Model A Noobie journal

[Art Newland]

There more than just the starter that is hot when the car is off. The small wire that goes to the starter post with the battery cable feeds the electrical system, lights horn coil etc... So in a nut shell there is a lot of circuits that are juiced with the battery connected and the car off... The disconnect eliminates all this

That's exactly what I mean, the wire that runs from the starter up into the terminal block. Put a (much smaller) switch in that wire to disconnect the power from the rest of the car. Much easier, smaller, cheaper, to install than something that can handle 200 amps? Yes this leaves the starter hot, but I can't imagine that being a problem?

 

[Mitch//pa]

That's exactly what I mean, the wire that runs from the starter up into the terminal block. Put a (much smaller) switch in that wire to disconnect the power from the rest of the car. Much easier, smaller, cheaper, to install than something that can handle 200 amps? Yes this leaves the starter hot, but I can't imagine that being a problem?

If you want to go that route many here do it with the fuse set up on the starter open the hood and remove it.. Personally I like the batt kill inside the car out of sight and easy to get to without opening the hood all the time...

 

[1955cj5]

This is what you are thinking of..

https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/safety-fuse

To me, there ought to be another fuse from the generator cut-out to the lighting harness....

 

[Tom Wesenberg]

On the subject of tires and tubes, I find it best to store my new spares by putting the inner tubes in the tires and airing them up just enough to fill out the shape.

If you store inner tubes folded in the bag you might be in for a rude awakening when you go to use them. This is especially true when they are made in the far east.

 

[Art Newland]

This is what you are thinking of..

https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/safety-fuse

To me, there ought to be another fuse from the generator cut-out to the lighting harness....

Yes, I like that.
You could pull the fuse if you wanted to kill the power to the car, or just leave it, it would protect the car in case something shorted in the harness. A fuse for the lighting system makes sense too. Then if something shorted in the lighting harness it could leave the car in a running condition.

 

[Art Newland]

On the subject of tires and tubes, I find it best to store my new spares by putting the inner tubes in the tires and airing them up just enough to fill out the shape.

If you store inner tubes folded in the bag you might be in for a rude awakening when you go to use them. This is especially true when they are made in the far east.

Looks like mine were produced in the tire capitol of the world... Viet Nam!
In all honesty, the tires (Lucas) look very good, the sidewalls look beefier than the tires I took off. The tire that was in the spare position on the back of the car was REALLY old looking. Was "ALLSTATE" brand, didn't look like I was in "good hands". It might have been fun to fill it up with air just to watch it fall apart. Saved my best old tire for that duty, has a "new-ish" looking tube, should make a good spare. Once I start venturing further from home I'll also carry a new tube.
What do you all carry for a jack? One thing my car is missing is a crank, can't bring myself to buy a sparkling new one, gonna have to find an original.

 

[CWilson]

I use a Model T jack. Easily lifts my truck, and fits under my seat.

 

[1955cj5]

I just carry a small hydraulic bottle jack....and a can of that tire inflation stuff, along with a bicycle tire pump...have't had to use them yet, but I don't venture to far from home....

 

[Art Newland]

Well, I guess for the time being, I'll just put my mini HF floorjack in the rumbleseat if I feel the need. There will be a big swap meet up here in May, maybe I'll find something cool. The weather was just too crummy to drive today, first day in quite a while it had to sit idle. I did a couple of small (fun) jobs. Put all the proper bolts in the horn, added the gaskets around the diaphragm. Got rid of the drippy copper fuel line and leaky vacuum line. New gasket in the sediment bowl and cleaned it out. Doesn't smell like an open gas can now! Smells like a tire store now.

 

[Art Newland]

After logging in 112 miles since I brought my coupe home, it has fallen victim to the dreaded clogged fuel line disease! Now I need a plan to clean out the fuel tank.

 

[Tom Wesenberg]

After logging in 112 miles since I brought my coupe home, it has fallen victim to the dreaded clogged fuel line disease! Now I need a plan to clean out the fuel tank.

Not too bad a job. Just let the fuel drain through a cloth over a funnel into a container, then flush it through again several times until most of the loose junk is out. BE SURE to install the small pencil filter in the tank valve before you reinstall it. This filter will stop most of the fuel related problems, as well as help save the valve from being scratched by rust particles.

 

[Art Newland]

I finally dove in and flushed the crud out of my fuel tank. Nothing like slopping around in gasoline for 3 or 4 hours.
Can't imagine why the old filter quit working...
A new valve with filter is now installed and she pulls like a mule now! Sadly my idle is now worse, too rich and won't adjust out. When the last owner put the new carb on it, he could've at least cleaned out the sediment bowl. I've been reading about Tillotson carbs, I'm expecting to find some plugged up idle air-bleed ports.