Nu- rex TRANSISTOR IGINITION
- Thread starter gearloose
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Jason in TX
Well-known member
There is a fuse on it. Is that ok?
steve s
Well-known member
Find a trouble shooting recipe and grind through it. OR, get a multimeter and check for voltage between all of the connection points and ground.
Common problems: bad fuse or fuse-contact if you're using the dealie that mounts on the starter motor; loose connection at the ammeter; bad ignition switch. I'm assuming the motor turns over (battery not dead) but it won't catch.
Steve
J Franklin
Well-known member
Maybe time for a new one. Is the warranty expired?
Jason in TX
Well-known member
Also make sure you didn't kick one of the small wires loose from the box/brain. Also check that your rotor is turning.
David Moore
Member
Had the same thing happen to my Nu-Rex, ran good for four years and then began to miss intermittently, then it finally just died. Called Nu-Rex and they said I had caused the failure by do things to the unit that I was not suppose to do. This was not the case, it just died. I was going to buy a replacement control module but I was so annoyed at their attitude I took it off and threw it away. I bought a new setup from a competitor and have not had a minute’s problem. I had 18,000 miles on the Nu-Rex and I have 7,000 miles on the new electronic system. Electronic ignitions have hot sparks but so does a 12 volt system. The last three model A that I have built all have 12 volt points and condenser. No more electronics. I carry a rebuilt distributer with the points already set in case of a failure. I can be running again in 5 Minutes. I am not going to use any more electronic ignitions.
Dave in MN
Well-known member
I have had a Nu-rex electronic system in for 8+ years. In about year 2 it started to operate intermittent and it turned out to be the ground connection to the chassis. I contacted Nu-Rex and they pointed me towards the grounding. I cleaned the contact surface, tightened the ground lug rather well and it has worked ever since.
I worked on a friends Pertronix (Spelling?) system and was stumped by the lack of spark. I mentioned my problem to a few non-Model A guys and their suggestion was to check for a bad ground connection. It turned out to be a ground issue to the chassis again. Check it before you give up on the system. Good luck and let us know what the problem was when you get it working.
Good Day!
Dave in MN
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Jason in TX
Well-known member
There is nothing really to break with the elec. Ignition unless you gave it some kind of high voltage spike, but that is what the fuse protects and you said that is ok. The ground sounds like a good place to start. Make sure the paint is scraped away to bare metal where it is grounded at the firewall. Also clean any corrosion while there checking it.
Another tip would be to make sure the rubber shielding on your wires inside the fake shielded cable didn't rub raw around the junction box. If exposed they could be grounding out.
Another tip would be to make sure the rubber shielding on your wires inside the fake shielded cable didn't rub raw around the junction box. If exposed they could be grounding out.
George Miller
Well-known member
Hi David
I had a electronic ignition on a fuel injection 1959 vette back in the 60ts. It left me 100 miles from home, had no money. It still used the points for the trigger. So I took the condenser for the radio used it with the points and got home. So I will stick with points also, they get the job done.
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Kurt in NJ
Well-known member
A test light can be used at the coil, 1 terminal should light with battery power, the other should blink when cranking --if this happens and still no spark try another coil.
No blinking could mean the "box" is not getting it's trigger signal--- that pickup looks like the one on a 70s dodge, there was a brass feeler gauge to set the gap, if it was too large -no spark ---also on the old dodge if the pickup was unhooked and the 2 wires touched together it would trigger the box (make it spark)--but I do not know how exact the Nurex copy is to the Dodge.
If you had a graphing meter you could look for pickup waveform.
As mentioned before, check power + grounds, and looking at the nurex site it looks like the pickup wires are connected with wirenuts --check them. --also the site says it has a 5 year warranty---and they sell a "spare" box and coil for you to buy to keep for "breakdowns".
If all else fails you can go back to the reliable original system --points, I am still using the same points that came with the car 40+ years ago. ---every few years i clean and adjust them.
No blinking could mean the "box" is not getting it's trigger signal--- that pickup looks like the one on a 70s dodge, there was a brass feeler gauge to set the gap, if it was too large -no spark ---also on the old dodge if the pickup was unhooked and the 2 wires touched together it would trigger the box (make it spark)--but I do not know how exact the Nurex copy is to the Dodge.
If you had a graphing meter you could look for pickup waveform.
As mentioned before, check power + grounds, and looking at the nurex site it looks like the pickup wires are connected with wirenuts --check them. --also the site says it has a 5 year warranty---and they sell a "spare" box and coil for you to buy to keep for "breakdowns".
If all else fails you can go back to the reliable original system --points, I am still using the same points that came with the car 40+ years ago. ---every few years i clean and adjust them.
J Franklin
Well-known member
I would agree that points have never let me down either as long as they are clean, set right, and the block lubed with the proper stuff. I do keep a spare condenser though.