Plugging the Water Holes in a B block

rogeroadster

rogeroadster

Senior Member
Having read Jim Brierley's book many times over, I see he recommends that you plug 4 of the water holes in the B block to support the head gasket. The picture in the book isn't all that clear so I thought I'd ask before I have this done. If I use the head gasket as a guide, it's the four holes (inline) in the center of the block and the two holes on the ends of the block remain open??
Possibly the Maestro himself could confirm this for me?

Also, using a cast iron Cragar head, what kind of results might I expect if I don't plug the holes?

Have pics but can't get them to upload...
 
The B block I did only needed the 2 holes near the center to be plugged. I threaded the holes and used set Allen head screws threaded to just a hair lower than the head surface. I then covered the screws with JB Weld, and as it was setting up I used a razor blade to scrape it lever with the block.

If they aren't plugged you can get coolant into the cylinder. Always lay the head gasket on the head, and then on the block to make sure every bit of the fire ring is supported by metal and compressed when the head is bolted down.

I posted pictures and the story of it about three years ago, and a search might find it here.
 
Got my pics to upload here showing the six holes in the block. I was thinking using set screws and epoxy filler as described thanks for the reply.
 

Attachments

  • block.jpg
    block.jpg
    38.5 KB · Views: 140
  • head gasket.jpg
    head gasket.jpg
    41.9 KB · Views: 122
I also tapped and plugged the two holes near the center. But the funny thing is that I ran that motor for 20 years without plugging the holes, and it never leaked, and that was with a cast iron Winfield head. I guess I was lucky.
 
I recommend plugging 4 holes, the ones kind of centered in the block, on the left to right centerline. 2 holes in the center of the block and one at each end. Sorry about the pics, the whole book was done by an amateur! The purpose is to support the gasket and prevent water leaking into the cyl.
 
I don't understand why no one mentioned the "B" gasket.
It is designed to accommodate the little holes.
What am I missing?
Thanks, Al
 
Al, This area is narrow to start with, then over 80 years has gotten rusted so that the hole is bigger, giving less support for the gasket, and the gasket is weak in this area due to size. As 2manycars pointed out, they don't always leak. With higher compression, it more apt to leak or blow-out.
 
Jim Brierley said:
Al, This area is narrow to start with, then over 80 years has gotten rusted so that the hole is bigger, giving less support for the gasket, and the gasket is weak in this area due to size. As 2manycars pointed out, they don't always leak. With higher compression, it more apt to leak or blow-out.
Click to expand...

Jim,
Thanks for the explanation. Now I understand.
Al
 
Jim Brierley said:
I recommend plugging 4 holes, the ones kind of centered in the block, on the left to right centerline. 2 holes in the center of the block and one at each end. Sorry about the pics, the whole book was done by an amateur! The purpose is to support the gasket and prevent water leaking into the cyl.
Click to expand...

Hey Jim,
I totally disagree with you here ! No amateur did this (your) book and my newly done Winfield B is a testament to that fact :) ! Followed your guidance pretty faithfully , in this build. Fired it off for about 30 seconds , several days ago (oil pressure test). NO leaks from the Burtz one piece seal that you suggested; modified an A oil pan for the B as you suggested; modified oiling system for full pressure rods/mains; plugged the four water holes in block as instructed; bigfoot Chrysler lifters and 80lb seat pressure; 1.75 in. intakes...and on/on ! Sharing your vast experience / knowledge in your book made me (neophyte...who the heck put that ph in this word, instead of an F;)) feel pretty darn secure when I saw Cliff's modified V8 flathead pump at 40 lbs....and no leaks :D !! Lots of other stuff that you shared in your book, done to this B also. It roared like a Lion :eek: !!

So, this was the best low buck instruction book that I have ever purchased. I thank you again for sharing and recommend anyone interested in A/B tech/info, to buy this well done engine build book.
 
hardtimes, Thanks for the kind words! The book was fun to write, plus it was a learning experience for me. Would you believe I've sold over 1,000 books! and I thought I'd have trouble selling more than 100. Still sell 1 or 2 a week.
 
hardtimes said:
Hey Jim,
I totally disagree with you here ! No amateur did this (your) book and my newly done Winfield B is a testament to that fact :) ! Followed your guidance pretty faithfully , in this build. Fired it off for about 30 seconds , several days ago (oil pressure test). NO leaks from the Burtz one piece seal that you suggested; modified an A oil pan for the B as you suggested; modified oiling system for full pressure rods/mains; plugged the four water holes in block as instructed; bigfoot Chrysler lifters and 80lb seat pressure; 1.75 in. intakes...and on/on ! Sharing your vast experience / knowledge in your book made me (neophyte...who the heck put that ph in this word, instead of an F;)) feel pretty darn secure when I saw Cliff's modified V8 flathead pump at 40 lbs....and no leaks :D !! Lots of other stuff that you shared in your book, done to this B also. It roared like a Lion :eek: !!

So, this was the best low buck instruction book that I have ever purchased. I thank you again for sharing and recommend anyone interested in A/B tech/info, to buy this well done engine build book.
Click to expand...

I agree, it is an excellent book and I have incorporated many of the mods in my B engine including a Brierley cam. I just waiting for the sequel on overhead conversions.
 
Sequel??? I can hardly spell that. Besides, I've used up all the words that I know. Maybe an addendum but as of now even that is not in the works, but thanks!
 
SO is this also a good Idea for a B head on a B block? Or is it only needed in a higher compression set up?
 
FWIW:

With absolutely no leaking problems, I ran an "A" Police HC head on a "B" block without filling in the holes in the "B" block -- Permatex No. 2 head gasket sealant was always used.

Former owner ran same set up on a converted "B" marine engine, with no holes plugged in "B" block, from 1932 until about 1949 with absolutely no problems -- again, Permatex No. 2 head gasket sealant.

Appears plugging holes in Faith among Model A Religions began to later vary -- after some heads became warped ..... engine heads, that is.
 
The B block with A head that I plugged the holes also went for a year or two with no leaks, but when I removed the head I found the holes were on the very edge of the gasket. That owner was lucky it never leaked.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top