct pressures for advancing the timing of the distributor.

The fitting on the choke is only meant to draw heated air into it's thermostat to open the choke as the engine warms.
 
thanks ive had it blocked, going to double check vac can on replacment dizzy that came out of apparant running vehicle, so far the condender and points had to be replaced, theres slight play in shaft, the cap not best may as well go full house and find the vac diaphram shot too. know the loadamatic one was ok so can swap vac from that, failing that im stumped. swapped the squirter for a 37 from 25 thinking was that. 50cc acc pump maybe?
 
With a 37 nozzle in there you could run out of pump. I don't see a need for that big nozzle or a 50cc pump. Still sounds like a timing problem to me.
 
im thinking that as dizzy was in a state to start and carb had rebuild, i have messed about with timing mixture swapped back the original loadamatic and nothing, my pal says its carb, im on the fence however i ran it with choke flap almost shut just around block and was huge improvment, so i am well confused!
 
If it runs better with the choke closed it has to be a vacuum leak somewhere. A vacuum leak is under the carb, so its getting more air then fuel. By closing the choke you are cutting off some of the air supply making it run better. I will ask again what do you have it timed at? If its not a loadmatic dist it will run just fine without the vacuum advance for now. Find out what you have for timing and what is built in to the dist. Put in as much advance on the crank as the engine will allow without pinging. Then chase a carb problem.
 
hello all ta for input! been out there spanneing again today went thro the 57 on points dizzy and refitted, done timing she fires on the button but still boggy reving, hand over choke revs up sweet, carb developed a fuel leak at rear so off it came, outer 4 screws on underside finger tite inner 2 missing :eek:
bit of a revelation, the carb that ran sweet <or as good as it could with loadamatic< and the carb ive had on there two years and done many many miles was actually a holley 600 for some reason i thought was a 390 and parted it out for this rebuilt 465. ive done the carb cfm calculations but in past had a 600 on my 318 then a 750 when converted to a 440, i ran a 500 on my 3.5litre rover v8 and my mate has a down jetted edelbrock 500 on his rover v8.so on paper yes says how to calculate cfm but on every v8 ive owned over 10 plus years they according to calculations would have all been tooo big.......yet they ran perfect and even some went on dyno.sooo i am sending my 465 back <i think somthing wrong with it anyway> and have a 600 coming.
 
yes she all timed up pal did it not sure what deg sorry.i again sprayed around sides of carb, carb base,inlet to heads and no air leaks.is a classic air leak symptom but not.
 
..... may as well go full house and find the vac diaphram shot too. know the loadamatic one was ok so can swap vac from that......
The old Loadomatic vacuum unit probably won't fit on the newer '57+ distributor you have.
But even if it does, the distributors are made to function completely differently
If it works at all it would be very poorly.
 
was complete distributor swap,the original loadamatic to a points 57 on distributor i probobally did 1000 plus miles over a two year period with:
a pertronix converted loadamatic, my modified 2 hole inlet with a 600 holley and although bit fluffy under 1500rpm actually not really too bad.......
but then i have nothing to compare it to
 
new carb on, plugs sooty as cleaned them re fitted, good spark in dizzy crap spark on plugs, not even fire up no aaarhhgh going to check coil tomorrow was brand new plus ballast. hey ho eh
 

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loadamatic petronix in 289 distributor
 

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