I would get something fixed to correct this condition as quickly as possible, it is bound to damage the battery charging it at 9 volts. It will take a toll on the rest of the car as well, lights etc.
One way to go is an electronic cutout, but I would start by backing the charge rate on the generator down. There is no reason to be running it at this level. 10 amps (ever if it's a guess with the stock gauge) is way to much, should be right at 0 on the charge side slightly.
Modern electronic solution to a perceived problem! Running during the day with headlights on? w/o cooking out the electrolyte from overcharging?
The problem is NOT the generating system. It is the owner/operators lack of understanding of how the system works.
It's an old Ford. Things are simple; during the day, whilst toddling down the road, all the battery needs to supply is sufficient current to feed ignition; what else is there? Accordingly, all the generator needs to supply is sufficient current to compensate; 2 amps?
Come nite time, lights are on, current demand off battery is more [ ignition plus lites] so the generator output must be increased to suit. Move the 3rd brush down. Look at the ammeter. That's why it's there. you want to have it showing the same 2-3 amp charge with headlights on.
You are the regulator of current output by moving the third brush to suit the load on the battery. Sigh.
I agree, but will add one detail: When you start the engine, you draw the battery down a bit, especially if it takes more than a couple of cranks. Your ammeter will show a couple points into the charge till you've driven sufficiently to recharge, at which time the needle will fall back to normal. If this recharge process takes more than 15 minutes, you may have a problem.
So...was the battery hot [boiling]? Sounds to me like you've got a different issue.
I've got a problem then. When cold, it cranks 1 to 2 revolutions before firing. At idle, it's slightly above the zero line (positive charge). Yesterday, it read 10 amps at road speed for the entire drive. I'm assuming my cutout is bad. Yesterday, I drove maybe 15 minutes to a friends house and turned the car off. 15 minutes later, it cranked hard but started. As I run all this through my mind, maybe the Optima was getting 10 amps that it didn't need for those 15 minutes and heated up to the point where a restart when hot was lacking.
If the cutout fails, it sticks shut, and the ammeter will record a massive discharge upon turning engine off. I bet our grandparents understood what it took to operate a vehicle in their day.
The cut out is exactly that; a cut out; it prevents backflow of current, much the same as a modern day diode. It has squiddly dot to do with regulation of generator output.
Jseery....pm sent
If you sent a PM it didn't come through. Think you are confusing yourself on what is going on here. Your generator is not set properly and the cutout is not going to correct that. Get the generator set properly, very simple to do and if you don't like the new setting move it back. The cutout is a cutout, not a regulator. It works properly when the generator is set properly, it goes not correct for it.