Flathead Starter question

WRA

Senior Member
All,

I have two identical starters for my flathead. One had the gear that freely spins up and down the screwed shaft. The other does not. Which one is correct?
 
If one looks like this:
45388205.jpg

And the other looks like this:
45388202.jpg

They are both correct. They are both the same starter. The only difference is that one has the drive on it and the other one doesn't. Of course, the one without the drive won't start the car. It's got to have the drive on it.
 
The starter that the gear slides on is the original style drive,the other one is a replacement drive the same style as the drive for the Y block.If you get the gear extended it needs to be spun to let the gear retract.
John
 
Flathead Bendix Drives

Reprising a previous thread, has anyone tried these "modern" Bendix drives Mac's is selling? I'd like some real-world evaluations.

My situation is a warmed 8BA 276 in a '53 Victoria with the cast iron bellhousing and the steel starter plate. It's 12 volts, and the starter's also been converted to 12 volts, but it seems to be mangling the old-style Bendix springs. Haven't broken one yet, but that won't surprise me.
 

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Richard, the starter in my 8BA is equipped with the newer style drive. With the 6 volt system, it works fine.

Richard in Louisville
 
Richard, the starter in my 8BA is equipped with the newer style drive. With the 6 volt system, it works fine.
Did you by any chance keep the instructions that came with it? If so, could you scan and e-mail them to me? If they're really short (as I expect), maybe you could just tell me about them.

Thanks.
 
i bought one from macs ,installed it on a rebuilt starter tryed to put it in my 8BA with cast bellhousing and couldn't get it past the flywheel,called macs they said to grind 010-020 thou off of large washer ,did that still no go,went back to original bendix no problem,some guys have no problem installing them others do, hope you have better luck than i did,,,
 
I did not have any problem on the 8BA with a stamped housing. I don't recall if there were instructions. I manuvered the starter into position in the same manner as with the original style Bendix drive.

Richard
 
Rich in FLA,
Do you have the little support tab at the front of the starter that ties to an oil pan bolt? Apparently, that little tab helps in preserving starters.
 
Richard;
some of the starter plates are not flat and that creates a problem with the new style starter. some have a slight angle to them where the starter mounts. Flat-O-Products is remaking the starter plates for the 8BA with the flat mounting. If you arre serious about researching this, contact Gene Benson at Flat-O-Products. info@flat-o.com He is very helpful. He is the one that makes the C-4 conversion for flatheads.
 
All, I have two identical starters for my flathead. One had the gear that freely spins up and down the screwed shaft. The other does not. Which one is correct?

Please note that WRA originally described the 2 starters as *identical*.

Jack E/NJ
 
Bendix Breaker

Rich in FLA,
Do you have the little support tab at the front of the starter that ties to an oil pan bolt? Apparently, that little tab helps in preserving starters.
Yes, I always make sure that little bracket is correctly installed.

The problem I'm having is a starter rebuilt and converted to to 12 volts that has so much torque that it's distorting springs and even breaking Bendixes... actually breaking pieces apart. (Yes, it's really been converted to 12 volts and by a guy who knows what he's doing.)

Nearly every time it's engaged there's a momentary metal-on-metal screech, like the Bendix's round inboard "nut" is contacting the bearing retainer on the end plate. This has been driving us nuts for months, trying to figure out exactly what's happening and what to do about it.

No part of the Bendix is coming into contact with any part of the bellhousing or mounting plate.

I'm using a strong 12-volt Optima battery. Right now, I have a loaner 6-volt starter in the engine, and after three days of normal-sounding starts, I'm beginning to hear that same screech again.

Any been-there insights?
 
If they look the same , one is stuck at the end of splines.I had that problem and changed the drive. The setup i have now is a gear drive that Flatomatic sells,very small looks like a lawnmower starter.It was about 10 degs the other day with 30 weight and turned well, using there new alum starter plate.
 
I made a resistor from a 12 gauge welding rod for my 6v starter on 12v on my A, it starts a bit slower than 12v but I think its nicer on the spring,I tried a modern starter gear but after 7000 klms it snapped the scroll.
Lawrie
 
Million-watt Resistor!

I made a resistor from a 12 gauge welding rod for my 6v starter on 12v on my A, it starts a bit slower than 12v but I think its nicer on the spring.
Man, I'd love to see a picture of that! How did you mount it so it didn't set the car on fire? Was it bright enough to read by when the starter was turning?

 
All, I initially thought they were identical, but once I put them side by side they are very close but rebuilt one has a different front plate. Gear is on the bottom of the shaft on the rebuilt one and doesnt move on older one.

I plan installing the rebuilt one in my 59B Flathead. Thoughts?

002.jpg 003.jpg
 
The gear should move freely on the spiral-splined shaft.

Jack E/NJ

On the rebuilt one, it does, the other is firm.

All,

I have two identical starters for my flathead. One had the gear that freely spins up and down the screwed shaft. The other does not. Which one is correct?

Close but not Identical once I put them side by side. Front mount plate is larger.

All, I initially thought they were identical, but once I put them side by side they are very close but rebuilt one has a different front plate. Gear is on the bottom of the shaft on the rebuilt one and doesnt move on older one.

I plan installing the rebuilt one in my 59B Flathead. Thoughts?

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