Real Barn Find Engine

inex01

inex01

Senior Member
Last year at a car show I was approached by a person who asked me if I would be interested in purchasing a Model A Ford Generator. His Grandfather passed away and his family inherited the Iowa farm. He was going to sell the farm but was going to keep whatever was of value and was not sure what the generator would be worth. I had no idea at all but did tell him I would be interested in the engine and after he did his research call me with what he wanted for the generator. Well he did call me about one month latter and was asking $500.00, I passed on the offer and countered with a offer of $150.00. Well I thought that it was the end of that, about two weeks ago I get a call and he accepts my offer and will deliver if I am still interested, I accept and yesterday it was delivered. Now the story about this generator; it was built in 1936 and the engine entire drive train was taken form a wrecked car, the generator was cobbled together and then was only used for welding on the farm. It was used randomly till 1943 when they finally got electricity.

Yesterday I pulled the head and valve cover and have found a very clean engine, it is all original and there is ZERO ridge in each cylinder. My plan is to clean her up, check all the Babbitt bearings and then install new rings, valves, cam, timing gears and then reassemble. I will then run on a test stand.

My understanding is that the original engines were smooth running and balanced at the factory. If she runs well will install in my Roadster because that engine always had a vibration. So will see and hopefully the mains will check out. :D
 

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You "stole" it for 150.00 in my opinion. I feel just the block and ****** core ****** are worth more then that.

After your inspection why not just try to get the engine running as it without all the expense of parts?
 
Mike V. Florida said:
You "stole" it for 150.00 in my opinion. I feel just the block and ****** core ****** are worth more then that.

After your inspection why not just try to get the engine running as it without all the expense of parts?
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Well need to really clean the engine up well, it is not difficult to hone the cylinders and install new rings and then will keep the cam and just install lifters and valves all stock no high compression head so will not be a real big cost for a good engine. Will also rebuild the transmission, one non stock item I will install the V8 flywheel because had one for a past project that never go off the ground and has been sitting on the shelf for the last three years and is balanced and ready to go, everything else will be stock as they come because this Roadster is more eye candy than a driver and only driven to local shows and less than 500 miles a year
 
I would fire the engine up as is, and not take anything apart. Maybe remove the pan if you have sludge, but why replace all the other parts. This could well be a perfectly good running engine, just like the homemade deer hauler engine I'm cleaning and painting now. I wasn't even going to remove the oil pan, but will just to blast it and paint it.

BTW, you did good on the buy.
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
I would fire the engine up as is, and not take anything apart. Maybe remove the pan if you have sludge, but why replace all the other parts. This could well be a perfectly good running engine, just like the homemade deer hauler engine I'm cleaning and painting now. I wasn't even going to remove the oil pan, but will just to blast it and paint it.

BTW, you did good on the buy.
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Well I already pulled the head and valve cover. I really enjoy working on these old Model A engines, Just last week I finished a valve job and transmission rebuild for my friends 30 Coupe and she runs like a clock and my friend is so happy and it gives me a feeling of accomplishment.

I consider this engine a diamond in the rough and I want to make sure all the internal oil passages are open and clean, you would not believe how clean the internal water passages are! like new! this engine deserves to be treated with care. For me this is entertainment not work and my total cost will be 4 - 5 hundred dollars, not bad for some enjoyable wrenching and having a good engine as the end result. Call me nuts or whatever but that is the story.
 
Chuck,

Real good find !

I think you were wise to pull the valve cover and the head... you never can be sure where the rodents and bugs set-up housekeeping.

I bought a 1930 Doodlebug engine that had been sitting in a shed for decades, and when I pulled the intake / exhaust manifold, the exhaust manifold and valve ports were full of cat kibble !

And, the running diamond engine that I recently acquired, ( we ran it on a test buck for at least an hour ), when I had pulled it down, and was blowing-out the coolant passages ion the block and head, I got quite a bit of mouse-fluff out of it... ( remember: running engine, with coolant ! )

If that engine came off the road in 1936, it could have less than 10k miles on it, and i think it wise to make sure everything is clean and clear before firing it up.

Do you have the means to check cylinder bores for taper ? Would be interesting to hear what you find.

Good Luck !

SC Frank (former Howard County boy)
 
Special Coupe Frank said:
Chuck,

Real good find !

I think you were wise to pull the valve cover and the head... you never can be sure where the rodents and bugs set-up housekeeping.

I bought a 1930 Doodlebug engine that had been sitting in a shed for decades, and when I pulled the intake / exhaust manifold, the exhaust manifold and valve ports were full of cat kibble !

And, the running diamond engine that I recently acquired, ( we ran it on a test buck for at least an hour ), when I had pulled it down, and was blowing-out the coolant passages ion the block and head, I got quite a bit of mouse-fluff out of it... ( remember: running engine, with coolant ! )

If that engine came off the road in 1936, it could have less than 10k miles on it, and i think it wise to make sure everything is clean and clear before firing it up.

Do you have the means to check cylinder bores for taper ? Would be interesting to hear what you find.

Good Luck !

SC Frank (former Howard County boy)
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So glad that I pulled her apart, every water passage was full of mouse fluff like you mentioned, plastic gauged the mains and all are in fine shape, actually BEAUTIFUL ! pulled the valves, cam and all still need to pull the crank gear but my puller crapped out in the process. The engine has .30 pistons and look original except for # 1, it was replaced at some time, it was ready for a valve job so not sure if she is low mileage engine. Plan on throwing in a set a new rings anyway. I will be using the original cam "Look New" head will also be put back on. This will be a perfect engine for my Roadster which is more of a garage queen anyway, but at least she should be more comfortable to drive with a factory build engine, at least I hope so!.
 
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inex01 said:
...she should be more comfortable t drive with a factory build engine, at least I hope so!.
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Chuck,

I am very much looking forward to my short-block rebuild on the diamond block from Schwalm's. I am having Ora balance the crank / flywheel / pressure plate as well, and am going with stock cam grind, stock head, etc.

I hope to wind-up with a very "authentic" behaving A engine.

I want to experience one "as Henry built it"...

Good luck with yours, you got a heckuva deal. :cool:

Frank
 
Special Coupe Frank said:
Chuck,

I am very much looking forward to my short-block rebuild on the diamond block from Schwalm's. I am having Ora balance the crank / flywheel / pressure plate as well, and am going with stock cam grind, stock head, etc.

I hope to wind-up with a very "authentic" behaving A engine.

I want to experience one "as Henry built it"...

Good luck with yours, you got a heckuva deal. :cool:

Frank
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Frank,
Ora is the BEST! he did a rebuild on my 31 Sedan three years ago and that engine PURRS!!!! the only thing that was was additional was a touring cam and high compression head but the engine has very little vibration and it may not be the engine anyway.
 
You probably have one of the last unbored engines in existence! Start it up and see how it runs. Great Buy!
Terri
 
Great deal. You can sell the radiator and make your money back. Good to see there ae bargains still around.
 
Unbored engine? Story sounds promising but .30 on the pistons most likely is actually .030, frequently the first over bore size. Even then what you have might really meet your expectations. Best of luck.
 
100IH said:
Unbored engine? Story sounds promising but .30 on the pistons most likely is actually .030, frequently the first over bore size. Even then what you have might really meet your expectations. Best of luck.
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You are correct .030 is on the # 1 cylinder only and has a different piston? so something happened ? But my Babbitt and all rod bearings are like new, also the cam shaft. I will still be replacing the rings and all new valves & of-course lifters, but nothing else will be changed so I am hopeful that I will have a well balanced engine, time will tell, if not at least I will have another engine to use for my next project "Speedster Maybe". :D
 
Since you have one piston that's different, I wonder how it's weight compares to the others. I'd make sure all the bore diameters match as well as a new set of matched pistons. While you have the valves out, now is the time to make sure the seats are the proper width and location to the valve face.
In other words, a good 3 angle valve job.
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
Since you have one piston that's different, I wonder how it's weight compares to the others. I'd make sure all the bore diameters match as well as a new set of matched pistons. While you have the valves out, now is the time to make sure the seats are the proper width and location to the valve face.
In other words, a good 3 angle valve job.
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You are a mind reader! I was thinking the same.... am pulling all pistons out anyway to replace the rings and can not believe they would only bore one cylinder? will see but the real upside is those beautiful main Babbitt bearings
 
Can you tell if the mains are still factory babbit. My 28 had .060" pistons, but still was running on the factory babbit. It only had a shim or two left, on the mains, so I had the block rebabbitted. Since the babbit was till good I should have left it alone.
 
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