Retorque head bolts

A

aermotor

Well-known member
How is this accomplished? If you reach a torque of 55 lbs., do you back off and come back up to 55 or leave it? In other words, how do I know that it isn't over torqued for some reason? The "re" part confuses me.

John
 
DON'T back them off.
My reasoning: If the gasket is first "squished" then "unsquished" then "squished" again, this CAN'T be a GOOD thing!
Bill W.
 
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It just means after running it that you should go back and make sure they are all still 55ft lbs. Re-torque just means check them again.
 
Just go through the motions of torqueing the head again and again and maybe again! You can't torque a model A head too much.
Terry
 
Also be sure to retorqued after any overheat. My 28 had some junk in the cooling chamber and went through a few bad overheats before I got all the junk out, and I found some of the nuts quite loose after each overheat.
 
The link that Gary WA provided makes a lot of sense, being new to Model A's I have no clue as to what a Brumfield head is. Does this procedure look good for a standard head?

John
 
aermotor said:
The link that Gary WA provided makes a lot of sense, being new to Model A's I have no clue as to what a Brumfield head is. Does this procedure look good for a standard head?

John
Click to expand...

Larry Brumfield made high compression heads before stopping production about 8 years ago. Hopefully he'll make some more.

Follow his head torque directions, and you can't go wrong.:)
 
I have a Brum B-F 5.9 head and was not aware/ why to back off the nuts as stated via the FORD Garage. Can't we just check them to see if they click @ 55#?
 
You want your motor to get up to operating temp, then let it cool completely overnight. Then before you fire it up, torque each of the bolts in sequence. It took me 6 times before the head would hold torque. I occasionally check them and they will still need a little tightening from time to time. This is due to heat-cycling and the expansion/contraction of the molecules in the iron.
 
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