Snapped-off Oil Pan Bolt

kpfoleyjr

New member
While trying to replace the engine splash pan on the passenger side of the engine compartment, I snapped off one of the oil pan mounting bolts that is also used to hold the splash pan in place. It's for the front bolt on the splash pan, located right underneath the oil return pipe.

Any thoughts on how to get the broken piece out of the engine block? There's not enough of the bolt sticking out to grab onto with a pair of vise grips. I haven't removed the oil return pipe yet to see if that would help to access to the broken bolt.

Nothing seems to be leaking as a result of the broken mounting bolt, but I would like to remount the engine splash pan.

Thanks,
Ken
 
Easy out? Available at most any hardware store.
 

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Is the bolt shaft sticking out from the top side? I broke off a bolt in the flywheel while installing the pressure plate. I tried a flat screw driver and it came out.
I also thought of trying a reverse twist drill.
Bob
 
If nothing is sticking out to grab and you can't tap it around with an awl / hammer, then I use reverse drill bits. Usually they will spin the broken bolt out.. If not then after drilling a easy out should easily remove it...
Don't use the torque spec in the les book... It's to much....use common sense,
 
yea ive had more luck with left handed drill bits than easyouts...

sometimes you can use an engraver to make a dimple off center and vibrate the broken nub out going counter clockwise - that was usually step one before drilling. Even if you vibrate it out enough to get pliers on is way easier than drilling.
 
Guys - I got it out . . . I'm kind of new to this forum, and I should have looked back for a similar problem first . . . thought of that after I posted.

I searched and found a post from 2010 on a broken oil pan bolt, and found an excellent suggestion: Since the bolt was not rusted in place, I put a couple of nuts and washers inside a 1/2" socket, then placed the broken-off head of the bolt (there were some threads remaining on the head, and it was a jagged break) in the end of the socket and mated it up to the broken part in the block. I was able to back the broken piece out somewhat, then got it the rest of the way with the eraser end of a new pencil, and finally got my fingers on it. Time for a celebratory beer.

Thanks though, very much, for all of your replies.
 
make sure you run a die in the hold before you put in a new bolt just to make sure no threads got messed up...
 
When I have come across broken pan bolts in the past, I used a mini pair of end nippers like these and was able to get a bite on them and easily remove the broken bolt. It may not work ever time, but I have used them a couple of times in the past and they did work for me. I'd first spray some penetrating oil or such on the broken bolt before trying to twist it out. Just butt the head up snugly against the remaining thread and them put some pressure with a tug as you unscrew the broken bolt.

A cheap and handy tool from Harbor Freight in my opinion.
 

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Guys - I got it out . . . I'm kind of new to this forum, and I should have looked back for a similar problem first . . . thought of that after I posted.

I searched and found a post from 2010 on a broken oil pan bolt, and found an excellent suggestion: Since the bolt was not rusted in place, I put a couple of nuts and washers inside a 1/2" socket, then placed the broken-off head of the bolt (there were some threads remaining on the head, and it was a jagged break) in the end of the socket and mated it up to the broken part in the block. I was able to back the broken piece out somewhat, then got it the rest of the way with the eraser end of a new pencil, and finally got my fingers on it. Time for a celebratory beer.

Thanks though, very much, for all of your replies.

Good Deal
 
"Don't use the torque spec in the Les book... It's too much.."

yep dear ol' Les strikes again....his erroneous spec of 20 ft-lbs torque strikes again...s/b 20 in-lbs or just snug up with the ratchet handle
 
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