Head removal/any tips?

G

guy1unico

Well-known member
I have a leaky copper gasket (new) on one side. The other head is fine never a problem (graphite gasket) so I'm leaving it alone. I'm not sure why it is leaking but it will be a bear to get that head off. Do you have any tips to ease the process?????????????
Thank you.
 
49 - 53, 3 3/8" bore, dome pistons, relieived.
I had to do a piston oil ring repair on the passenger side. The driver side is fine.
Only had 1 copper gasket from Speedway in my shop.
 
If it's just had a new head gasket, the head will come off no problem.
It's only if it's been on a good while (years and years) that it sometimes is a bear to remove.
Just whip it off.
Martin.
 
Loosen the bolts and start it. I have heard that works sometimes. Any problem with doing it this way?
 
I welded a piece of 1/2" rod to a spark plug and made a slide hammer. Works excellent!!
It took me about two minutes and the head was off
 
If this is an 8BA engine, it has bolts not studs. When the bolts are removed, what is left to hold the head on???
 
37 Cab said:
Loosen the bolts and start it. I have heard that works sometimes. Any problem with doing it this way?
Click to expand...

That works well if you have compression. I had an engine with a bunch of stuck valves and no compression. Had to make a head puller.

Sounds like the engine in question here probably has compression.
 
Make 2 of these: cut a piece of 3/4" id tube about 10" long and weld over an old spark plug. Weld a 6" long piece of same tube to the top to make a T, which is the handle. Screw each into front and back plug hole, you can rock them to break the seal, and then use them to pull the head.
 
I have heard of using rope and putting it in thru the spark plug hole and filling the piston bore. Obviously make sure that your piston isn't at TDC. Once you got enough in there, rotate the engine so that the piston compresses the rope and pushes on the head. I have only tried this on non-flathead engines.
 
Guys, it recently had a new copper head gasket on the side he wants to remove. Therefore, undo the nuts/bolts and take the head off. No need to make special tools, or any start it up when loose or rope down the plug holes, it should just pull/wiggle off with your hands.
Martin.
 
I think we should go beyond removing the head and replacing the gasket. There is no inherent technical reason for the copper gasket to "leak". As Martin said, if the head has been on for a relatively short time frame removal should be simple/easy. But, determining where the leak was, and why, is important. How was it decided the gasket is leaking? Was there an external leak or combustion leak or what?? If the mating surfaces are flat and without damage and if a reasonable multi-step torque procedure(without over torque) has been followed the copper gasket will withstand cylinder pressures more than double that which a stock engine can produce. It should be noted the introduction of detonation can not only destroy gaskets but also mechanical parts. Using a pliable sealer at the threads of the 8BA style engine is helpful in stopping coolant leaks around the bolts. Of course, a careful look for any cracks is also advised.
 
In my Model A I have threaded thin rope through the spark plug hole until no more will go through then turned the engine over by hand That will pop them off normally -Karl
 
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