Engine weight

D

DWMOONEY

Junior Member
Hello just getting started on a restoration of my 1931 Model A coupe. I have it disassembled down to removing the engine. Can some one tell me what the engine and transmission weigh? I know I need to get some of the manuals, any suggestions as to which ones to purchase first? Thanks
 
Les Andrews, The Model A Mechanic Handbook (maroon/red one). I found this to e essential and if I couls just purchase one this would be it..
 
yea, its not too heavy, still need to buy or borrow an engine hoist is best but can be done with a come-a-long ;)
 
Tom's 500 lbs sound close When I did my engine I use a small 1 ton hoist and it was fine. I found the spark plug type lifter in I think the 3rd hole (it was 4 years ago) made it easier to get the engine out and in . I know the idea of only the threads of a plug holding the engine may sound scary but it works well at least for me.
 
I just had a complete running engine, including manifolds, flywheel/PP & accessories (but no ******) shipped in a crate. Total weight including the crate was 480#.
 
Taken from " Model "A' Miseries and Cures " , it states , Engine Weight : The weight of the Model "A" engine including the clutch and the transmission is 473 pounds . Dont know from personal experience though .
 
"The Ford Model A" by George DeAngelis, et al., lists 475 lbs including clutch and transmission (Section 2, page 18 of 2nd Edition). "How to Restore Your Model A" Volume 7 (Shipping Data on page 125) lists the following net weights:

456 lbs for A-6000 engine
517 lbs for AA-6000 engine
350 lbs for A-6005 engine.

Insofar as I (Skip) could determine, none of the above specify whether this is the dry or wet weight, but I suspect it's dry.

Also, here are some weights extracted from various FordBarn posts (principally by Tom Wesenberg if I recall correctly):

473 lbs – engine, complete (w/clutch & transmission)
160 lbs – engine, short block (w/head studs & crank pulley)
25 lbs – cylinder head
19 lbs – flywheel housing
12 lbs – Pressure plate
63 lbs - flywheel
3 lbs – clutch disc
10 lbs – engine pan
3 lbs – dipper tray
3 lbs – valve cover
2 lbs – timing gear side cover
4 lbs – timing gear front cover
28 lbs - crankshaft
6-1/2 lbs – camshaft (w/nut)
1-1/2 lbs – piston (w/wristpin & rings)

Any corrections/additions would be appreciated.
__________________
Skip Keyser
 
Aok said:
Tom's 500 lbs sound close When I did my engine I use a small 1 ton hoist and it was fine. I found the spark plug type lifter in I think the 3rd hole (it was 4 years ago) made it easier to get the engine out and in . I know the idea of only the threads of a plug holding the engine may sound scary but it works well at least for me.
Click to expand...
Put the lifting eye in the third hole without the transmission attached. Use the fourth hole with the transmission attached. With the transmission attached, the brake and clutch pedals have to come off first to clear the steering column, and also the shifting tower has to come off too to clear the firewall.
 
I use this handy little tool (designed & manufactured by Bill Stipe). It grabs two spark plug holes and gives you several places to hook on to for whatever balances best.
 

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I suggest not installing the forward motor mount until the engine is in the bay. I tried doing with the mount installed thinking it would drop in. It didn't. I removed the mount and she slid in perfectly. "My two cents"
 
The first picture below shows what I use to lift engines. I feel using 2 spark plug holes is a little safer, even though 1 is probably OK. I used 2 dinged up "take a part spark plug bases" to insert carriages bolt though. The setup works well with a one ton lift like in the second picture.
Rusty Nelson
 

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