Fuel shut off valve

3.6rs

3.6rs

Well-known member
I intended to replace my fuel shut off valve this morning, but no luck ;
the new one I ordered from the supplier does not seem to be the same size as the one that was installed (not conic, not the same thread size -> does not fit).
See picures. The new one is on the left.
As far as I know there was only one available (Mac's).
Any suggestions are welcome.
 

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Two things are wrong ;
- leaking
- the part where the "turning piece" is bolted on is completely worn (not square anymore, but round)

Sorry for the poor explanation, but for some parts I don't know the correct English word.
 
Mac's does not have a good reputation here. Try buying from Snyder's, Bratton's, Mike's, or Bert's. Bert's has a large inventory of food original parts.
 
700rpm said:
Mac's does not have a good reputation here. Try buying from Snyder's, Bratton's, Mike's, or Bert's. Bert's has a large inventory of food original parts.
Click to expand...

I'm a Mac's customer for many, many years and never had any problems.
I also tried the other suppliers, but at check out the prices are most of the time higher then Mac's. That's because of the shipping prices. I beleive Mac's is (or was) shipping much more parts to EU then any other supplier. Don't forget that over here we have to pay 31% taxes and import duties on the total amount - this is parts AND shipping amount.
And the delivery time from Mac's is unbeatable I think.
Last order : ordered last week friday evening (EU time) 8PM, received the parts this monday morning at 10.30AM (EU time). And there is a weekend in between! That's also part of the fun.
It's even impossible to have parts that quick from any EU country.
 
It looks to me that the replacement part is a machine thread where it is suppose to be a pipe thread. Do you have a ¼pipe die? You may just be able to retrace the thread and make it work. Also, be sure to pipe tape the threads when installing it.

J.C.
 
Looking at your photos, I'm not convinced you are correct. It looks fine to me, from what I see. Try it again it might just be a tight start on the threads.
 
3.6rs said:
I'm a Mac's customer for many, many years and never had any problems.
I also tried the other suppliers, but at check out the prices are most of the time higher then Mac's. That's because of the shipping prices. I beleive Mac's is (or was) shipping much more parts to EU then any other supplier. Don't forget that over here we have to pay 31% taxes and import duties on the total amount - this is parts AND shipping amount.
And the delivery time from Mac's is unbeatable I think.
Last order : ordered last week friday evening (EU time) 8PM, received the parts this monday morning at 10.30AM (EU time). And there is a weekend in between! That's also part of the fun.
It's even impossible to have parts that quick from any EU country.
Click to expand...

Sir, in your original post you asked for suggestions. I gave you mine. If you were looking for an argument, you should have said so, and I would have given you that instead.

What good does it do you to get a cheap part quckly if it doesn't work? :confused:


"There is hardly anything in the world that someone cannot make a little worse and sell a little cheaper, and the people who consider price alone are that person’s lawful prey. It’s unwise to pay too much, but it’s worse to pay too little. When you pay too much, you lose a little money — that is all. When you pay too little, you sometimes lose everything, because the thing you bought was incapable of doing the thing it was bought to do. The common law of business balance prohibits paying a little and getting a lot — it can’t be done. If you deal with the lowest bidder, it is well to add something for the risk you run, and if you do that you will have enough to pay for something better.” -John Ruskin
 
I can't say for sure, but those threads do look different to me. Is is possible that they were different on the European manufactured cars? Do you know where yours was built?

One other thought, could you use parts from the new one to rebuild the original one? I know how expensive it can be to ship overseas... It might be worth a try.

Good luck,

Ken
 
700rpm said:
Sir, in your original post you asked for suggestions. I gave you mine. If you were looking for an argument, you should have said so, and I would have given you that instead.

What good does it do you to get a cheap part quckly if it doesn't work? :confused:


"There is hardly anything in the world that someone cannot make a little worse and sell a little cheaper, and the people who consider price alone are that person’s lawful prey. It’s unwise to pay too much, but it’s worse to pay too little. When you pay too much, you lose a little money — that is all. When you pay too little, you sometimes lose everything, because the thing you bought was incapable of doing the thing it was bought to do. The common law of business balance prohibits paying a little and getting a lot — it can’t be done. If you deal with the lowest bidder, it is well to add something for the risk you run, and if you do that you will have enough to pay for something better.” -John Ruskin
Click to expand...

Was I looking for the cheapest part ? No. I was looking for the cheapest total amount of all the parts I needed, including shipping.( see above). I'm sorry but English is not my language, and maybe I did not explain myself clearly, or ...

FYI : Price of Fuel shut off valve :
Mac's : $38.49
Snyders : $29.95
But all of the parts including the shipping cost : Mac's the cheapest.
 
KGBnut said:
I can't say for sure, but those threads do look different to me. Is is possible that they were different on the European manufactured cars? Do you know where yours was built?

One other thought, could you use parts from the new one to rebuild the original one? I know how expensive it can be to ship overseas... It might be worth a try.

Good luck,

Ken
Click to expand...

The threads are definitifly not the same. Maybe difficult to see in the pictures, but they aren't.
My car was originally sold new in Belgium in 1930(so not a second hand import) but I'm not sure if it was built in EU or in US and sent over as a new car.
 
Bert's has a good valve for $34. They will charge you only their actual cost for shipping, no mark up on that cost. I am not affiliated with Bert's, I am just trying to give good advice.
 
I would say contact Macs and see what they say. I've bought lots from them and they are quick to rectify any problems I've had.
 
I bought a few valves a while back and ran into a question on threads also. These were common ball valves, not Model A valves. I'm used to seeing "NPT" for our pipe fittings, but the valves I bought were "BPT", so I asked a friend that deals in plumbing. I asked him if it meant "British pipe thread"? He wasn't familure with it either buy thought that's what it stood for. I Googled it and found out that's what it meant, and even though it worked, the thread is a little different.

Mac's part looks like a shorter thread that starts with a larger diameter. In other words, it might be the same pipe thread, but minus the smaller starting threads.

I'd try running a die over it, but next time I'd buy from another Model A parts seller.
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
...

Mac's part looks like a shorter thread that starts with a larger diameter. In other words, it might be the same pipe thread, but minus the smaller starting threads...
Click to expand...

That's what I'm going to try tomorrow.
Als0 as "DaWizard" said ...Do you have a ¼pipe die? You may just be able to retrace the thread and make it work....
 
36rs: "I'm sorry but English is not my language, and maybe I did not explain myself clearly, or ..."
_______________________________

O.K. - Try using Flemish, oder Wallon.

My wife was from Ypres, so I know how challenging language can be. I am surprised to see you write that your Model A is a native of Belgium. Extremely rare to have survived WW11. You do have a very unique Ford Model A.

Your car most likely was built (assembled) in Germany. On FORD BARN Forum we have BRAD from Germany (now in the U.S.) who may be able to shed some light on the problem. He may see this thread and respond, or you could look him up and email him. He is quite familiar with European Ford Model A's.
 
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DougVieyra said:
36rs: "I'm sorry but English is not my language, and maybe I did not explain myself clearly, or ..."
_______________________________

O.K. - Try using Flemish, oder Wallon.

My wife was from Ypres, so I know how challenging language can be. I am surprised to see you write that your Model A is a native of Belgium. Extremely rare to have survived WW11. You do have a very unique Ford Model A.

...
Click to expand...

This will be Flemish then (the language that your wife spoke?)
My Ford unique ? I don't know. But have most of the history of the car.
(And the engine is not an AF, but an A)
 
The Ford Motor Company had no factories making or assembling the Model A in Belgium at any time. England, France and Germany were the countries that handled all manufacturing/assembling of Model A cars & trucks for all of Europe. The bulk of overseas chassis and bodies were sent from the U.S (and Canada) to countries around the world. Once in the over-seas country the cars (and trucks) were assembled and otherwise 'built' to fit the unique features, characteristics and government mandates, and in some cases, custom body builders (especially Germany).

As Belgium sits (fortunately or unfortunately) between France, Germany and England, the Belgium Model A's could have come from any of those 3 countries. I suspect that taxes and government requirements had a lot to do with which neighboring country the Model A came from. But while a Belgian "Dealer" may have had some influence as to the final form that the Model A took, there were no Ford Plants in Belgium.

Much later, in modern times, Ford did build a Ford Plant in Belgium, to build cars for the European market. However, in 2014, Ford closed the Genk assembly plant in Belgium.
 
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