Modern Fuel filters for the Model A

B

Bigphil

Junior Member
I have a late 1931 Zenith carburetor with sidebowl on my A400 convertible sedan (indented firewall)
I need a good fuel filter - I have a metal mesh filter just
behind the firewall shut off valve, and another metal mesh filter within the sidebowl. I had to disassemble and clean the carburetor after just 250 miles due to rust particles.

How can I get modern 40 micron filter technology into this setup ? The external inline filters look like a kludge.

Is there an internal 40 micron filter that I could use ?
Something in the sidebowl would be the easiest to install.
 
Flush the tank a few times. Be sure to shake real good before and while draining.

Make sure the screen is good on the side bowl.

Run it.

You did not say you are having problems running. The A carb is designed to handle dirt that gets past the filter and is easy to clean. If the dirt is not a super bad problem it will likely clear itself by running it a bunch.

I would expect that the amount of dirt being trapped quickly lessons as you drive it.

When dealing with the A sometimes it is best to keep things simple and work with its design.
 
Some folks have implemented a "dirty leg" type of trap, for particles to settle into before they get into the fuel line and carb. If you do a search you will find a description and photos.
 
Maybe try dropping a magnet into the tank and positioning it near the outlet. It will catch any rust particles. I do the same in the coolant overflow tank. If possible, it's best to see to it that they can be removed at a later date for cleaning.
 
Through all my drama I had with a rusty tank till I fixed it I never had to clean the carb out. Only got 5 or 10 miles till cleaning filters and dirty leg but never the carb.
 
Put a pencil filter at the top of your tank outlet.

x2

I then buy the inexpensive plastic filters, like 10 at a time and change them out, right before going into the carb.

as Kevin says, in time you will be running clean whiskey!
 
Synchro909 said:
Maybe try dropping a magnet into the tank and positioning it near the outlet. It will catch any rust particles. I do the same in the coolant overflow tank. If possible, it's best to see to it that they can be removed at a later date for cleaning.
Click to expand...

I don't even put the magnets IN the tank. If you get some modern neodymium magnets, you can stick them under the dash surrounding the outlet. They catch an awful lot of it.

Keep in mind that rust itself (ferrous oxide) will not be attracted to a magnet, but rustY metal will. I find mine catches all but the tiniest bits of fine rust and the glass bowl catches the rest.

Ken
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
I've done two of them with a perfect fit.
Click to expand...

How? Does it go in horizontally? I thought the idea was for it to stand up vertically, so the crud is stopped on say the bottom 1/3, and the rest of the screen flows clean gas. If it's horizontal, I would think you have more of a chance to plug it up. I guess I just assumed,because of the different angles it wouldn't work.
 
ronn said:
Put a pencil filter at the top of your tank outlet.

x2

I then buy the inexpensive plastic filters, like 10 at a time and change them out, right before going into the carb.

as Kevin says, in time you will be running clean whiskey!
Click to expand...

I hope you are keeping those plastic filters safely away from your exhaust manifold. :eek:
 
Chuck Sea/Tac said:
How? Does it go in horizontally? I thought the idea was for it to stand up vertically, so the crud is stopped on say the bottom 1/3, and the rest of the screen flows clean gas. If it's horizontal, I would think you have more of a chance to plug it up. I guess I just assumed,because of the different angles it wouldn't work.
Click to expand...

I have look into this for a late indented fire wall. Being horizontal it would soon plug up IMO. I instead decided to use a glass filter, a drop leg could be another choice! Someone posted pictures of a late 31 model A and it had a glass filter and this was on a assembly line!
 
I have flushed my tank twice in the last 7/8 years,and added a dirty leg with an inverted pea trap 5 years ago. I've cleaned the leg a couple of times(not much in it), and haven't had any issues since. The little in line filter I used wouldn't work under heavy demand. I do drive my car all year round.
 
Even though the filter in the valve would be almost horizontal, it still does a good job. You need to flush the tank to first get all the loose crud out, then the filter will take care of any left overs that break loose. Just flush by using a hose from the drain into a cloth covered bucket, and keep flushing until no ,more junk catches on the cloth.
 
I use this on my SW Indented tank 68C with great results. It is available at the vendors for late 1931's for around $35.
 

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Hello Bruce....I realize this is an old thread, but I've just purchased a 68C and am sorting through how to filter the gas....the glass filter bowl in your posting does not seem to have a fuel shutoff but seems to fit in the location of the shut off valve at the indented firewall.

Can you elaborate on how you cut off fuel?

Or can anyone else on the forum with a late 31 (indented firewall) model A provide details on filtering of fuel?

The car I just obtained has a large inline filter (see photo)...I'd like to replace with something that looks like it fits in better...at same time I swap out the Tillotson carb for a proper Zenith side bowl one.
 

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