steering arms

Be sure you get quality arms where the balls have a hole through them and are welded to the original shank, such as A&L does. I think Bratton's sells these and probably Bert's and Snyder's might also carry them. Cores are required, so don't do any damage in removing them. Let them soak with Kroil for a day or so, then use a brass punch and hammer to tap them out of the spindles.
 
Bert's does sell re-balled original arms. They are done correctly as stated by Tom. They don't re-ball "your" arm, but have many ready to go. Just make sure you tell them you want the same style as your arms, as there are slight variations. No core necessary. They just adjust the price accordingly.
They might even supply Bratton's and others. Call and check around on price.
 
I have a repo, short arm on my 31 sport coupe It steers good but has a larger turning radius. My driveway has a tight curve. I think I'll go back to the original,
 
I'm a newbie here, but called Bratton's about it, as I anticipate doing it when I do my king pins.
They said they don't do their's by drilling out a 1/2 hole and putting in new balls. The lady commented they they've seen some of the break even done that way, so they use a different techinque.

She told me they send them out to a guy that actually turns down the old ball to form a shank, and then he presses on a stainless steel ball over the newly formed shank, which is made from the original stem and ball. Then he welds around that.

They keep a supply already done and you need to first send in your arms. If your ball shank is too worn down, they will charge extra to build it back up. They claim this is a better way to do it and their price seems about the same as the others.

Anyone know any differently or have any opinions. I would just hope the pressed on with weld would be strong enough and not fail, as there wouldn't be much space to do the weld that way. but the stainless steel sounds better.

EDIT: Tom, after I typed this, I reread your description and now realize that you were describing the same thing. Sorry.
 
I believe Glenn is referring to the shortened pitman arm, his loss of turning radius is a symptom not the cause, it can be fixed.
 
fredski said:
Yes the problem with your driveways tight curve , go back to original arm ,problem solved..
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Fredski,
Reminds me of Ted. He had worn FLAT balls & adjusted the tie rod ends real tight to compensate. He couldn't even back up into the street & ended up in his neighbors' DRIVEWAY across the STREET:eek::eek::eek:
Buster T.:cool: always looks PUZZLED, when he hears the term, "RE-BALLING"?????
Bill W.
 
Brian T said:
Do a search for adjustable drag links, it as been discussed here several times, however the misinformed will take the easy way out and remove the short arm.
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Brian,
It's my conception that adjustable Drag Links are mainly to center the Worm & Sector/or center the steering wheel, & DOESN'T lessen the Turning Radius:confused:
Bill W.
 
What happens is that when you install a short pitman arm, the turning radius becomes longer going left and shorter going right. The adjustable Drag Link will center that and put it back where the long arm would have been.

Disclaimer: This is all hearsay on my part as I haven't installed mine yet.
 
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