distributor

[trucker 46]

Can a guy switch '46 front mounted dist. to a side dist like on later flatheads? Can this be accomplished by switching front timing cover? Thanks

 

[JSeery]

Yes, but you need a camshaft with the gear to drive the distributor. And the timing gears have a different angle to reverse the thrust direction of the cam.

 

[Bluebell]

Jseery, I think you can buy a gear that bolts onto the cam with the gear mounting bolts, as long as you already have a cam with a bolt on gear. (which a std 46 would be)
So yes Trucker 46, I believe it can be done without changing your cam.

 

[51 MERC-CT]

Yes, you can switch and you don't have to change the camshaft. The original timing gears are used and there is not any change of thrust direction.
There are conversion kits available such as this---

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Early-to-Late-Flathead-Drive-Gears,8040.html

 

[34PKUP]

Yes, but you need a camshaft with the gear to drive the distributor. And the timing gears have a different angle to reverse the thrust direction of the cam.

Really??

 

[JSeery]

Really??

Ok, only if you want it to work like the original. Should have been more clear. Thanks for the corrections

 

[Ol' Ron]

Changing the timing gears, is one of the myths of these flatheads. The only consideration is the cam back lash. This can be difficult on an engine in the car. I've done this conversion several times and discovered a problem here with the adapters concentrisity. That is, it doesn't run true with the center line of the cam. some early adapters had a counter sunk bolts that centered the adapter to the cam. The only way to do this is with a dial indicator.

 

[51 MERC-CT]

some early adapters had a counter sunk bolts that centered the adapter to the cam. The only way to do this is with a dial indicator.

Or possibly some custom made sleeves to correct the slop in the bolt holes.

 

[rotorwrench]

If I had a 59 series engine, I'd look at converting the dual cap set up to a crab type to simplify it. There are other options in the aftermarket stuff available for these and some are damn good units. I'd never change for convenience unless I was using a purpose built tunable distributor. The old crab had a good advance system for a flathead V8. It was certainly a much better unit than the Load-O-Matic.

 

[Seth Swoboda]

Listen to rotorwrench. The crab type distributor is better than the Load-O-Matic. In my opinion you would be taking a step backwards.

 

[Kahuna]

X 2 ^

 

[Ol' Ron]

Yes, the Crab is a good distributor, when in proper working order.

 

[JM 35 Sedan]

I'd also rather have a '42 crab style distributor, but if you really feel you want to do that conversion, I think you would be much happier with the performance of GM distributor converted for use in a flathead rather than using Fords load o matic distributor. Charlie Ny or Bubba could fix you up with a GM conversion.

 

[trucker 46]

First, thanks for valuable advice. I was quite happy with front mounted dist.(single cap), but I was going to adapt chevy harmoning ballancer, due to unexplained higher RPM buzzing vibration and the dist. does not allow enough clearance. The engine is completely rebuilt, incl. crank and rebore.

 

[rotorwrench]

I'm not sure how well a Chevy harmonic balancer would work on there. It may not even be the crankshaft that is causing the buzz. It could be the clutch or flywheel. The driveshaft can also have problems.

 

[scooder]

Chevy balancers have been fitted to Flatheads, John dose this in his book.
You say "high rpm buzzing" what is high rpm in your words?
Stock use regular flathead doesn't need a balancer, the rpm that most balancers are tuned for is a good way above what a regular stock flathead will see in normal use. It's not an easy swap on job. It'll cost a handful of green or a handful of time depending on what your able to do your self. And could be all a waste if it doesn't "fix" the buzzing, which I highly doubt it will.
A stock flathead is a smooth running lump of loveliness, as it came from the factory.
I vote that you find out what the buzzing is an fix that.
Martin.

 

[trucker 46]

Thanks Scooter, I am a automotive mechanic and a machinist of 40 years, but I am relatively new to flatheads. I thought and I was told, that these engines are smooth as silk, like you say.
I am trying to get to 50 miles per/hr and the vibration gets pretty unbearable estimating 3500 RPM. Had the flywheel and clutch assy. balanced and checked for run out after installation. After ballancing it improved a little bit, that is why I might think it is the crank and ballancer may help. Changed all motor mounts, despite there was nothing wrong with the old ones. It vibrates even when depressing cluth standing still and reving the engine. It is pretty smooth to mid range RPM. Everything on this 1/2 ton truck is original incl. 3 sp on floor.
I am literally at the end of the rope. Feel like yanking this engine out and dropping 302 or something.

 

[RalphM]

Don't be hasty! I'm sure you can pinpoint the cause of the vibration.
By the way, beautiful Merc truck!
I used to own a 47 Ford truck, and about the only thing you can do to one of those to make it prettier would be to put a Merc truck Grille on it!

 

[JSeery]

It may well be that the crank/rods/pistons are way out of balance. A flathead engine should be a smooth running engine. What you describe sure sounds like there is an internal balance issue and I agree that a harmonic balancer is not going to correct that. It is normal used to smooth out harmonics in an already balanced engine.

 

[scooder]

At 50 mph with all being stock on your truck, 3.78 rear gear and 28 ish inch tire your actually below 2500 rpm.
It does sound internal inbalance, as it does it sat still. Have you tried it with the fan belt off? I'd have the engine apart and balanced, with you doing the wrenching, it ain't that spendy.
Martin.