Door locks question

Henry's Lady's Man

Henry's Lady's Man

Senior Member
First off, I'm pleading ignorance on door locks. My car has none (30 Town Sedan). Were cars really made with NO LOCKS? And What good are locks for the front and not the back handles? I've just never dealt with this, but don't feel safe leaving it unlocked while in a restaurant, etc. I trust MOST folks, but only ONE can change your mind.
Somebody with some "Locks 101" knowledge to get me started? Any info is appreciated, or send me to some links? Chuck
 
Chuck,

If you do not have the book "Automotive Hardware and Triming Supplies--1928-1938", get it. (there is one that goes to 1934 but it does not show all the necessary parts).

It shows you photos and part numbers of all the parts you need, or maybe all ready have or don't have.

Great reference book for any style of Model A/AA Ford.

Pluck
 
Steve Plucker said:
Chuck,

If you do not have the book "Automotive Hardware and Triming Supplies--1928-1938", get it. (there is one that goes to 1934 but it does not show all the necessary parts).

It shows you photos and part numbers of all the parts you need, or maybe all ready have or don't have.

Great reference book for any style of Model A/AA Ford.

Pluck
Click to expand...

Thanx Pluck. Yes, I need a book like that. I will find it with a little looking. I should have plenty of time to get it while I spend half the winter rebuilding my grunting starter in my "spare" (ha) time. Wish I could retire again.
 
FWIW: My late, (August), 1930 Briggs Town Sedan has a lock in the passenger door panel; not in the handle, like that of my early, (March) 1930 Coupe.

After removing the Town Sedan lock, the cylinder would not rotate, even after soaking in Kroil, PB Blaster, etc., etc.; and besides, this lock had no key.

I mailed the lock to Mr. Crabtree after discussing same with him .......... he said it was somewhat difficult, but he did free it up and provided me with two (2) working keys which matched the key number stamped on the lock.

Fully agree it is a good idea "today" ........... to lock any "unattended" car in any public parking lot.
 
H. L. Chauvin said:
...Fully agree it is a good idea "today" ........... to lock any "unattended" car in any public parking lot.
Click to expand...

This brings up a subject that has been on my back burner for a long time. My PU has a handle on the passenger side with a key slot in it, and I have a key that fits it. But it doesn't do anything.

The driver's door has the slide lock mechanism there, but here again, it does nothing.

What I would like to do is to put keyed handles on both sides so that I can actually lock things up as HL has suggested.

Any suggestions as to how to accomplish this?
 
What I did with my '30 Tudor was to switch the inside lock mechanism from the drivers to the pass. door and then switch the outside locking handle from the pass to the drivers door. This way, you can reach over and lock the pass door from the inside and then exit the car and lock the outside handle on the drivers side.

It was simple to rework the pass latch mechanism for the inside lock and there is some minor re-work for the locking outside handle to get it to point forward when installed on the drivers side. That was ten years ago and I can not remember what I did but it was relative simple.

If you have both handles that lock, you have to go to each individual handle to lock or un-lock them. The outside handle can not be locked or un-locked from inside the car.

That is what I did,

Chris W.
 
H. L. Chauvin said:
FWIW: My late, (August), 1930 Briggs Town Sedan has a lock in the passenger door panel; not in the handle, like that of my early, (March) 1930 Coupe.

After removing the Town Sedan lock, the cylinder would not rotate, even after soaking in Kroil, PB Blaster, etc., etc.; and besides, this lock had no key.

I mailed the lock to Mr. Crabtree after discussing same with him .......... he said it was somewhat difficult, but he did free it up and provided me with two (2) working keys which matched the key number stamped on the lock.

Fully agree it is a good idea "today" ........... to lock any "unattended" car in any public parking lot.
Click to expand...

H.L., Just like you, my 30 Briggs Town Sedan "HAD" a lock below the front passenger handle also; (so that's two votes for originality for year and model). There is now just a round cylindric slug someone inserted. I never gave it much thought. Obviously, since the hole is already there, that's how I need to go.
Thanx. More great info!!!

(Sorry your '30 Town Sedan has passed on in August, or did you mean LATE: as in built in August? Mine was built March 26).
 
No Sir ....... my Town Sedan did not "pass on" in August .... thank goodness .... yes, it was built in late August according to Mr. Crabtree who restored my original ignition switch ..... it has the late ribbed dash with round speedometer.

I never checked my frame number .... my current title has the Briggs Body number.


This is Mr. Crabtree's address & phone no. if you would like to find out more about door locks.

He is such a kind gentleman that I think he is the type of guy we would all like to be one day.

Mr. Dick Crabtree
P.O. Box 33
Pickstown, South Dakota
57367

Ph: (605) 487-7229

(After Mr. Crabtree restored my original ignition switch, I showed him a device I designed to secure to the top of the engine head in order to use an "all" original Model A ignition switch with an original unmodified Model B distributor ....... this same simple device can be easily removed in a jiffy, and the "all" original end of the original Model A ignition switch can be screwed into a spare Model A distributor in just a few minutes.)
 
H. L. Chauvin said:
No Sir ....... my Town Sedan did not "pass on" in August .... thank goodness .... yes, it was built in late August according to Mr. Crabtree who restored my original ignition switch ..... it has the late ribbed dash with round speedometer.

I never checked my frame number .... my current title has the Briggs Body number.


This is Mr. Crabtree's address & phone no. if you would like to find out more about door locks.

He is such a kind gentleman that I think he is the type of guy we would all like to be one day.

Mr. Dick Crabtree
P.O. Box 33
Pickstown, South Dakota
57367

Ph: (605) 487-7229

(After Mr. Crabtree restored my original ignition switch, I showed him a device I designed to secure to the top of the engine head in order to use an "all" original Model A ignition switch with an original unmodified Model B distributor ....... this same simple device can be easily removed in a jiffy, and the "all" original end of the original Model A ignition switch can be screwed into a spare Model A distributor in just a few minutes.)
Click to expand...

Truly a great resource. Thanx H.L.,
My pop-out ignition switch works fine and appears to be original, as much of my car is. I could consider restoring it before it quits working on me. Meanwhile, I could secure me a clone switch to use. I just might give this gent a call.
Chuck
 
OK, got my stuff. I'm not sure how to install these flippy locks, since there are no extra holes in the door panels near the door striker.
 

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Henry's Lady's Man said:
OK, got my stuff. I'm not sure how to install these flippy locks, since there are no extra holes in the door panels near the door striker.
Click to expand...

You need to cut a hole in the door panel to reach the mount for the lock. I removed the door panel it that area to locate the exact spot then re-nailed the panel back in place afterwards.
 
Mike V. Florida said:
You need to cut a hole in the door panel to reach the mount for the lock. I removed the door panel it that area to locate the exact spot then re-nailed the panel back in place afterwards.
Click to expand...

Thanks Mike. I figure there must be a stem for the lever lock to screw into, or else I need to buy that mechanism too. I've got the part book if I need to.
 
Henry's Lady's Man said:
OK, got my stuff. I'm not sure how to install these flippy locks, since there are no extra holes in the door panels near the door striker.
Click to expand...

You need to cut a hole in the door panel to reach the mount for the lock. I removed the door panel it that area to locate the exact spot then re-nailed the panel back in place afterwards.

See the location in the yellow squares;
 

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99% of the population could not drive a Model A one mile down the road, let alone start one.
But I am a firm believe in locks...it keeps the honest man...honest
 
burner31 said:
99% of the population could not drive a Model A one mile down the road, let alone start one.
But I am a firm believe in locks...it keeps the honest man...honest
Click to expand...

That was not the question asked, but like you while I have the locks I don't use them as there is nothing inside to take and the thief has no idea where the fuel shut off is never mind how to start it.
 
Mike V. Florida said:
That was not the question asked, but like you while I have the locks I don't use them as there is nothing inside to take and the thief has no idea where the fuel shut off is never mind how to start it.
Click to expand...

You've been a great help, Mike. I hate to touch my car unless I've got the whole picture first... I have a knack for messing things up. The pictures speak a thousand words.

And you're off and running on 20,000 posts!
 
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