39 Standard fuel tank removal

flatheadv8

flatheadv8

Senior Member
Looks like I need to remove the fuel tank from my 39 Tudor standard sedan. Fuel filter is filling up with some beautiful rust particles. Hoping someone may know what is involved in doing this? Do you have to jack the body up away from the frame? Looks like you may be able to sneak it out. Thank you. :)
 
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flatheadv8 said:
Looks like I need to remove the fuel tank from my 39 Tudor standard sedan. Fuel filter is filling up with some beautiful rust particles. Hoping someone may know what is involved in doing this? Do you have to jack the body up away from the frame? Looks like you may be able to sneak it out. Thank you. :)
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You do not have top jack the body up if it is an original tank. Remove the three bolts that fasten the tank to the frame. Remove the filler neck and rubber hose.. Slide the tank as far as you are able to the left. The right side of the tank will then clear the frame and you will be able to drop it.
 
Kube said:
You do not have top jack the body up if it is an original tank. Remove the three bolts that fasten the tank to the frame. Remove the filler neck and rubber hose.. Slide the tank as far as you are able to the left. The right side of the tank will then clear the frame and you will be able to drop it.
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That is great news Kube, thank you for the help. I was worried about how I was going to do this. Now, to drain the gas and get her out.
 
flatheadv8 said:
That is great news Kube, thank you for the help. I was worried about how I was going to do this. Now, to drain the gas and get her out.
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If you might think of installing a Drake repop tank, THEN you will need to lift the body.
 
I installed Drake replacement tanks in a 35 sedan and 36 coupe I once owned and did not have to lift the body.
 
I would strongly suggest you install a new tank for peace of mind and no more rust issues.
Make sure your original sending unit will fit the new tank before you buy one.
 
19Fordy said:
I would strongly suggest you install a new tank for peace of mind and no more rust issues.
Make sure your original sending unit will fit the new tank before you buy one.
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The 40 tank from Drake requires the body to be lifted. Also, an authentic sending unit will NOT fit.
 
More thoughts. Some repro tanks hold 16 instead of 14 gallons. I installed a polyethylene tank. The tank did not have cage nuts so the original bolts and springs could not be used. That was a surprise. Another problem is the stock sending unit has to be "adapted" as it's not a bolt in. Also, the fuel line outlet on the tank is not on the bottom of the tank like the original and the tank is vented. I think this is a federal law of some type. This means a fuel line fitting and modification is needed. Also, there is no drain plug on the bottom like the original. I had to install one. Also, the 16 gallon tanks are deeper and come closer to the exhaust pipe.
If I had to do it all over, I would try to find an OEM tank that is EXACTLY like the original and a true 'bolt in." But, if that's not possible, have yours professionally cleaned out and sealed. It will probably out live you. Doing this avoids all the other annoying issues that become apparent when installing a repro tank that is not EXACTLY correct like Henry's.
Make sure you ask all these questions when buying. I bought mine from TANKS. It's what they don't tell you that turns this into a "project". Take photos of how the gas tank bolts and springs are secured before you actually "drop the tank."
Many years ago, I actually cut open the top of the tank, cleaned it out and rewelded it. Then I fiber glassed the entire tank. I was not aiming for AACA standards. I don't recommend this as the original tanks are made of Terne plate and welding it is a pain. Plus, it might go BOOM. Hope this helps.
 

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my 2 cents, pulled the tank on my 39 std 2 door, and everything went fine till the last caged nut, which was frozen and rounded off, took me 2 days after work, but i got it!
 
19Fordy said:
More thoughts. Some repro tanks hold 16 instead of 14 gallons. I installed a polyethylene tank. The tank did not have cage nuts so the original bolts and springs could not be used. That was a surprise. Another problem is the stock sending unit has to be "adapted" as it's not a bolt in. Also, the fuel line outlet on the tank is not on the bottom of the tank like the original and the tank is vented. I think this is a federal law of some type. This means a fuel line fitting and modification is needed. Also, there is no drain plug on the bottom like the original. I had to install one. Also, the 16 gallon tanks are deeper and come closer to the exhaust pipe.
If I had to do it all over, I would try to find an OEM tank that is EXACTLY like the original and a true 'bolt in." But, if that's not possible, have yours professionally cleaned out and sealed. It will probably out live you. Doing this avoids all the other annoying issues that become apparent when installing a repro tank that is not EXACTLY correct like Henry's.
Make sure you ask all these questions when buying. I bought mine from TANKS. It's what they don't tell you that turns this into a "project". Take photos of how the gas tank bolts and springs are secured before you actually "drop the tank."
Many years ago, I actually cut open the top of the tank, cleaned it out and rewelded it. Then I fiber glassed the entire tank. I was not aiming for AACA standards. I don't recommend this as the original tanks are made of Terne plate and welding it is a pain. Plus, it might go BOOM. Hope this helps.
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VERY good advice indeed!
 
19Fordy said:
More thoughts. Some repro tanks hold 16 instead of 14 gallons. I installed a polyethylene tank. The tank did not have cage nuts so the original bolts and springs could not be used. That was a surprise. Another problem is the stock sending unit has to be "adapted" as it's not a bolt in. Also, the fuel line outlet on the tank is not on the bottom of the tank like the original and the tank is vented. I think this is a federal law of some type. This means a fuel line fitting and modification is needed. Also, there is no drain plug on the bottom like the original. I had to install one. Also, the 16 gallon tanks are deeper and come closer to the exhaust pipe.
If I had to do it all over, I would try to find an OEM tank that is EXACTLY like the original and a true 'bolt in." But, if that's not possible, have yours professionally cleaned out and sealed. It will probably out live you. Doing this avoids all the other annoying issues that become apparent when installing a repro tank that is not EXACTLY correct like Henry's.
Make sure you ask all these questions when buying. I bought mine from TANKS. It's what they don't tell you that turns this into a "project". Take photos of how the gas tank bolts and springs are secured before you actually "drop the tank."
Many years ago, I actually cut open the top of the tank, cleaned it out and rewelded it. Then I fiber glassed the entire tank. I was not aiming for AACA standards. I don't recommend this as the original tanks are made of Terne plate and welding it is a pain. Plus, it might go BOOM. Hope this helps.
Click to expand...

Awesome advice, thank you again for everyone's help. I am going to try to have the original tank cleaned and sealed. I will let everyone know how it goes.
 
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