Yet another timing question.....

Rocketdog1

Rocketdog1

Member
Hey all-

Went for a cruise around the county today (damn, these things are fun :D), and I'm starting to think that my timing is way out of whack. She seems to run OK as long as I have the timing lever fully advanced all of the time. This obviously isn't right. For the record, the GAV is set about 1/4 to 1/2 open.

I guess what I'm looking for is a little affirmation that I'm on the right track here.

Tomorrow, assuming the weather cooperates, I'm going to start from scratch and reset the timing per the instructions that have been posted about a zillion times here on the FB. Is that snazzy little distributor wrench an absolute requirement, or can a guy get by with a standard wrench? I also need to dial my carb in, instructions for which are in the "owner's manual".

Above and beyond that, my new exhaust should be here tomorrow. YAY!! So that's also on the list of things to do. The existing muffler is pretty much blown out, and the manifold gasket has a leak as well (also being replaced).

Still working out the generator bugs, but that's another thread at another time.

Does all of this sound fairly reasonable? Am I missing something? Is there anything else that I should be looking at?

As usual, thanks in advance for any/all of your help and suggestions.
 
MODEL A TIMING "FINAL" VERIFICATION

1. With the horizontal protruding rotor metal tab pointing approximately to the 4 o'clock position in the distributor body, turn switch "ON" and open "closed" ignition points with an insulated handle screw driver and a spark should jump from the loose end of the coil wire to ground on the engine's head ........... which clearly illustrates that a spark immediately leaves the coil and travels directly through the rotor, through the spark plug conductors, to the spark plug gaps "immediately" ....... but, when? Hmmmmm, "WHEN" the points are are "OPENED".

2. Next, push the spark lever all the way up, remove spark plug no. 1, (nearest radiator), rotate engine, and when the timing pin slips in the timing gear, piston no. 1 should be "WHERE? Hmmmm, at top dead center, (TDC) ...... and "WHEN"? ..... Hmmmmm when the timing pin slips "in".

3. When timing pin slips in at TDC, with spark lever retarded ...... points should open, and immediately cause No. 1 spark plug to spark.

4. However, with lose play in the rotor, loose play in distributor drive gear, distributor shaft turning counter-clock-wise with engine running; cam screw turning clockwise to tighten distributor cam, and after trying the 79,647 different methods to time a Model A and just when you "think" you have it right ........... why not try to "SEE" the exact timing.

5. FINAL CHECK: Fully retard spark lever, disconnect and remove all (4) plug connectors so engine cannot start, place loose end of coil wire near engine head, rotate engine and "WHEN" timing pin slips in, the coil wire should immediately spark ............... Hmmmmmm, when? ...... Exactly "WHEN" the points "OPEN".
 
" Is that snazzy little distributor wrench an absolute requirement, or can a guy get by with a standard wrench?"

No, but I'm starting to think there are some who can benefit from it. I just don't understand the problems with timing, especially if you do it the way Marco has posted. You just slowly hand crank the engine until the timing pin drops into the cam gear dimple. At that time the rotor should be positioned exactly as in this picture of my distributor. The position of the spark lever doesn't matter if you time it this way.
 

Attachments

  • Timing Rotor Position.jpg
    Timing Rotor Position.jpg
    66.7 KB · Views: 50
Tom Wesenberg said:
" Is that snazzy little distributor wrench an absolute requirement, or can a guy get by with a standard wrench?"

No, but I'm starting to think there are some who can benefit from it. I just don't understand the problems with timing, especially if you do it the way Marco has posted. You just slowly hand crank the engine until the timing pin drops into the cam gear dimple. At that time the rotor should be positioned exactly as in this picture of my distributor. The position of the spark lever doesn't matter if you time it this way.
Click to expand...

Or just our built in wrench called fingers....
 
The wrench is dandy for making making small corrections & it's WAY better than scarring up the cam by holding it with PLIERS!
Bill W.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top