Rad hose for 8BA in a 1933 Question

hotrodcbx

Senior Member
I have installed a 8BA with stock heads in my 33 roadster with a stock rad. What upper rad hoses do I need? The thermo housings are 1 3/4" outlets but the rad has 2 1/4" outlets.. It would also require a "S" type hose as well. I know this swap is common, what are the options?? Thanks in Advance for all suggestions..
 
I went to the muffler shop and had a piece of stainless made to fit and used 2 dif rubber hoses .
 
I have installed a 8BA with stock heads in my 33 roadster with a stock rad. What upper rad hoses do I need? The thermo housings are 1 3/4" outlets but the rad has 2 1/4" outlets.. It would also require a "S" type hose as well. I know this swap is common, what are the options?? Thanks in Advance for all suggestions..

8ba inlets are 1 1/4" and the top radiator outlet on the earlier flatheads is 1 3/4". You can buy the 1 3/4" outlets as suggested from MEC or Drake and the Early Ford Store sell them as well. Or you can do as I do on my '39 p/u with an 8ba, use flex hose that is 1 3/4" on one end and 1 1/2" on the other end and use a
1 1/2" x 1 1/4" reducer. Dayco makes the reducers as I'm sure do others but they are almost as much as the hose itself.
 
Hotrodcbx can you post a pix or 2 of your conversion in a 1933 Roadster...how did you get the 8BA motor's right side-mount distributor , pulleys, belts and generator to clear the slanted back radiator?

PS you can slip on a short piece of 8BA-sized radiator hose onto the thermo housing followed by the larger hose over it... the lower hose clamp will squeeze them both.
 
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One thing to do is before you assemble the engine,either machine the 8ba dist drive off the front of the cam and make a little plate up with the slot in,or fit a earlier cam for the pre 8ba engine then fit a front mount cover and use a front mount dist.
lawrie
 
It was a problem getting the engine pulley to clear the stock front cross member, the dist. was OK. The front engine mounts were raised about 2". I had the engine pulley's front groove machined off and reduced in diameter enough so it would contain the 5/8" single belt. In order for the engine to sit as far back as possible I had to machine about 3/4" off the rear of the intake to clear the stock throttle mechanism mounted on the firewall. The engine pulley was the most difficult item to clear and the conversion was more difficult than I expected. No problem for the gen bracket, actually I am using a alternator using the stock mounting on the front of the intake. I opted for twin electric fans in front of the rad. Will send pics. Not a swap for an impatient person..
As for the "T" housings, I think I will weld on a 1 3/4" tube on the housing and angle it to accommodate the rad outlets. From there, I will use short pieces of 1 3/4" stainless tube connected at each end with stock LOWER rad hoses and clamps. This way everything will be the stock (for '33 and '34) hose size of 1 3/4" . Thanks for all input.
 
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