Frame Spreader or Float- A Motor Mounts?

We had a lot of trouble getting motor back in the car the last two times it was out this year as it is very tight between the motor mount and the engine assembly. We have given up so far on the getting the engine back in the third time.

We are thinking of trying a Frame Spreader or switching to Float-A- Motor mounts, as they are supposed to allow easier engine installation.

Has anyone tried the Frame Spreader that Snyder’s and other vendors sell?

How do those that use Float- A Motor mounts like them?

Thanks,
 
i thought it was pretty normal to have to use a frame spreader... if its extremely tight you may have a bent framerail.

also grease up the mounts to allow the engine to slip in easier when it does.
 
I have NOT tried the Frame Spreader. But it does not take too much imagination to see that it should work GREAT ! As you know, you only need just a little bit wider of a spread for the engine to slip in easily, and this tool does just that.

Float - A - Motors do have a vibration dampening effect, but they also present a couple of new problems - ground weakening, and cant (is that the right word?) that the rear of the engine sits, making the fit on the wish bone ball out of engineering specs.
 
I have NOT tried the Frame Spreader. But it does not take too much imagination to see that it should work GREAT ! As you know, you only need just a little bit wider of a spread for the engine to slip in easily, and this tool does just that.

Float - A - Motors do have a vibration dampening effect, but they also present a couple of new problems - ground weakening, and cant (is that the right word?) that the rear of the engine sits, making the fit on the wish bone ball out of engineering specs.

yes "cant" is correct haha had to look it up myself - i was thinkign of cantor which is all wrong...

CANT:
noun
1.a salient angle.
2.a sudden movement that tilts or overturns a thing.
3.a slanting or tilted position.
4.an oblique line or surface, as one formed by cutting off the corner of a square of cube.
5.an oblique or slanting face of anything.

back on topic i thought it was suggested that the solid ford factory motor mounts act as another cross member....
 
I use a frame spreader from Snyders. I've had the engine in and out 3 times and I've always done it alone. No helpers. I'm really happy that I have the spreader.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
 
I am getting ready to pull my engine next week. Do you have to loosen any body bolts to spread the frame? How much spread are we talking about? 1/4...3/8...1/2 inch? I plan on changing the rubber pads too.
 
Marc,

The engine will pull out with slight persuasion, going back mine needs spread about an eighth or so. I add a little more then can giggle to align the motor mount bolts.

A's Always
Dave
 
I made my own frame spreader out of heavy walled pipe and steel plate.I copied it from the picture in a catalog,if you have a welder you can make it in a afternoon.It makes motor replacement easy just loosen the 2 front bolts that hold the cowl to the frame and all you need is about 1/16 to a 1/8th more clearance.
 
Thanks for input. I think it would only take about 1/16 or 1/8 for the motor to fit back in. We did try removing 1 cowl bolt and oiling the mounts but still didn't get it in. We could almost get it by prying. The mechanic helping me said he has installed lots and lots of Model A motors, and mine is especially tough.

Right now, I am favoring buying a frame spreader. I am not sure I want to try "Float-A-Motor- mounts as I have also heard the motor has less to "push" on when propelling the car forward. Any other comments on "Float- A-Motor would be appreciated.
 
I would think it would be better to cure the reason you are taking the engine out every other month instead of modifing the car to make it easier to remove the engine
 
After installing the engine the first time without a frame spreader, I had one available for the next time. The next 2 times convinced me to get rid of that POS engine, so hopefully I won't have to do that again.
 
I used Snyder's frame spreader to replace the rubber pads on my rear motor mounts. I don't think it would have been possible without a spreader.
 
I just did mine last month. I replaced the old piece of "Carpet" someone put in place of the rubber mounts. I bought my Original Style Rubber mounts from Snyder's and they fit perfect!
I used a $20.00 small hydraulic jack from Harbor Freight. It does pump up on its side.
I placed it against the top of the trans case and the frame. I was able to spread the frame very easily. Note, only spread enough to slide mounts into place. I also removed the front body mount bolts.
 
Or you guys could just make one, here's the one I made. I bet I have less than $10 dollars in it and maybe an hour or two of time. Why is everyone on here always wanting to spend money and not get dirty?


 
Or you guys could just make one, here's the one I made. I bet I have less than $10 dollars in it and maybe an hour or two of time. Why is everyone on here always wanting to spend money and not get dirty?

Some of us are just not endowed with welders, lathes, milling machines, etc, etc. Have to rely on those that do.
 
Some of us are just not endowed with welders, lathes, milling machines, etc, etc. Have to rely on those that do.

Carl
This didn't require anything more than a welder and even that could possibly not be used. The center section is part of a scary rear spring spreader I picked up for next to nothing. I then made the arms with the plates welded on the ends. They could have just as easily been made out of threaded pipe with floor flanges threaded on the ends. I plan to upgrade it with a chain "sling" to hold the transmission when the engine is pulled alone.
I guess I just like making things more than buying. I'm no master fabricator, just a guy with a 110 mig and a big *** drill press. No mill, lathe etc.. Not that I don't wish for them.
I'm glad to hear though that the legend of how well endowed I am has reached Alaska!!:eek::D:D
 
Back
Top