How to neutralize mig acids before leading

B

Bruce/CT

Well-known member
Hi,

I am certain that this has been discussed here but before I do it wrong I thought that I'd better ask. I couldn't find the answer in a search.

How do I best neutralize MIG acids before I lead over my work? Is washing with Metal Prep solution the way to go?
Thanks in advance,
Bruce/CT
 
Hi Flathead Ted,
Yes... what should I use to clean the weld area after welding and before lead filling. Sorry if I was unclear.
Bruce/CT
 
Don't worry about neutralizing the residual flux. Grind as much as necessary to get to clean metal followed by rotary wire brushing if necessary. Of course grit blasting is another option.
The acid/tinning process will tell you where you need further cleaning.
 
Last edited:
Bruce/CT said:
Hi,

I am certain that this has been discussed here but before I do it wrong I thought that I'd better ask. I couldn't find the answer in a search.

How do I best neutralize MIG acids before I lead over my work? Is washing with Metal Prep solution the way to go?
Thanks in advance,
Bruce/CT
Click to expand...

What MIG acids? I thought the wire was steel. You using flux core MIG wire? I don't think that is a very good choice myself if you are.
 
As said above, the tinning step will take care of anything impure and won't stick where there are problems. AFTER the lead is applied, thorough cleaning of the tinning flux acid is critical to the paint adhering properly.
I hammer welded about 10" all around my avatar roadster and metal finished it on both sides. I did use a little bit of lead in a few places and was surprised how easy it was.
As with any lead product follow ALL precautions, set up a fan to keep from breathing fumes while working the lead and wear a respirator also when filing/sanding the lead.
 
The MIG process (GMAW) should produce no acids since there is no flux. If you are flux core arc welding then it depends on what type of wire you are using and whether you are using a shield gas with it. There are a lot of different wires available. the main thing is that you get all the slag residue off of the weld. The flux used for tin/leading will generally overpower anything that is on the surface as long as the weld was dressed down and all flux/slag residue was removed.

I miss the old Dutch Boy mercury based flux. Tin/lead body solder worked really well with that stuff but you had to take precautions not to poison yourself during the process. The zinc chloride based stuff isn't as good but it also has to be used with care and it does work. Cleaning the residue of that stuff off is important to good paint adhesion. More so than the welding flux for sure.
 
I used a scotchbrite pad with a strong base solution to neutralize any acid left over and rinsed with water and dried. Whatever etch you use as normal after finishing the lead work before paint.
 
I use 'Fluxite' flux; this is a paste and non corrosive/toxic.Clean it off with prepsol afterward. Too easy.
 
You can use soap & water on straight zinc chloride since it is basically an oxidizer. An ammonia solution will also neutralize if there are any acids in with the zinc chloride flux. Prep Sol will work on non acidic chlorides but it won't do much for acidic properties. Water will flush away acidic components too but it will need to be mechanically wiped during the process.
 
Bruce,
I think the important thing is to neutralize the area after leading, as the tinning flux is what really needs to be neutralized.
 
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