32 tie rod adj nut torque

Lawson's correct; tighten the slotted screw just enough to permit insertion of the cotter pin in the end of tie rod/drag link. That's how it was made.
 
I don't understand, "just tighten in up good and tight". Tighten it until it bottoms out? If one does that, then what good is the spring?

Dave, if I understand what you are saying, tighten until there is slight tension/drag on the 'ball'?
 
If the balls are worn some make the adjustment with the wheel turned all the way to l or r, tighten it down, back off 1/2 to 1 turn to fit cotter

after adjustment check the toe setting
 
Kurt is correct, you may need to compensate for wear on the ball stud or on the cupped end of the slotted screw or both. Normal wear on the ball stud will eventually cause it to become out of round which then results in uneven spring tension and uneven steering effort.

I'm not sure how one measures spring tension in the enclosed space of a tie rod/drag link end, but my repeated experience with all NOS components is that threading the end screw just enough to insert the correct size cotter pin results in a heck of a lot of spring resistance.
 
Chuck Sea/Tac said:
Starting point on model A is 25% of spring tension.
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I have never found this to be based on any ford specs, it is something based on low quality parts, in the era many cars had similar tie rod systyems, most are set up as backed off just enough to get the cotter in, to 1/2 to 1-1/2 turns from coil bind( I looked in a lot of factory repair books to see what specs other manufacturers used), this 25% I think came from the use of "gyp" parts that the spring couldn't survive coil bind, and worn balls to precvent binding at extreme left--right lock, adjusting the tie rods with the wheels turned to lock prevents this, if the spring tension is too low every bump you hit will move the ball in the socket contributing to increast chances of "death wobble, and the feeling of kickback in the wheel as the spring is compressed---then releases

when modern tie rod ends are made the spring clearance is set so it is fully compressed,but not increasing the joint tension beyond the spring tension----what amounts to coil bind backed off to first cotter hole
 
Ok, let me re-phrase the question. What is the (simplest) step-by-step assembly procedure for NEW tie rod/drag link ends? (how does one "know" what the correct tension is on the adj nut?)

All new, (Mac's) "balls" caps, springs, adj nuts.

Housings are sandblasted, re-threaded, powder coated. "Balls," caps are polished.

Polished stainless, nuts, bolts, grease fittings, cotter pins.

Torque. Figuratively with a torque wrench, or "by feel" with a "mechanic's hand"

Picture is a "dry fit" before any "pretty stuff" has been done. Picture is the pitman arm drag link end.

Thanks.
 

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Your photo above is not original Ford car equipment. All of the early V8 drag links are one piece and not adjustable (Total overall length). The original Ford V8 tie rod ends do not have as many pieces and there is only one hole for the cotter pin. The female threaded end (tie rods only) has a boss for a pinch bolt. With all the above, if your car has a dropped front end and the steering arms may have been modified. If so often the original fixed length drag link needs to be modified in order for the steering box to be in the center position for straight ahead driving. An adjustable drag link is the solution to this problem .
 

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From Dennis Lacy, Early V8 Garage, from his excellent how-to build of his 32 pickup:

"..........Screw them in until the inner springs are bottomed out then back off the plugs one full rotation. Align the cotter pin holes in the housings with the slot in the plugs to the nearest position still screwing them back out. The ends need to be loaded or the tierod will act like a Pogo Stick and you'll get the dreaded “death wobble” over bumps at low speeds."
 
hotrodA said:
From Dennis Lacy, Early V8 Garage, from his excellent how-to build of his 32 pickup:

"..........Screw them in until the inner springs are bottomed out then back off the plugs one full rotation. Align the cotter pin holes in the housings with the slot in the plugs to the nearest position still screwing them back out. The ends need to be loaded or the tierod will act like a Pogo Stick and you'll get the dreaded “death wobble” over bumps at low speeds."
Click to expand...

THANK YOU! A well stated, understandable, simple set of instructions! Bless you.

To answer the "non OEM" drag link end comment. I had a adj drag link made, to help complement the improved steering, a Hudson steering box will provide, over then OM '32 box.

No dropped axle, OM "heavy," lever shocks, etc. "very" traditional.
 
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