I successfully started the coupe yesterday after spending hours on electrical shorts and fuel leaks in the carb just to burn out the throwout bearing driving around the block (I am guessing). I have no idea what happened or the cause. I am really quite devastated to say the least. It started to smoke about a block away from the house and when I got back home I took the cover off and it was toasted. Any ideas on what went wrong and can I replace it without pulling everything? This being my first Model A I am really at a loss here.
First Drive and Burned Up Throwout Bearing/Help!
- Thread starter RyanB
- Start date
SeaSlugs
Well-known member
Wow well only 5 things happened:
Defective part
debris in bearing causing it to lock up
vehicle sat a long time and bearing froze up
Not adjusted correctly so it was engauged all the time (should spin only when pedal is depressed and the pedal should have 1" fo free play before the bearing touches the fingers)
or no grease
The bolded statements i feel are most likely. With no grease it should last longer than a block. It could be likely thats why it was parked years ago was because of said bearing.
Only way to get to it is remove the engine or remove the rearend then the trans.
My vote is engine leaving the trans attached. While your in there check/replace the clutch disc and piolit bearing. Might get a replacement pressure plate as you may have worn/burnt up the fingers.
Defective part
debris in bearing causing it to lock up
vehicle sat a long time and bearing froze up
Not adjusted correctly so it was engauged all the time (should spin only when pedal is depressed and the pedal should have 1" fo free play before the bearing touches the fingers)
or no grease
The bolded statements i feel are most likely. With no grease it should last longer than a block. It could be likely thats why it was parked years ago was because of said bearing.
Only way to get to it is remove the engine or remove the rearend then the trans.
My vote is engine leaving the trans attached. While your in there check/replace the clutch disc and piolit bearing. Might get a replacement pressure plate as you may have worn/burnt up the fingers.
SeaSlugs
Well-known member
So you put grease thru the zerk in the pic? Did you see grease just start to squeeze out of the throwout bearing?
Was everything 100% clean once assembled? May have had gunk trapped somewhere and when you pumped grease in it forced debris into the bearing.
If you drop the rearend be very very careful of the rear spring. If you go that way then you have a big greasy mess of the U joint clamshell and gotta lay under a car only supported by jackstands to remove the trans.
To me its safer to remove the engine, leave the trans, then remove the return spring and slide off the throwout bearing retainer. Then you can do whatever work you need to do on the workbench or sitting in a stool while the car has all 4 tires on the ground.
Like i said it got hot from the pressure plate fingers sliding on the bearing instead of rotating the bearing so you may need to replace the pressure plate.
Was everything 100% clean once assembled? May have had gunk trapped somewhere and when you pumped grease in it forced debris into the bearing.
If you drop the rearend be very very careful of the rear spring. If you go that way then you have a big greasy mess of the U joint clamshell and gotta lay under a car only supported by jackstands to remove the trans.
To me its safer to remove the engine, leave the trans, then remove the return spring and slide off the throwout bearing retainer. Then you can do whatever work you need to do on the workbench or sitting in a stool while the car has all 4 tires on the ground.
Like i said it got hot from the pressure plate fingers sliding on the bearing instead of rotating the bearing so you may need to replace the pressure plate.
Bill in NJ
Well-known member
I think Mitch is right !
Mitch,
I did have it the other way as that is the way it was drawn in the MACS Auto diagram. I will switch it if you think that is the way it should go. I will start to pull the rear this week and will order a new Federal Mogul bearing. I think the one that I put in to start with was a cheaper one. A real pain in the butt but all of these issues are really helping me learn the ins and outs of the car. Trying to stay positive.
I did have it the other way as that is the way it was drawn in the MACS Auto diagram. I will switch it if you think that is the way it should go. I will start to pull the rear this week and will order a new Federal Mogul bearing. I think the one that I put in to start with was a cheaper one. A real pain in the butt but all of these issues are really helping me learn the ins and outs of the car. Trying to stay positive.
Big hammer
Well-known member
I blew up the picture and I agree with Mitch, it was install backwords :-( Sense your happy with your engine install, I would suggest you go at from the rear. Maybe you will find things wrong and fix them! Watch out for the spring, many threads on the Barn about the spring!
SeaSlugs
Well-known member
D'oh! yea I missed that and agree - does look like its backwards. Throwout bearings (aka thrust bearings) tend to only work one way.
Terry NJ
Well-known member
I don't like pulling engines to get at a transmission. I replaced a clutch in my coupe and I wasn't bad at all, you just have to not mind working under the car. I know that's a deal breaker for some. I also have a backhoe to lift the rear with which takes a lot of the effort out of it. I found it easier to disconnect the frame at the spring and whatever else is necessary roll it back out of the way. Then it was clear sailing, just unbolt what needs to be unbolted and clean the parts thoroughly, regrease and reassemble in reverse order. Don't forget to have the new gaskets ready. A good time to check the drive shaft bearing too.
Terry
Terry
Terry,
Great advice. I will definitely take that route. I just finished up the engine and have everything hooked up perfectly and don't want to mess with it and I really don't mind working under the car. I just ordered new gaskets and bearing from Mikes and Brattons so I should be in good shape. Mike at Mikes laughed when I asked him about the direction of the bearing. He has some really good bearings in stock so I should be set. A very good lesson learned. Thanks everyone.
Great advice. I will definitely take that route. I just finished up the engine and have everything hooked up perfectly and don't want to mess with it and I really don't mind working under the car. I just ordered new gaskets and bearing from Mikes and Brattons so I should be in good shape. Mike at Mikes laughed when I asked him about the direction of the bearing. He has some really good bearings in stock so I should be set. A very good lesson learned. Thanks everyone.