Pot metal Carb. cleaner

D

duke36

Well-known member
Any recommendations for a carb. cleaner solution for the pot metal (tillitson style carbs) ?
Prefer not to bead blast as suggested in some threads.
Thanks.
 
Napa has a good 1- gallon carb cleaner can with a dunkable strainer . I can't remember the solution but it works well . I use it often on v8 carbs and jets and small carb parts
You can get it at napa
Larry
 
Rip,
If you are trying to remove that orange color that looks like stain then it will not come off, it was a process applied used as an anti corrosion coating, it can be reapplied but is somewhat spendy for the chemicals.
 
larrys40 said:
Napa has a good 1- gallon carb cleaner can with a dunkable strainer . I can't remember the solution but it works well . I use it often on v8 carbs and jets and small carb parts
You can get it at napa
Larry
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I used this stuff to clean my distributor and it worked well. But it is a little spendy like about $25 per gallon.
 
Fred K-OR said:
I used this stuff to clean my distributor and it worked well. But it is a little spendy like about $25 per gallon.
Click to expand...
At the Dealership, after soakin' a carb in Bendix Cleaner, I'd give it a dip in the CAUSTIC Hot Tank & it'd FOAM & FIZZ:eek: I "think" that was a help in cleaning out the passages:confused:
Bill W.
 
"I used this stuff to clean my distributor and it worked well. But it is a little spendy like about $25 per gallon. "

I bought the can of Gunk in the photo about 15 years ago to clean motorcycle carburetors. It still works just fine.

(I have no idea why the photo fell over on its side.)
 

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larrys40 said:
Napa has a good 1- gallon carb cleaner can with a dunkable strainer . I can't remember the solution but it works well . I use it often on v8 carbs and jets and small carb parts
You can get it at napa
Larry
Click to expand...

Picture of the can....worked great on my 53' Merc Carb.
 

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I just did a Winfield carb with a 50/50 mix of PineSol and water in an old crock pot. Left it cook for a few hours and then scrubed it with a toothbrush. Looks like new.
 
Ok Bill what is T S P , as in your cleaning solution? I hope this is not joke, but if it is you got the old plow boy. We dont get to town much, But I got an old crock pot for cooking car parts in and I bet they will come out finger licken good Don
 
Thank you for telling me the truth on this. Now oh wise men from a far, where might a wondering model A lover find such a fine product? I wait with Millers in hand and await your wisdom. AS always setting in AWE of allthings Model A. Good nite I hope the best for you all in the next year. Don south of Chicago and waiting for orders.
 
Indiana A. Lover said:
Thank you for telling me the truth on this. Now oh wise men from a far, where might a wondering model A lover find such a fine product? I wait with Millers in hand and await your wisdom. AS always setting in AWE of allthings Model A. Good nite I hope the best for you all in the next year. Don south of Chicago and waiting for orders.
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I get my TSP from a local paint store. It is used to wash walls prior to painting.
It also works well in removing grease from the garage floo
 
A couple-few comments to add:

1. The Gunk and Napa stuff are identical to one another.
2. On these early Carbs you have to be careful not to forget them for months. A longer soak can cause more harm than help.
3. For exterior/cosmetic purposes, a ride on the Wire Wheel is preferable to bead-blasting.
4. On ANY antique part it is preferable to start with the most benign process, such as Bill's TSP solution. If it doesn't work you'll still have the part!
5. Adding to the TSP I suggest the following:
a. Use Distilled or demineralized water.
b. A couple of drops of Dawn do well to keep whatever oily substances you may be removing under control. This aids in removing the part from its Bath.
c. Arm&Hammer 'Super Washing Soda' is a a great additive to the TSP Solution. (See also 'electrolytic rust removal'.) Works well on your laundry too!
6. Kerosene and/or Diesel Fuel do quite well at dissolving the gasoline varnish and re-liquefying whatever crystalline substance gas becomes if left long enough to petrify. Unsurprisingly, Kero is the primary ingredient to many --if not most-- of the 'special formula' products sold for this type of task.
7. Lastly, avoid at all costs ANY product containing MEK (methyl-ethyl Ketone).
8. I know this is far more than a few comments and that #7 above is NOT 'lastly' after all. But I opted to know the stuff above rather than learning to count.
 
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