31 AA - Gas Valve Rebuild Kit?

RustyWiring

RustyWiring

Member
Hi everyone.

Now that Al is tucked away for the winter months, I have a few little things to finish up. The shut-off valve, located on the indented firewall, leaks out the end of the tube. Not much, but...

Can someone please confirm that the rebuild kit, shown below, will work for this late '31 style valve?

Thank you!
 

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I was able to get a reply from Snyder's: I need to verify if my current valve is original or repro. The kit works with original.
 
Looks right to me. You have a new seal and capsule of grease for the seal and tapered valve. Once I took mine apart and lapped the valve and lubed it, the handle has been very easy to turn for the past 20 years. I'm sure using good gas without corn has help it remain in good shape also.
 
Speaking of shut off valves,my 35 year old brass valve on my 29 works in reverse,good theft deterrent.
 
I drained the tank in order to disassemble the valve. A descent amount of crud in the gas. The tank had been cleaned and sealed by the prior owner but I guess that doesn't mean it's perfect.

Anyway, I got the valve apart, replaced the o-ring (it's a repro valve) and cleaned out the cylinder. Still leaked.

So, time to replace it.

By the way, any ideas on what more I can do to repair the leaky valve once it's off?
 
RustyWiring said:
I drained the tank in order to disassemble the valve. A descent amount of crud in the gas. The tank had been cleaned and sealed by the prior owner but I guess that doesn't mean it's perfect.

Anyway, I got the valve apart, replaced the o-ring (it's a repro valve) and cleaned out the cylinder. Still leaked.

So, time to replace it.

By the way, any ideas on what more I can do to repair the leaky valve once it's off?
Click to expand...

As Bill said, be sure to use the pencil filter in the top of the valve. I lapped mine with toothpaste and it sealed great. I may have also spun it in my lathe and used a touch of emery paper on it first. I used a new piece of graphite string and grease to seal the handle. Tighten the packing nut enough to stop any gas leak and yet leave the handle easy to turn.
 
Thanks Tom and Bill - maybe I could tighten the packing nut a bit more.

I'm not familiar with the pencil filter. There is not one present now. However, the (Zenith) carb inlet has a pencil-like filter.
 
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Don't know if my late 31 {on firewall under the hood] is original or repro. When the handle points to front of car valve is closed when it points to the passenger side valve is open.Is that an indication as to which it is ?
 
John, that is how mine is, too. However, I don't know if it indicates original or repro. I'm guessing that external appearance is indeterminate and only the 'guts' provide the indication.
 
The "pencil" filter has been discussed before, available from the suppliers & keeps rust flakes, etc, from plugging up or scoring the insides of the valve.
I know Guys that have RUST flakes in their tanks, but with that filter, they NEVER go PFFFT & conk out!
They DON'T impede the flow, with 1/2 tank of gas in Minerva, I had a 6" stream of gas @ the carb end of the gas line!
Bill W.
 
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