11" clutch with a 3 speed?

No heaviness issues with the 11 inch clutch and pressure plate I've had on my F1 for the past 43 years. They don't wear out ...
 
Yes, you can run a 11" clutch with the 1/2 ton truck - most of us would probably not do it due to the excessive weight of the rotating assembly and either having to put a special 'truck pan' on the engine (so we can pull the clutch without pulling the pan) - or we just have to pull the pan.

In a light car, you will probably like having the 10" setup - with less rotating weight, it will rev up a bit nicer and is a better fit for the type of transmission and weight of the vehicle.

Any competent machine shop should be able to redrill and resurface the flywheel. It should be setup for 'shoulder bolts' - where the smooth upper portion of the bolt goes down into the flywheel (non threaded top portion of the hole).

If it was mine, I'd have the flywheel and pressure plate each neutral balanced - and then validated/checked as a balanced pair. Having a nice smooth engine sure makes my day!
 
I will try another machine shop. It sure doesn't sound like a big project. I do have one more block I can look at . It was badly cracked and I used it in my 'block wall'. This is a retaining wall I built to contain fill used on the back side of my shop's foundation. The engine blocks stacked nicely and the V8 is near the top but flywheel side towards the gravel fill. I can pluck it out with my skidsteer later this morning and turn it around to see if I can use it's flywheel. If it's drilled right our local napa store can resurface it.
 
Gary
Here is a way you can do it at home.
Bruce
 

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I had an 11" clutch on my '37 pickup. It was indestructible. Never noticed any heaviness in operation, just that it refused to wear out.
 
Geekers, you guys are are having me go back and forth. Am I gonna have to go get my 5lb sack of flour on a lever and see how stiff an 11" clutch is? I have to decide by 5am tomorrow when we catch the early morning ferry! :)
 
Too chicken to try doing it myself for the woodie. If it were my big trucks I have made everything from driveshafts to front hub conversions using the vehicle as my lathe. Not to mention the teflon buttons I made with a router jig for positioning the wrist pins in my tonner panel. With the woodie I hope to create a vehicle I can count on for (almost) worry free road trips and excursions to the mainland. I have coordinated with a machine shop that has a tree outside their gate where I will drop off the flywheel and the old 10" pressure plate as I pass by at 8:30 on a Sunday morning. They will resurface it after they redrill it. I know the owner and he runs a large fab shop building specialized truck bodies for municipalities and they have a machine shop. The owner restores military vehicles as a hobby and is extremely good at it. Says it's no problem. Now back to other woodie decisions.
 
Talked to the guy in the machine shop today. He's gonna redrill it with the same type counterbored holes for the cap screws that I included. He said my local NAPA store is better equipped to surface it after I get it back. Was a tough decision, but YAY! I have a good 11" clutch now for my tonner pickup project. After I complete the woodie I plan to make a nice jailbar tonner pickup from the two that I have. This will be a hard working, lumber hauling daily driver so it will need the 11 incher!
 

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Were the "cap screws" you dropped off specifically for the pressure plate? They're different than plain old hardware store bolts, even if they are Gr 8.
 

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Somewhere along the line, I picked up a Weber 10.5" clutch and pressure plate. According to my research, it has heavier springs than a stock Ford 10.5" set-up. Has anyone used this Weber stuff before? Came as a package deal with a Weber flywheel a got.
 
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Were the "cap screws" you dropped off specifically for the pressure plate? They're different than plain old hardware store bolts, even if they are Gr 8.

Not sure... They are on the mainland now in the flywheel. The engine the flywheel came from had a ford reconditioner tag and the vehicle it came from, my tonner panel was last licensed in '66. The clutch bolts held up in what looked like severe service at a mining operation. The truck had broken leaves in 3 outa 4 spring packs and the rear axle housing was busted in two. The woodie will be babied compared to that. Machinist said he would copy the old holes so If need be I can get the right bolts. Maybe when I order my clutch I can get the bolts with it. Where should I get the clutch?
 

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I have seen longer clutch pivot arms with the bigger arc in them ,perhaps these were big truck with the 11" clutch pack. The longer arm means more travel but a lighter feel pedal for the big clutch.
Fitting an 11" into a pickup with the short arm will mean a heavy pedal.
 
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