Electrolytic Derusting - new thread

L

Larry Seemann

Senior Member
I thought I would start a new thread since the old one was getting kind of long. I was away over New Year's and there were some questions asked but then got overrun by new posts and it just seemed easier to start over.
This is an article I wrote for our club newsletter 10 years ago that explains it pretty well: http://www.icehouse.net/overland/derusting.html
Note: the container in the picture is a 100 gallon composite (non-metallic) livestock watering tank. I do fenders, hoods, etc. all the time.
Let me know if you have any questions.
 
Good link Larry, but there is one thing that concerns me. You said "Stainless steel may be best because the anode gets consumed in the process and stainless will last longer." I have read that stainless is NOT good to use because of the chromium content of the alloy. As the anode is consumed, the chromium salts end up in the water and then the water is contaminated and not easily disposed of. Better to use re-rod or carbon rod.
 
That's probably right - better to use steel, iron, or carbon. Thanks for adding that info. People have already done enough damage to the planet. Something that works quite well is an old, broken or otherwise unusable, cast iron exhaust manifold. It's dense and lasts a long time.
 
I just used this process recently and am very happy to have found the thread here...it is very useful, especially on items as wire wheels........thanks for all the information on fordbarn, makes bring this old stuff back to life a lot easier.....Pat
 
Larry Seemann said:
I thought I would start a new thread since the old one was getting kind of long. I was away over New Year's and there were some questions asked but then got overrun by new posts and it just seemed easier to start over.
This is an article I wrote for our club newsletter 10 years ago that explains it pretty well: http://www.icehouse.net/overland/derusting.html
Note: the container in the picture is a 100 gallon composite (non-metallic) livestock watering tank. I do fenders, hoods, etc. all the time.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Click to expand...

Using this process on a rear fender bracket has worked out fairly well with rust and painted surfaces but NOT undercoating.

I had expectations that the process would lift the undercoating off but this isn't so. It was softened but it did not come off like paint and required scraping with a putty knife.

Luckily very few pieces I need to work on have this problem.

Just my $0.02.
 
All acids add some hydrogen to the metal structure, thus weakening the steel by hydrogen embrittlement...
 
Cool Hand Lurker said:
Good link Larry, but there is one thing that concerns me. You said "Stainless steel may be best because the anode gets consumed in the process and stainless will last longer." I have read that stainless is NOT good to use because of the chromium content of the alloy. As the anode is consumed, the chromium salts end up in the water and then the water is contaminated and not easily disposed of. Better to use re-rod or carbon rod.
Click to expand...

Couldn't this be used as a beginning solution for Chrome plating? IIRC, Doesn't chrome plating begin with that "Demonic" substance, Chromic acid? IF the chrome is already in solution aren't you halfway to home?
All you would need is a an old bumper for an Anode/electrode. Or am I wallowing in fantasy again?
Terry
 
Over the last week I tried it with a small 12 V Batt charger, a 12v battery, an 18gal. plastic storage bin. It seems to be an overnight process. And it helps to remove as much loose crud off the part as you can. It strikes me that any undercoat may act as an insulator. I don't know for sure, but I think it might. I could see it working on the clean side and not working where there is undercoating present.
Terry


thebanjoman said:
Using this process on a rear fender bracket has worked out fairly well with rust and painted surfaces but NOT undercoating.

I had expectations that the process would lift the undercoating off but this isn't so. It was softened but it did not come off like paint and required scraping with a putty knife.

Luckily very few pieces I need to work on have this problem.

Just my $0.02.
Click to expand...
 
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