y block inlet phelonic or not?

cudaboy

Member
i made a converter plate on my 272 allowing me to fit a 4 x barrel on 2 x barrel inlet, basically an aluminium plate and 1" phelonic spacer, i now have a propper inlet,i gave it a black flash once over and cleaned inlets up touch whats the concensus on using a phelonic spacer to redude heat transfer? inlet has water jacket im undecided.hoping to put it all together tomorrow.
 

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If the phenolic spacer isn't too tall to let the carburetor / air cleaner fit under the hood, I vote for using it. The inlet holes in the spacer should be the same diameter as on the carburetor and manifold or it can reduce performance slightly, may/may not be noticeable.
The spacers do help keep the carburetor from getting too hot and fuel from evaporating when recently parked. They also can help keep moving parts of the carburetor from catching on the intake manifold.

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many thanks, have bags of room as its on a truck, its an open 1" i cannot wait to get it all together, i swapped carbs over have air leak somwhere, weve had really bad rain here hoping for dry spell tomorrow!
 
There's probably a reason, or several opinions, on whether a 4 port or open spacer is better. I usually use a spacer with openings that match the intake manifold, it seems to make sense for smoother flow / reduced turbulence.
Other than that I don't know why.
 
An open one hole spacer may make low speed throttle response lazy. The four hole spacers can be bought almost anywhere. A four hole spacer will keep the velocity of the air higher, which is what you want for low RPM street use. Be careful to not over carb the 272.
 
spent few hours on today, new gaskets its same as was before wont rev up when dump throttle, close choke and itll rev perfectly, giving symptom of air leak but has all new gaskets. very odd.
 
An open one hole spacer may make low speed throttle response lazy. The four hole spacers can be bought almost anywhere. A four hole spacer will keep the velocity of the air higher, which is what you want for low RPM street use. Be careful to not over carb the 272.

Here's a calculator for sizing the carburetor.
It won't need to be any larger than approx. 350 or maybe 400 cfm. at the most.
https://www.summitracing.com/expertadviceandnews/calcsandtools/cfm-calculator


What is the casting number across the top rear of the old 2bbl intake manifold ?
... and the casting number on the engine block is... ??
The engine block number is next to the base of the distributor, or just above the oil filter.

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Ok, ECW-A on the intake, that looks like a '55 or '56 number for a car or truck with a 272 but it's not on this chart ..... at least it's not EBV.
http://www.y-block.info/casting/intake.html

Since you suspect a vacuum leak, even with new gaskets, it wouldn't hurt to rule out that the engine might accidentally have '54 heads. They have slightly different intake ports that won't seal to a '55+ intake manifold. Cylinder head ID location, 2 photos below.
http://ford-y-block.com/cylinderheadchart.htm
http://yblockguy.com/head_casting_numbers.htm


The engine block ID numbers are not the same as the other/above numbers,
and can be found next to the base of the distributor, or just above the oil filter.
The location of the block number is shown at these links.

http://ford-y-block.com/Block%20identification.htm
http://yblockguy.com/identify_y-block.htm
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thankyou for info i am suspecting carb as i tried same carb on original modified inlet and it doing same as it did on that
 
i did make note of head id, i cannot recall it to hand but it was 56, ta For location of block nos will take a look tomorrow
 
still same only runs with choke on, gave a spin goes ok, definatley no air leaks most strange
 

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still same only runs with choke on, gave a spin goes ok, definatley no air leaks most strange
The problem with an adaptor from 2 to 4 barrel carb is the motor is still breathing through the two small holes in the intake manifold . Find the square inch area of the manifold opening compare it with the area of the four openings of the carburetor ! Been there done that .




















find
 
Is there a "List" number on that carburetor? Is it 1848, 1849, or ??
The video of it running....
that was taken after you put the 4bbl intake manifold on the engine, right?
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yes 465 carb on propper four barrel inlet new gaskets all round. thats the video, i did initially fit the 465 carb on the original inlet and it running exaxtly same, ie not reving up when hard acceleration from idle, i am being sent larger squirter to try after that guessing 50cc acc pump.
 
It looks to me that you have plenty of pump shot, at least on the second pump. If it were lean I would expect a lean pop. How is the pump arm adjusted? Have you tried adding more timing on the crank? What kind of curve do you have with the dist. you have now?
 
Sounds like ignition timing being off to me from the video. Plus you have ported vacuum to what looks like the original Loadomatic '55 distributor, which is too much vacuum signal for that dist. Don't think that's the issue though. Sounds like not enough advance. Check the distributor diaphragm to see if it holds vacuum and moves the points breaker plate when vacuum is applied.

Sal
 
hello sorry delay, thankyou for input, been back onto guy who rebuilt carb,he suggested using vacuum on choke not one on metering block to connect to dizzy, its the larger bore externally threaded just to lft of choke
 

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