Replacing flattie w/SBF

jr-41ford said:
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Nice looking car. Nothing looks better, in my eyes than a dressed flat motor (except for a dressed Y-Block :cool:). I vote for keeping the flatty. I don't much care for the AN fitting tho, takes away from the 'Retro look'.

On a side note, I know a Y-Block fits. I had a 292 in a '38. Had to use the T-Bird pan, rear sump.
 
Blucar and Y-Blcokhead, have never had a reliability problem with the flattie in the 41 Ford. I've put over 22K clicks on the car, it's getting close for a rebuild. It does have less oil pressure now and blows a little more oil out the breather hole in the oil pan. I put hi-press Melling oil pump in it a few years ago, but I'm positive the cam bearings are worn out.

I still cruise the car 60-70 mph without any issues and never any cooling issues, it's timed right, thermostats, correct coolant mixture, and clean cooling systems.

It just spits about a quart of oil every 250 miles from the breather hole. It's always been very reliable.

I'm considering all my options, rebuilding the flattie and putting it back in is the first option. Second option is installing a SBF w/C4, like not shifting these days. If the flattie is removed, it will be rebuilt and used in another car.

Have no interest in installing an over drive unit on the 41 Ford. I hope install a Mitchell OD unit on the 28 Model A, in about a year. Just bought that one in April, which replaced another Model A. Been driving the wheels off of it. In the spring, will be painting the fenders, then if I have time, will paint the body.

I also have a stock 67 F100, that I want to paint this fall. It will not take much to paint, except I am getting rid of the in-cab gas tank and will use the saddle as the primary. I am going to cut in a gas door for the filler tube.

Anyways, appreciate the information. I will do some more research and make my final decision after the first of the year.

Thank you,

JR
 
Y-Blockhead said:
One last option, then I'll shut up. Speedway Motors has a C-4 to Flathead Adapter if you want an auto. But then you would have to convert to a open drive line.
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Got my new Speedway catalog Friday. That conversion is for the 49-53 flattie.

Flat-O-Matic, in Oregon, makes an adapter for the early and late model flatheads. Both require open drive shaft.

http://www.flat-o.com/carproducts/flatomatic.htm

I'm still going to sleep on until around the middle of January and decide which way to go.

Thanks again,

JR
 
Forgot about this thread.

Just to update, in February of this year, the flattie put 5 holes in the oil pan, broke every piston skirt, broke the front two piston rods, twisted on like a wrought iron fence, while driving 70 mph on the freeway.

I had picked up a really nice late 24 stud flattie from club member for free in November, was planning on swapping the two motors in April before it let go. It's in now and runs real sweet, will swap the heads during the winter.

I got the Ford towed home, then was trying to figure out how to get it into the shop. Moved the Model A out, got in the 41 Ford, it fired right up and was running rough, gave it some gas and it smoothed right out and drove it into the shop.

I gave the old block and crank away, they were still good.
 
The early 289 had 2 different bell housing bolt patterns as mentioned before. a 5 bolt and a 6 bolt. if you go with an early 289, make sure the adapter you buy is the right one for the eng. you have, which ever that may be.
 
On the sbf, they are really long for a compact engine. There is a shorter (expensive) water pump you can get. Although my "29" is a rod I built, the 260 with no fan and the hub about 1 1/2" from the radiator would still be a darn tight fit anywhere else.
On adapters, doesn't Trans-go make a 3 piece that you can pretty much mate any engine to any transmission?
I've got a T5 behind a 260 in my rpu and and love it. Even with twin carbs I can get high 20s for mpg on the road. 30 inch tires and 3.50 gear.
 
willowbilly3 said:
On the sbf, they are really long for a compact engine. There is a shorter (expensive) water pump you can get. Although my "29" is a rod I built, the 260 with no fan and the hub about 1 1/2" from the radiator would still be a darn tight fit anywhere else.
On adapters, doesn't Trans-go make a 3 piece that you can pretty much mate any engine to any transmission?
I've got a T5 behind a 260 in my rpu and and love it. Even with twin carbs I can get high 20s for mpg on the road. 30 inch tires and 3.50 gear.
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Expensive short water pump ? NAH! Just like Chevys Ford also had a short and a long pump stock. Read post #5

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/sbf-short-water-pump-pulleys.303600/ First two pictures are 1970 and later long pump the last picture is a 1965-69 short pump both in a 1954 Ford sedan with a 302.
 
That's great to know, if I ever decide to update the engine in one of the fat fendered Fords. I'd like to keep it all Ford and it's about time someone made a decent adapter kit for mating SBFs up to the old Ford drivetrains.

It will be a 6 to 12 months before my new shop is built, sold the house with shop and lift, and have to be out of here by the 13th. I'm glad I got the old flathead replaced before my back surgery and sold my house.

Thanks everyone for the information and links. Will be putting the link and info in next weeks car club meeting minutes. I am the secretary for a large car club and send out a weekly email that contains the meeting minutes. We meet weekly, over 200 members and more than 425 cars. The club is very active.
 
JeffB2 said:
Expensive short water pump ? NAH! Just like Chevys Ford also had a short and a long pump stock. Read post #5

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/sbf-short-water-pump-pulleys.303600/ First two pictures are 1970 and later long pump the last picture is a 1965-69 short pump both in a 1954 Ford sedan with a 302.
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The short pump is 5.42 inches and the long pump is 5.70 according to that read so you gain .28 or a little over 1/4 inch at the hub flange? Hardly any gain at all it seems. I'm a little confused how that ended up being 3-4 inches more clearance.
 
willowbilly3 said:
The short pump is 5.42 inches and the long pump is 5.70 according to that read so you gain .28 or a little over 1/4 inch at the hub flange? Hardly any gain at all it seems. I'm a little confused how that ended up being 3-4 inches more clearance.
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As I recall '64 and earlier pumps were significantly shorter but don't have the specs at hand. I know the early timing cover is needed for the early pump.
 
40 Deluxe said:
As I recall '64 and earlier pumps were significantly shorter but don't have the specs at hand. I know the early timing cover is needed for the early pump.
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I'm running a 63 engine and yes, it's a different cover and no tin plate behind the pump. Dam near drove me crazy because I had the engine apart for a while and couldn't find it when I went back together,lol. My 63 has the oil fill in the timing cover but the 64 engine I have has the oil fill in the valve cover.
 
willowbilly3 said:
The short pump is 5.42 inches and the long pump is 5.70 according to that read so you gain .28 or a little over 1/4 inch at the hub flange? Hardly any gain at all it seems. I'm a little confused how that ended up being 3-4 inches more clearance.
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You are not taking into account the shorter height of the earlier balancer ,I have helped a lot of guys with 302/5.0 swaps in 1952-56 Fords in my HAMB 1952-59 Group this has worked on many occasions as well as a guy I helped on facebook last month.;) You learn something new every day.
 
I installed a 302 in my '41 using a Trans dapt adapter against the stock 3 sp. Used it for about 3 yrs until I changed to a C-4. Got from Speedway but they no longer carry it. Had no problems with operation. The 302 fit without any mods, used a stock truck long water pump. Fit was close but fit.Changed to rear sump and it cleared the X member. Have to have 6 bolt bell engine, '65 or newer I believe. Exhaust manifold on D.S. can be changed to different dump to clear steering box(vans & truck). P.S. exhaust is a shoe-in. Had to shorten one shifting lever on the column to clear valve cover. Later changed to C-4 and motor mount holes were 1/2 hole off from the 3 sp set-up. Actually it's a fairly easy swap just watch your clearances
 
jr-41ford said:
That's great to know, if I ever decide to update the engine in one of the fat fendered Fords. I'd like to keep it all Ford and it's about time someone made a decent adapter kit for mating SBFs up to the old Ford drivetrains.

It will be a 6 to 12 months before my new shop is built, sold the house with shop and lift, and have to be out of here by the 13th. I'm glad I got the old flathead replaced before my back surgery and sold my house.

Thanks everyone for the information and links. Will be putting the link and info in next weeks car club meeting minutes. I am the secretary for a large car club and send out a weekly email that contains the meeting minutes. We meet weekly, over 200 members and more than 425 cars. The club is very active.
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Working on a '41, a Model A, putting out a weekly newsletter, moving to a new house/garage, had back surgery, I assume you have a family....You don't sleep much do you!? Keep up the good work.
 
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