Grinding/filing roller tracks

pooch

pooch

Well-known member
Gunna have a go at rebuilding my roller tracks, not removing them from backing plate.

What tool does one use to level the weld from the working face of the track.

I have read dremel.

But what does the cutting bit look like and size?

Hand filing would be tedious.

Bending is advocated for adjusting for centreing of shoes.

Could each tang be bent outwards at 45 degrees, then smoothed off easily square on , then bent back, without fatigue damage problems?
 
I have a cutting wheel attachment that fits in a dremel. Bought it at Lowe's. About 1 1/2 inch dia. I weld up the dimple then use the wheel to clean it up and level the surface. Big Cresent to raise and lower for adjustment..
 
I used a Dremel with the straight, small diameter burr.
I measured and scribed a line on the track at the required distance from the rivet (front and back have different distances), then used the Dremel at about a 45 degree angle across the flat surface, to keep it from trying to run off from the rotational torque.
I don't know if that comes across very clear, but that's the only way I can describe the process. Mine ended up nice and straight, with a flat rolling surface. It just took some time and patience.
Be sure and wear eye and hearing protection though! Those metal shavings will be tiny and flying everywhere!
 
I gas weld the tracks on the backing plates. Mig weld is very hard and doesn't finish as well. I use an air cut off tool with a three inch cut off wheel to grind the welds.
 
My tracks have only the slightest nicks.

I have a large MiG, and know that even a small hit will deposit a huge blob.

If using gas and a mild steel filler rod, after grinding, and straightening, should the track be hardened a little, by heating and dunking in oil?
 
I have heard of quinching with water to harden but this could harden to the point the tracks would break if bent. I never quinch the welds and mine hold up well. I figure they won't need to last another 80 years for me.
 
I have welded and ground the roller tracks, with a Dremel, and with good success I might add. I find that just replacing them, less than $30 for the fronts, is more cost effective and I end with a better result and no wondering if I have compromised the integrity of the steel. If you have the time and the energy, go for it. It can be a very satisfying job. (although it is very time consuming)
 
For what it's worth, I used a mixed gas MIG and .024 wire. When you hit it the very first lick it might not be the kind of weld you're looking for, but as you pulse weld along, it heats up and flows nicely. You just have to watch the pool so that you don't overheat it and make it run, or blow it out. Again, patience is the key. I also chucked it in a vice so I could flat weld it, vs trying to weld it with the backing plate laying on the table.
I could have TIGed it, or gas welded it, but the finished product worked out very well with the MIG.
 
Jim Parker Toronto said:
I find that just replacing them, less than $30 for the fronts, is more cost effective and I end with a better result and no wondering if I have compromised the integrity of the steel. If you have the time and the energy, go for it. It can be a very satisfying job. (although it is very time consuming)
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I thought about that, but wasn't sure I could rivet it properly.

On that train of thought, I also considered cutting off the bottom portion of the track and butt welding an equal portion of a new track in it's place. I didn't have any new tracks on hand and "the book" called for welding them, so I gave that a try.
 
Years ago, I personally preferred to remove the tracks and repair them by gas or TIG welding. I felt that I could get a more precise "fix" by doing the repair off of the backing plates. That also gave me the opportunity to glass bead and repaint the entire backing plate including the area under the track. Later, when the good quality replacement tracks became available from the suppliers such as Bratton's, it became easier to simply install the new tracks. I now do the removal and installation (gratis) for anyone in our local clubs who is concerned about or doesn't have the riveting equipment. Gar Williams
 
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I have taken to buying them now too.They were $23.for a pair,and the tool to hold the rivet heads come with them.I just heat the end of the rivet with a small tip,then whack it with the rivet gun.So far they have all come out nice.
 
The fiber cut off wheel on the dremel is a wonder and versatile tool.

Since it has the fibers it can be used on the face and does not break. It is a precise way to get into a lot of small places and tidy up welds.
 
Removed both rear backing plates and cleaned up.

Now they look identical.

I did not mark which side is which.

Les Andrews book says brake actuating arms are marked right and left.

I cannot see any marks.

Anything else to look for or does it not matter?
 
The fork end or top of the brake actuating arms actually "point" on a slight angle inboard (or to the center) when the arm is positioned corectly. Of course the arms are located on the inside front of the backing plate and are positioned so that the fork end is at the top of the arm. As an example, with the left (drivers side) backing plate attached to the rear axle housing, the arm pivot is at the front of the plate and the arm is positioned almost vertical; toward the top of the plate from the pivot center. The fork end will point slightly to the right; enough to be visible to the eye.

Hopefully, my description works for you. If not, let me know. Gar Williams
 
Gar, I do see one of the hole sets pointing inboard, but the other is straight.so I will make the best of it.

thanks.
 
pooch said:
Removed both rear backing plates and cleaned up.

Now they look identical.

I did not mark which side is which.

Les Andrews book says brake actuating arms are marked right and left.

I cannot see any marks.

Anything else to look for or does it not matter?
Click to expand...

It's easy, the edge with the road rash goes down!:D

As far as the backing plate by itself, it doesn't matter, as both sides have the same part number.
 
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