What do you check before driving a new Model A?

Neil Mylar LakewoodCA

Neil Mylar LakewoodCA

Well-known member
Before I started driving my recently purchased Tudor, I did a safety check.
The previous owner had paid a tire company to install new tires and tubes. The lug nuts on all 4 wheels were snug, but not as tight as they should have been, especially the left rear which can easily come off. Two of the valve stems were at an angle and one was not pulled out as far as it should have been.
I adjusted all the brakes and verified that all brake rods had cotter pins.
I readjusted the tension on the fan belt. It was too tight.
I verified that the fan had no cracks.
There were other things that I checked, but what kind of things do you check when you get a new A or even a non-new car before touring season?
 
I just started a Model T that had not been run in 8 years and on recommendations of others took out the spark plugs and added about 2 tablespoons of MMO on top of the Pistons in case the rings were dry in the cylinders. Then I drained the oil, only added about 3-1/2 quarts to the pan and the other quart down the distributor shaft hole in the head to put new oil in the valve galley where the channels for the main bearings fill. Then cranked the motor with ignition switch off about a dozen times to get some oil on the rod bearings.
Put fresh gasoline in the tank and drained about 1/2 cup from low end of carburetor. Checked the fluid level in the radiator and installed new battery. Polished and adjusted points.
Turned ignition on with gas lever at 3 o'clock and spark all the way up. Set GAV to 1 turn open, pulled the choke and stepped on the starter button. 5-6 cranks and she started!

Our touring season here on the Texas Gulf Coast is about 10 months of the year so I never need a pre-season check up and just do regular maintenence. It's just too friggin hot here in July and August so I switch to on of my more modern rebuilds that has AC!
 
New car instructions from Ford:
 

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I always drop the pan and check it out. You never know what you will find in there. It sometimes takes a trowel to clean out the pan top and bottom. While I'm in there I give the whole bottom end a look and check the bearing clearances.

The other thing I do is completely go through the brakes. Once it goes, I want to be damned sure it will stop. I just pull them apart, make sure everything is moving freely, and lube all the mechanical linkages.

Good luck, and enjoy the new one.

Ken
 
KGBnut said:
I always drop the pan and check it out. You never know what you will find in there. It sometimes takes a trowel to clean out the pan top and bottom. While I'm in there I give the whole bottom end a look and check the bearing clearances.

The other thing I do is completely go through the brakes. Once it goes, I want to be damned sure it will stop. I just pull them apart, make sure everything is moving freely, and lube all the mechanical linkages.

Good luck, and enjoy the new one.

Ken
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I know I'm at risk of being accused of hijacking this thread but I hope you don't put any lubrication on the clevis pins. Oil or any other similar substance will attract dirt which will wear out the pivots faster than leaving them dry.
 
picked a AA up a short time ago, test drove it before I purchased it. Before I drove it for the test drive, checked the oil, water, felt the brakes via the pedal and slow stop, condition of the tires & air pressure , play in the steering, play in the front end. Drove it about a mile listened for trans and rear noises. Bought it and loaded it on the trailer. Got home and put it on the lift, changed the oil in the engine, trans and rear, checking it how it looked, feeling for grit and had a magnet in the drain pan looking for metal. changed the anti-freeze and flushed the radiator and engine looking for any rust and problems. Drained the gas tank which was almost empty looked into the tank for what I could see, refilled with alky free gas. Complete lube job, checked the brakes and drums completely as well as all linkage, greased the bearings. Did a load test on the battery, checked for the stop light working, then took the new toy for a nice ride... And all this even though the guy I bought it from had a great rep. and has been into model As for over 40 yrs and his father before him.
 
Synchro909 said:
I know I'm at risk of being accused of hijacking this thread but I hope you don't put any lubrication on the clevis pins. Oil or any other similar substance will attract dirt which will wear out the pivots faster than leaving them dry.
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Didn't you hear.............roads in America are paved in gold.........we don't have dust.:D

I keep oil or grease on all the car's moving parts. Dry parts rust, squeak, and rattle due to rust wearing them out.
 
If you want to get some dry lube into clevis pins, you can try this. Get some graphite powder from a hardware store. Mix a bit in with some quick dry solvent, making a dilute solution. Methylated spirits is a good option, or some solvex 1425. Drip some of the mix onto the pins and it will wick in between the pin and clevis. Once the solvent evaporates, dry powder will be left, lubricating the pin, and because it's dry, not attracting dust and dirt.
 
Neil Mylar LakewoodCA said:
what kind of things do you check when you get a new A or even a non-new car before touring season?
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I check to make sure I have Larry's phone number with me. I didn't have it when I bought Sarah and that was a mistake since I'm not support echelon level mechanic. To cover my butt I carry three phone numbers in my wallet, Hagerty Insurance, AAA and Larry to cover ALL occasions and/or mishaps. ;)
 
All good ideas. Old sailing ships saying " Fix what can kill you in port everything else can be fixed at sea."
 
FWIW: Precautions From Different Schools of Thoughts:

You never ever need to check your Model A wheel lug tightness occasionally, as recommended years ago by a few vintage Model A owners .......... until .......... driving down the road at about 50 mph and you see your wheel flung out in front and rolling forward ..... that is ..... before your backing plate begins to throw sparks after it hits the paved highway.

After installing a new backing plate, it is guaranteed for the next 50 years or so, nobody will ever need to remind you to check your Model A wheel lug tightness.
 
dave in australia said:
If you want to get some dry lube into clevis pins, you can try this. Get some graphite powder from a hardware store. Mix a bit in with some quick dry solvent, making a dilute solution. Methylated spirits is a good option, or some solvex 1425. Drip some of the mix onto the pins and it will wick in between the pin and clevis. Once the solvent evaporates, dry powder will be left, lubricating the pin, and because it's dry, not attracting dust and dirt.
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at work we just mixed dry graphite powder with rubbing alcohol in a spray bottle. Alcohal seeps in places bringing the graphite with it then evaporates. Less harsh on your skin than some of those solvents out there. Not to mention cheaper!
 
In addition to items mentioned above, check rear axle nuts for tightness and cotter pins in. Check spindle nuts for proper adjustment and cotter pins in.
 
Lots of smart aleck answers come to mind, like "does it start", "where is my AAA card", etc.
But seriously there are a few considerations that lead a person to look deep. Who's car is it and did they take care of it? You like the person, but were they organized and meticulous or just a social person? How long has the car been sitting? How well cared for does the car appear, if you have known the car and owner for years, you may have toured with them and know the car. If you are cold to the car, it is your first experience, well then walk around it, look it over, look under the hood, put your foot on the brake pedal, and go slow.
 
31 Woody said:
Lots of smart aleck answers come to mind, like "does it start", "where is my AAA card", etc.
But seriously there are a few considerations that lead a person to look deep. Who's car is it and did they take care of it? You like the person, but were they organized and meticulous or just a social person? How long has the car been sitting? How well cared for does the car appear, if you have known the car and owner for years, you may have toured with them and know the car. If you are cold to the car, it is your first experience, well then walk around it, look it over, look under the hood, put your foot on the brake pedal, and go slow.
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agreed - same could be said for modern stuff too, my rule of thumb - if its more than 2 years old or more than 30K miles every fluid and filter gets changed once i own it. brakes (or at the least remove wheel and see how much life the pads have) get a look over and the front end checked for loose stuff. usually an alignment check is like $10 so its worth having that done.
 
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