Newbie with several questions

If you plan to replace the entire radius rod socket, you may have to change the bolts.

Tie a string (I used dental floss!) to each bolt. you can then remove the locking pin, push each bolt up in turn and remove through the center hole. Re-tie the string to the new bolt and pull it back through into place.

This is what the inside looks like, but the felt pad is missing...this is on an AA transmission but it's the same idea.
 

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The rubber ball cap uses 2 cast iron parts, and it doesn't need a hole for the oil.

Your new kit will have two stamped steel parts, and the top half will have an oil hole.
 
Your rear backing plates - the 12 diameter plate that supports the brake shoes and all the operating parts is an early 1928 backing plate. It does not have a separate emergency/parking brake shoe. You need to get yur hands on a later version of the backing plate/s. -the kind that HAS the separate emergency shoes.
 
OH, now to address the mess on the front of the block under the water pump. Odds are there is a crack under all that dobbing weld. Very common place for Model A blocks to crack - as in winter freezing. I patched a crack in that area 25 years ago on my 28 pickup. Was prepared to use JB Weld and a machinery mechanic from a local refinery cane along and offered, then brought me, some stuff they use in the refinery to patch cracks in large compressors. Called Devcon. Kinda pricy. but that patch is still there.

Engine is no longer in the pickup, but it still runs and still does not leak.
 
Thanks everyone for their help. So far I've installed the Real Deal Oil Seal in the bellhousing. I did get a new radius ball kit ordered from Snyders. I have never used them as I have always used MAC'S. I haven't got to see if the oil seal fixed the problem for I am waiting on the radius ball kit. I did start cleaning up the front of the block until my power went out. A electrical pole broke down the street.
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I had a crack in the same location on my old engine. I opened the crack a little with my dremel and made a couple of perpendicular grooves for the JB weld to grab onto. I cleaned it thoroughly with acetone and forced the JB weld into the crack. It sealed completely but I only ran the engine for about 4 months and then it was replaced with a rebuilt engine.

Since you are not dealing with a pressurized cooling system JB ought to do the trick.

Bar's radiator stop leak may do it too....
 
Update. I installed the Real Deal Oil Seal. Still have a leak. I assume it's safe to safe it's from the motor now, lol. Drop oil pan and check vent tube?
2nd adjusted brakes and wow they are a lot better!
3rd my reverse lights aren't working well now since the install of the Real Deal Oil Seal.
4th brake light switch is intermittent at best. What switch do you all use?
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Why the plastic spacer for the brake switch? Remove it and see if the action improves.

Oil and grease the brake switch shaft and it will work better, prevent rust and save wear.

A&L makes the best brake switch and they have the brass bushings for the rod.
 
Sorry to interrupt, I'm loving this thread... and the help from the Barn folks... but:

Reverse lights?? I am confused... can someone clarify please? My brain is thinking backup lights....
 
stouchton said:
Sorry to interrupt, I'm loving this thread... and the help from the Barn folks... but:

Reverse lights?? I am confused... can someone clarify please? My brain is thinking backup lights....
Click to expand...

Me too..

Something someone added maybe?
 
It might be the picture but shouldn't the brake light switch be rotated 90 degrees
clockwise??

Bob
 
Keep in mind that antifreeze in the oil removes its lubricity & will wear out those parts in need of oil rather quickly depending on the mixture & the more you run the motor .
I know this from expirence .

Bob
 
stouchton said:
Sorry to interrupt, I'm loving this thread... and the help from the Barn folks... but:

Reverse lights?? I am confused... can someone clarify please? My brain is thinking backup lights....
Click to expand...

Backup lights is what I was thinking as well. I've only eversseen one Model A with backup lights
(mine ;) )
 
I took the switch apart and it was dry inside but everything looked new. Cheaply made but new. But it did seem to work better after I removed the plastic spacer someone had installed.

With that said I drive her in to work again today and reached 61 mph judging by my GPS on my phone.
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