Fluid for hydralic shock

Houdini

Houdini

Senior Member
Attached are a couple of pictures of my shocks. I don't know if they are originals or not. I found that there is fluid in them, about half full. I see in the service bulletins to only fill them with glycerine, not oil

I don't know if what is in there is glycerine or not. It looks like a thick, light colored, honey like oil substance, but not sure what glycerine would look like.

What is the recommendation to fill these up. If glycerine, where do you get it.

I saw from previous posts, to test them, to disconnect the arm and push up and down to see if there is resistance. The arm looks like its attached in a similar manner like steering arms. Do you remove that big slotted end plug and does the arm come out easily, or is there a bolt that has to be removed. Any advice on how to remove and test?
 

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I don't think you should remove the arm. Just disconnect the shock link by pulling the cotter pin and unscrewing the plug on the top of the link. A little prying should free the shock arm's ball from the link. Be careful not to damage or loose any of the shock link parts. Once free you can move the shock arm up and down to see how it functions.

When I did this on my 29 tudor there was no resistance at all! Luckily have new Bill Stipe shocks in a box waiting to replace them. :D
 
pgerhardt said:
I don't think you should remove the arm. Just disconnect the shock link by pulling the cotter pin and unscrewing the plug on the top of the link. A little prying should free the shock arm's ball from the link. Be careful not to damage or loose any of the shock link parts. Once free you can move the shock arm up and down to see how it functions.

When I did this on my 29 tudor there was no resistance at all! Luckily have new Bill Stipe shocks in a box waiting to replace them. :D
Click to expand...

better than for them to be locked solid! haha:rolleyes:
 
The links are a pain... I'd. Remove the bolts to the frame..
I installed new stipe shock (new repo of originals) and it's tricky to get the links and all their parts together...

With the advice of Mitch and others. Installing shock help with cold grease to help stick and hold the links parts... I did install the arms and shocks on a bench as a unit...
 
If your not planing to mess with the links, I would remove the shock arms off the shocks then feel the resistance using a crescent wrench or open end that fits the shaft. The shock arm bolt has to be completely removed from the arm to slide off as it fits in a groove on the shaft....
 
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Thanks for the tips on how to test. How about what type of fluid to put in and where to get it?

do these look like original shocks?
 
I would also test the shocks the way Mitch said.

Looks like the left front fender bracket needs some repair where it bolts to the frame. I see this quite often.
 
Call robert Paul or John holland they are listed in the sticky above under shocks..
Both men are grade A honorable fellows and will help you over the phone with some info such as what they would recommend filling them with etc etc... It's free;)
This is their specialty
 
Here are the scans of the research done in the past on shock fluids in the attached PDF files.

I will add that slightly worn shocks may need thicker oil then listed to get something close to the original action. This is based on some incomplete experiements I started a while ago so the mileage may vary.

A properly working shock should be very very difficult to move using the original length arm just using your arm. See the attached PDF about testing. Note the time it should take to go through an arc.
 

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Mitch's advice is the way to go. You will regret disconnecting the shock links because they are a pain in the derriere to put back on.
 
I don't understand all the fear about shock links. When I replaced the rear shocks on my 29 tudor I also replaced the "dog bones" that were on it with the correct tubular links. Sure there are many parts, but working from the bottom up, and using grease to hold every in place they went on as easy as can be! Don't be afraid of the shock links. Take then off clean all the parts, get rid of the old grease, and repaint them. They are not that bad to work with.

This picture may help:
 

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Robert Paul-rebuilt shocks are filled with glycerin. If you have to top them off, get it at the drug store.
 
Those look like original shocks. They are not empty, and the outside are not heavily pitted, suggesting that these might be either previously restored / overhuled or otherwise in usable shape.

I would take the shocks off the car, leaving the arms attached. Test them to make sure they are working. If so I would dump the fluid in them, rinse out with isopropyl alcohol, and refill with glycerin.

Houdini said:
Thanks for the tips on how to test. How about what type of fluid to put in and where to get it?

do these look like original shocks?
Click to expand...
 
I too would leave the shocks installed and remove the arm for testing.

I wonder why some still use glycerin. Seems like Ford stopped using it around 1929 or so. Hydraulic oil can be had is various weights, different weights can be used depending on condition.
 
If your test of function shows that the shocks need to be adjusted you may have a problem.
Looks like the stem indicator is worn off.
Bob
 
Patrick L. said:
I too would leave the shocks installed and remove the arm for testing.

I wonder why some still use glycerin. Seems like Ford stopped using it around 1929 or so. Hydraulic oil can be had is various weights, different weights can be used depending on condition.
Click to expand...

Glycerin, like brake fluid DOT 3, will draw in moisture. I'd rather use a modern hydraulic oil.
 
Not to ruffle any feathers...
But, FWIW, though I've read lots about glycerin and I'm sure it was used extensively, I have also read about castor oil, which seemed to have had some popularity also. Here is some info on that:

http://books.google.com/books?id=PR...onepage&q=houdaille shocks castor oil&f=false

Additionally, I've heard that when hydraulic fluid and glycerin get mixed together, it turns into oatmeal (please don't eat this). It gums up the works!:( So be sure to drain and/or clean out whatever is in your shocks before adding anything.

Just my half-cent worth. Chuck
 
I have experimented using 90 & 140 hypoid gear oils, and with STP in the shocks on my 45B. Both worked well especially after the shocks had some wear. I found that hydraulic jack oil has too low a viscosity. Motor oil also works.

I continue to use the 140 hypoid gear oil in the shocks on my 45B. However, the recently rebuilt shocks on my 190A have glycerine, and they work very well too.

I need to make a test to learn if hypoid gear oil will mix with glycerine. If so, I will change over to the gear oil in my 190A.
 
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