Brakes and kingpins! Fun stuff

Mr.Tube...
"Speaking of the wheel bearings, it appears there is only 1 hole for the cotter pin on the A? Made it a bit harder to get the adjustment perfect as opposed to newer cars that have two off set holes."

If you use original nuts on the spindle, I believe the originals had 8 slots, whereas the replacement one only has 6. (I think, I may be wrong) That would make a difference!
 
Jim Parker Toronto said:
Mr.Tube...
"Speaking of the wheel bearings, it appears there is only 1 hole for the cotter pin on the A? Made it a bit harder to get the adjustment perfect as opposed to newer cars that have two off set holes."

If you use original nuts on the spindle, I believe the originals had 8 slots, whereas the replacement one only has 6. (I think, I may be wrong) That would make a difference!
Click to expand...

I think they are original. I just had to put them a little tighter then I would've liked.

I'm aggravated it seems like the guys who worked on this did absolutely nothing right. Don't get me wrong, I know its easy to insult another guys work but everything they did I've had to do again. :mad:
 
Personally, I always assume the worst when working on a job that someone else has done, that way I don't get dissappointed very often! I also get pleasantly surprised when something was done right, and this puts a smile on my face. Its hard if you are doing something just once, to get it right the first time. When I built my first A, I didn't put any cotter pins in because I knew down the road, before the car got on the road, that it would be coming apart again! ( I was right! )
 
MrTube said:
I think they are original. I just had to put them a little tighter then I would've liked.

I'm aggravated it seems like the guys who worked on this did absolutely nothing right. Don't get me wrong, I know its easy to insult another guys work but everything they did I've had to do again. :mad:
Click to expand...

Spin the wheel and let the weight of a 12" adjustable wrench in the 3 o'clock position be the amount of tightening force on the nut. Or, if you have a common 6" plier grab the nut and give it a light snug while the wheel slowly spins. I don't like to go any tighter than this, and if the cotter hole doesn't line up at this point, I'd rather back off to the next hole.

This summer I checked a guy's front wheels and had to tighten the left side two full turns and the left side 1 1/2 turns. Yep, that's what you call loose!
 
Mrtube .........................
It is super important to adjust your rods. You can have your brake shoes adjusted perfectly, but if the rod on one side is longer than the other, your car is going to pull to the other side. You must have the slack removed, at the clevises.
MIKE :)
 
Cone-shaped roller bearings should be set-up slightly loose (no pre-load), as the weight of the vehicle will force the bearings outwards agains the spindle / axle.

Ball-type wheel bearings do a get a pre-load.

If roller-bearings are cinched-up too tight, they will burn-out !

Mike made a good point about brake rod adjustment, but when adjusting your brakes, always start-out with the wdege adjustment at the wheel.
 
Will be adjusting the rods first thing Monday. Will also loosen the wheel bearings slightly to be sure there is no pressure on them.

I appreciate everyones help.
 
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