Head Gasket

What should I do???

  • Use the new style "premium" gasket

    Votes: 10 40.0%

  • Use the 1973 repo copper gasket?

    Votes: 12 48.0%

  • Find another type of gasket?

    Votes: 1 4.0%

  • Put the tools away before I hurt myself?

    Votes: 2 8.0%
  • Total voters
    25
  • Poll closed .
Kevin - Illinois

Kevin - Illinois

Senior Member
I'm about to install the head today. It is a stock head and I bought new #8 studs. I have two types of gaskets...the modern style "premium" gasket - black with the red selant around it (like Snyders and other sell). I also have the Felpro copper gasket (old repo from 1973 but in great shape) with a can of tack spray. Which gasket should I use?
 
I vote neither!

There are two new gaskets from "Best" gasket company. One is copper with a black non-porous filler far superior to the stuff in a FP-7013 R3. The other is two layers of a kevlar reinforced material bonded to a steel core, with steel fire rings. You can read about them here: http://www.bestgasket.com/about_our_products.asp

With the known narrow weak spots and seepage problems with the fel-pro, and the blowouts with the modern silicone, I see no reason not to try something else. I have one of their copper gaskets waiting for a call to duty. I can't wait :confused: for an opportunity to use it.

H & H sells the Best brand copper ones. If I were doing a repair with a block that was not within a few thou. of flat, or somewhat scratched and gouged, I would probably try their kevlar/graphite/steelcore gasket.
 
i would use the copper gasket with copper spray. i just used the modern gasket on 2 engines and ended up taking both of them off with external coolant leaks. put on the copper good to go no trouble at all. i know of other individuals love the modern one but never again in this house
 
MikeK said:
I vote neither!

There are two new gaskets from "Best" gasket company....You can read about them here: http://www.bestgasket.com/about_our_products.asp

With the known narrow weak spots and seepage problems with the fel-pro, and the blowouts with the modern silicone, I see no reason not to try something else....
Click to expand...

I'm with Mike, for the reasons he stated. I installed the Best Graph-Tite last time around. Only got about 500 miles on it, so I can't report long-term results, but I did notice that there was very little change in nut position during the back-it-off-1/8-turn-and-retorques.

Joe
 
Go for the best quality copper you can buy. I used a silicon/composite type and it etched deeply into the head and block after 2000miles. I had to have both milled to restore the mating surfaces.
 
I used a Copper Gasket with spray Copper Coat sealer on my "B" Engine about five years ago with no signs of leakage what so ever but I have yet to put water in it. When I finish the car and put water in it, I hope it will stay that way.

I am a little slow with my projects.

Chris
 
Last edited:
our Town Sedan has a Brumfield head. I use a copper gasket because that's what Larry recommends.

next year when I tighten up the engine in the Coupe, I'm installing a Snyder's 5.5 head. I will be using a modern composite gasket, because thet's what Snyder recommends.

there are enough other things that can go bad, why ask for trouble by ignoring the maufacturer's recommendations?
 
I use a Best composition gasket on a Weiand 7:1 CR head. No problems. It torques down to about .050 thickness. The stock pistons "pop up" about .040 on a stock deck. This is no problem with stock or flycut heads. I would recommend measuring the pop up on any installation for general info and different pistons are different (duh). The Weiand is not flycut so I took .025 off the top of the pistons.
 
Chris in Jax said:
...there are enough other things that can go bad, why ask for trouble by ignoring the maufacturer's recommendations?
Click to expand...

Manufacturers can and sometimes do have agendas that don't necessarily include what is best for the customer or the customer's engine.

Joe
 
JoeWay said:
Manufacturers can and sometimes do have agendas that don't necessarily include what is best for the customer or the customer's engine.

Joe
Click to expand...
this is true.

although Snyder sells the gasket they specify, Brumfield does not.

if one has a problem and called to complain, I'm certain the first question would be "what kind of gasket did you use".
 
I agree here if it is a small bore and you have the Felpro 7013-R1 I would use it. The R3 is really not the best unless you are bored past .060. I have an NORS McCord and a Felpro R1 saved back for cloe to stock sized engines. The R3 was made assuming all engies were bored considerably and really are a poor choice for a small bore. I have 3 blocks that I know are all under .040 and several will clean up at .060. Larry recommends the R3, for the BF, but if a samll bore I would still use the R1. I have not used the newer composite gaskets on the market as of yet. Rod
 
Well here it is folks, I installed the modern premium gasket (with impregnated red sealant) and I have an external leak on the left side. I'll let it cool and hit it with the torque wrench again. I will say the motor runs 100% better so it appears I fixed the internal leak. Next time maybe copper :rolleyes:...
 
I used the new modern silicone gasket, and have not had a single drop of a leak anywhere. A gentleman above mentioned his block was etched by the silicone gasket. Anyone else have that occur, or any opinions on the likelihood of that happening?
 
Kevin - Illinois said:
Well here it is folks, I installed the modern premium gasket (with impregnated red sealant) and I have an external leak on the left side. I'll let it cool and hit it with the torque wrench again. I will say the motor runs 100% better so it appears I fixed the internal leak. Next time maybe copper :rolleyes:...
Click to expand...

read my earlier post have fun pulling it off again they are garbage
 
After letting it cool I realized the leak was from the water neck seal and it was following the joint between the head and block making it look like that's where the leak was coming from. I resealed the neck and it stopped. I'm not using a gasket, just red sealant. Oh, and a threw some paint on it which should really help the seal ;).

I'll keep an eye on it for a while as my anual trip to "take the A back to see Dad in Michigan" isn't until July.
 

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