Single Lock Tappets

waxhead said:
Hardtimes, there might be a Serr Miller OHV in my future :)
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Well, if I can help you, just let me know :) ! Live maybe 40 mi away from maker.
Yeah, lots of options, so do not be in a hurry, as haste usually results in tooo much $ and sometimes regret. Hey, if young/restless and deep pockets, heck get several and try them all out till you find what you like best. I'm ok with that, as I deal that way with flatheads...cheap :D.

As for OHV head, I'm thinking that I'll wait till I can get my $ on an alum Scholfield copy....to put on a 5x5 main/cam alum blk :cool: !! I've bench raced it already..honest !!
 
Another question, does anyone know the length of the thread on the adjuster, for the single lock tappet??

Thanks in advance.
 
This is an aftermarket part so there are no blueprint specs as would be the case with a Ford part. There may be no definitive answer as there have been several manufacturers of the single lock tappets. You may have to measure the set that you plan to use. How long is a stick?
 
The picture of those look suspicious.
I have a set here that the foot diameter is under 1.000, and that is a might small.
Depending on what you are doing, it could be trouble.
Oh, and some have 5/16-24 threads too.

If getting the Serr Hi-Speed head, use Steve's advise on the components.

I have been using grade 8 hex bolts, cutting a radiused pocket to match the pushrod ends and then adjusting the length with an washers. This allows you to set the right rocker arm geometry and have the adjusters in proper position.

John
 
waxhead said:
Anyone?? Thanks
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Hey Scott,
Cap screw from hardware or wherever you can get some.
You don't say, but I'm betting that you are making the part for the pushrod bottoms to sit in ?
I've talked to your head maker (Serr) last year and he did not have any available at that time. Serr and another such head maker said same / same...'modify cap screws'.

So, I talked to a talented machinist buddy here (rogerroadster) and he had just made up a batch for his original Cragar install. He used a 'ball mill' tool and cut the cap screw to fit the lower end of the push rod.

I have a set somewhere and if you think that a picture/measurement will help, let me know.

As for how long the threaded end is, if I remember there is a lot of threaded area into the lifter body to work with. From memory the cap screws were about 1/2 inch or longer thread area length. I may use mine to install an original Schofield...or maybe not :)

ursus....'how long is a stick', good one..ha ! Or how high is up ?
 
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hardtimes said:
Hey Scott,
Cap screw from hardware or wherever you can get some.
You don't say, but I'm betting that you are making the part for the pushrod bottoms to sit in ?
I've talked to your head maker (Serr) last year and he did not have any available at that time. Serr and another such head maker said same / same...'modify cap screws'.

So, I talked to a talented machinist buddy here (rogerroadster) and he had just made up a batch for his original Cragar install. He used a 'ball mill' tool and cut the cap screw to fit the lower end of the push rod.

I have a set somewhere and if you think that a picture/measurement will help, let me know.

As for how long the threaded end is, if I remember there is a lot of threaded area into the lifter body to work with. From memory the cap screws were about 1/2 inch or longer thread area length. I may use mine to install an original Schofield...or maybe not :)

ursus....'how long is a stick', good one..ha ! Or how high is up ?
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That is the way I make them also with a ball mill. They work just fine.
 
All, thanks for the responses and suggestions.

Rick (Hardtimes) measurements would be appreciated, thanks.
 
Jesel makes them. Summit sells them. I used a set 3/8-24 cupped adjusters to tread into single lock lifter bodies to seat pushrods in an overhead valve conversion.
 

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waxhead said:
All, thanks for the responses and suggestions.

Rick (Hardtimes) measurements would be appreciated, thanks.
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Will do :) !
I'll send measurements/pics via email to you.
Any other problems ? Like are you going to use studs or bolts to fasten head down ? I've been told by those who have done such, that bolts are easier because the studs near firewall (tooo close) make it hard/impossible to get head back and down. So bolts work much easier.

BTW...regarding lifter foot size. If you are doing all that work for the install, I use the Chrysler (my term..'big foot') lifters. Single lock AND the largest foot that you've ever seen and/or can install. Must ream bore slightly. This helps anyway to ensure excellent fit and straightens out old worn bores. Memory says that the foot is more than 1.250", but I can measure if you need. Now, my blocks are B and the big foot clears all. But, some say that to pay attn. to this and make sure of clearance, etc. That way you can be assured of good locking and using any cam size/grind to suit.
 
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George Miller said:
That is the way I make them also with a ball mill. They work just fine.
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Hey George,
I've been patiently..ha.. waiting to someday learn from you, how the MILLER head performed at hill climbs; and to learn of your progress with the Frankenstein A block setup that I followed you...till you disappeared with :) Any updates on either ?
 
waxhead said:
All, thanks for the responses and suggestions.

Rick (Hardtimes) measurements would be appreciated, thanks.
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If they show, here's some info that you ask for.
Make allowance few thou for shakey achey paws, cheap camera and top of line harbor freight measuring tool ;)

note: lost email so this will do, eh.
 

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