Another engine ID issue

It has had the .040 tin can sleeves remove, that makes it .080 overbore. Ford use to make a .0825 piston, you remove the sleeve and hone a couple .000 and you got a new engine. hard to find those pistons now, a couple of years all I could find was two for a 9N tractor so I bored it another .020 and use .100 over pistons. You can really bale hey with that. Walt
 
you seem to have a 221 ci block with the sleeves pulled out (80 overbore) with 40 overbore so technically 239 ci

He read the pistons at .040 and measured the bore at about 3 1/4, so I would assume the pistons are 239 +.040. Can a 221 normally take that much bore or were they just lucky?
 
It's gonna be getting on the thin side at 0.040 over 239. Those tin sleeve blocks arnt the thickest in the cylinder wall department.
I have one here that's 0.060 over 239, so it's do able.
Martin.
 
Question: Did you redo the valve seats when you put the new valves in? Or just drop them in? If you just installed new ones, did you diechem the faces and at least do a lap to see if they appear to seal? I've never installed new valves without regrinding the seats - but heck, I'm sure others have. Just trying to make sure you have good compression and valve sealing!

If somebody knocked the sleeves out of it, then they had to bore it another .100 on top of that? 3.0625 + .080 + .100 = 3.2425. My guess, maybe it left the factory with a 239 bore --> 3.187 - and it has been bored again since then. Stranger things have happened!

B&S
 
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I love the flathead. I grew up under my step-dads' racecars. From the late forties
to the mid fifties, he would let me hustle tools he needed from the box he used as a tool box. Every time I would ask a question he would answer "wait and see". A lot of wonderful memories. He was a flathead builder. I was sent to my fathers and never could go back.

I know that has nothing to do with my flathead, but for some reason that thought came to mind. I don't really care what engine I have, I was just curious to know what engine I had. The attachment I have for the flat head is so, that it doesn't matter which engine I have. I have a flathead, and they are all great engines.

Now this engine - 221/239 is still a very usable block I assume. I will never race this engine, at 72 I'm a little passed the racing. I just want to put one together that I can take my honey, and cruise.

You guys are just great, and I appreciate and love the way everyone digs in. It is a great feeling. Thanks Pat
 
Bored and stroked - - yes I lapped the valves good because the seats looked fine. The engine has no ridge in the cylinders. Very little carbon anywhere. I've put an Isky cam in it and wanted to put new lifters. So then I got a real deal on a valve setup including springs and all keepers so that is where I'm at. Thanks for your input it means a great deal to me. Hah - I need someone over my shoulder. I talk way too much. Thanks - Pat
 
I took this picture just to make sure. I'm rather sorry it isn't a 239, but just the same 221 is better than nothing.

Prawbly;
You can see the bump just above the pan surface of the block.
Look at the machined surface beside that bump to see the casting
core hole ( 2 on each side). Check to make sure the plugs are not
rusted, damaged or potential leakers.
Long crankshaft, flat intake surface, casting core holes = 39/40 block.

Nothing wrong with that 81 series 221 (original) flathead!
Great! Kind of an adventure sorting out the current specs!
Seems you have just about what you wanted.
Thanks for sharing!

Gene Tulsa
 

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