steering box oil

1930 coupe said:
The pictures show a leak location that many people overlook. The scribe marker shows the maximum oil level before it leaks out of the slot. You can be careful and not overfill it, or you can fill the slot with sealer.
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Your post about your column leaking in this area really helped me. I found that after rebuilding my column, that I had a leak at this very location. Luckily, I hadn't tightened the clamp enough. Without your descriptive post and pictures, who knows how long it would have taken me to find the leak.

Now I have no leaks(modern sector housing) and I'm running the 600W I bought from Jerry Isbell.
 
While I agree the Penrite mentioned is good for the steering box and very few reports of leaking. I have always wondered if anyone has tried a mix of the 600W and Stazon chain oil? We used to use it on the main chains when I worked in a packing house years ago. We applied it to the chains using a brush that had an air oiler to keep the brush wet with oil. Very seldom did we have any oil from the chains dripping onto the hanging beef on the kill floor. Decent lubricating properties and stayed on the surface where applied. Rod
 
Rowdy said:
While I agree the Penrite mentioned is good for the steering box and very few reports of leaking. I have always wondered if anyone has tried a mix of the 600W and Stazon chain oil? We used to use it on the main chains when I worked in a packing house years ago. We applied it to the chains using a brush that had an air oiler to keep the brush wet with oil. Very seldom did we have any oil from the chains dripping onto the hanging beef on the kill floor. Decent lubricating properties and stayed on the surface where applied. Rod
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Sure. Like chain oil on motorcycles, if it doesnt sling off, it probably wouldn't leak. How well would they mix?
 
I want to try the Penrite oil. Any suggestions on how to remove the current oil (600w) or would it be ok to remove most of the current oil and then add the Penrite? I don't want to disassemble the box to remove the old oil.

Would Penrite work in the transmission too. Any thoughts on that.
 
I mix about my steering box lube using 600W 60% with chassis grease. The mixture lubes well, flows freely, and doesn't leak out.
 
Penrite can been ordered from Restoration Supply Co.
800-306-7008 www.restorationstuff.com

It is really, really thick and a microwave only helps somewhat. It is very hard to get into the steering box so it should be equally hard to leak out. It is the only solution to a leaking steering box and in my opinion a newly rebuilt one.
 
Hi Folks:

After reading this posting I purchased the PenRite steering box oil from restorations Supply in California for my recently rebuild (but still leaking) Model A Roadster Pickup.

My question is: Do I need to empty the remaining 600W oil from the box or can I just add the PenRite Steering box oil to it. As always, Thanks for a great Forum!
 
I would just add it, the other will continue to leak out, re-check it in a weak or so and add more pennrite.
If you do research here I have been promoting it for about 4+ years. No Leaky.
Paul in CT
 
Photo of Penrite.
Tom Endy
 

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I am curious. Would any of you guys that have steering gear leaks rebuild an engine and leave the pan gasket out or use a warped head or a cracked side cover plate????
When you "rebuild" your steering gear, why don't you fix the leaks??
The type of lube used is immaterial in a properly rebuilt box as long as it has good mobility.
 
Pete said:
I am curious. Would any of you guys that have steering gear leaks rebuild an engine and leave the pan gasket out or use a warped head or a cracked side cover plate????
When you "rebuild" your steering gear, why don't you fix the leaks??
The type of lube used is immaterial in a properly rebuilt box as long as it has good mobility.
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It is my belief that most if not all "rebuilds" are just new parts in worn out housings. It is also my belief that the housings that have the needle bearings are more of a way to salvage the housings that are not being reproduced and are worn out. Bore it out larger to make it round again and insert the needle bearings to fill the space. This is my story and I'm sticking to it.
 
Mike V. Florida said:
It is my belief that most if not all "rebuilds" are just new parts in worn out housings. It is also my belief that the housings that have the needle bearings are more of a way to salvage the housings that are not being reproduced and are worn out. Bore it out larger to make it round again and insert the needle bearings to fill the space. This is my story and I'm sticking to it.
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You are right..
The thing is though, those housings can be sleeved, welded and remachined to new specs.
Needle bearings were never designed to be used in an oscillating application either.
I say, they didn't leak when new so they can be remade like new.
 
For a long time it wasn't possible to get the "1/2 way between grease and oil" needed for 1960's or so Holden (GM) steering boxes. I think that was why the steering lube was developed.
 
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