Radiator: 2 or 3 rows w 10 fins?

T

TheFargoA

Junior Member
Good evening,
I see that Brass Works (including directly and through Mac's) sells a "modern" 2-core, 10 fin per inch, radiator that is described as the best for touring and hard driving cooling. The site describes the two rows as designed for maximum efficiency. So, is it okay to assume that their 2 row radiator is as good or better than a 3 row radiator? The only 3 row radiators I see have only 5, 6, or 8 fins. I know that fins are more important that rows, and that's what you pay for. I drive my A very hard in mountainous terrain and at 6,000 + elevation, so maximum cooling is a must. Thank you all for your comments.
 
" I know that fins are more important that rows,....."

Both more fins and more tubes aid cooling, but more tubes also allows more coolant flow and capacity. I'd go for more tubes.
 
My rule of thumb in any old vehicle that may have seen water only for years is to use the largest radiator possible and let the thermostat sort out the temperature.

Eventually some tubes will be blocked by stray rust chunks and hopefully there will be enough tubes left for the next days outing. Hasn't let me down so far.

I have matured a bit tho and recently bought one of those gano filter things ...
 
Does the specifications say how large the tubes are? My aluminum radaitor in my MG has tubes that are one inch deep, which hold a lot more coolant than the normal 5/8 inch tubes.
The model A coolant pump moves a lot of coolant, and most modern radiators have smaller and thinner tubes than the originals, which causes the coolant to overflow out the top of the radiator at speed. It is therefor important to have a lot of capacity for flow.
I have a brassworks 3 row radiator on my tudor, and the tubes are thinner than original, so I have installed a thermostat to slow down the flow to prevent overflow. I have not had any trouble with overheating, even on the hottest days, climbing hills, or driving at 50 mph, and have not needed to add coolant in several years.
 
I have a 2 row, 8 fin per inch radiator on my bone stock 29 and it overheats on hills or when the ambient temperature is upper 80s+. It is clean and flows well and was installed by my grandfather years ago. A 3 row radiator is planned. Go with the 3 row.
 
You may consider the recored 4 row - 10 fin radiator from Berts in Denver, they come with original tanks and brackets, it as worked flawless in my Double A in our local mountains, I believe in all the radiator you can get for your money.
 
I've had a 2 row 10 FPI brassworks radiator before and it worked great in Texas heat while driving aggressively. I sold the radiator to a friend and it's still working great. I had another radiator recored. It's a 3 row with a modern VT core in it. The brassworks would usually run around *180 when it was 105* outside. The Modern VT core usually runs 160*-170* when it's 105*. Both were pressurized radiators. I will say that recoring was cheaper than buying new.
 
I have a 3 row (local rad shop) & never had a temp problem . but I do flush every spring & fall . radiator is like 7 yrs old now ...........
 
When you do spend the big bucks, be sure to put an old sock over the radiator inlet for a little while so it will catch the junk that may be in your system. No need to use that new core as an expensive filter.
 
Thank you all for your suggestions. We have a regional radiator shop that is well acclaimed, and he said that he can do 3 cores and 10 fins with all brass and copper for about $480. I was thinking that Brassworks would be more guaranteed though, although about $200 more expensive - and two-rows that are only said to be more efficient(?)! I have 3 rows now with 5.5 fins per inch, and it's not enough for the type of driving I do. It's fine in the valleys, but not the mountains. I don't think 4 cores would fit as the current one is 1" from the fan. I will look further into all of your suggestions, and let you know what I ultimately do. Thank you much!!!
 
Hello again,
I talked with Lee at The Brass Works today. He spent about 40 minutes with me on the phone discussing the details of what one needs in a radiator for a Model A, as well as the artisan quality he provides in his products. He was extemely knowledgable about Model As, and he well-explained the differences between different types of radiators on the market. I will go ahead and ask him to build me a great radiator for my A. I look forward to the experience working with him as well as the end-product. I'll let you know how it goes.
 
TheFargoA said:
Hello again,
I talked with Lee at The Brass Works today. He spent about 40 minutes with me on the phone discussing the details of what one needs in a radiator for a Model A, as well as the artisan quality he provides in his products. He was extemely knowledgable about Model As, and he well-explained the differences between different types of radiators on the market. I will go ahead and ask him to build me a great radiator for my A. I look forward to the experience working with him as well as the end-product. I'll let you know how it goes.
Click to expand...

Did he go into anything about preventing debris from the block entering the new radiator? And what he recommends to prevent that
 
Last edited:
My Brassworks radiator is like MCORRELL's (post #6) and overheats just like his does. I'm very disappointed.
I'm considering copying what I have seen others do - extend the depth of the sump so it holds more oil and put tubes through it front to back to cool the oil as well. Maybe fins on the outside of the sump too.
 
If you are overheating with a new radiator, you either plugged it up with junk from the engine, or you are getting combustion gases in to the water jacket. Tighten those head bolts. If it is getting the gasses in there, it should overheat at low speeds while lugging.
 
Jacksonlll said:
If you are overheating with a new radiator, you either plugged it up with junk from the engine, or you are getting combustion gases in to the water jacket. Tighten those head bolts. If it is getting the gasses in there, it should overheat at low speeds while lugging.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply, JacksonIII.
No combustion gasses in the water jacket - head is sealed well. Water jacket was cleaned thoroughly when the engine was rebuilt and has had anti-corrosion additive ever since.
 
TheFargoA said:
Hello again,
I talked with Lee at The Brass Works today. He spent about 40 minutes with me on the phone discussing the details of what one needs in a radiator for a Model A, as well as the artisan quality he provides in his products. He was extemely knowledgable about Model As, and he well-explained the differences between different types of radiators on the market. I will go ahead and ask him to build me a great radiator for my A. I look forward to the experience working with him as well as the end-product. I'll let you know how it goes.
Click to expand...

Any update on your new radiator?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top