Full flow oil filter

Yes it is a SS braded line from pump to exit fitting in side of pan. Location of hole needs to be so the crank does not hit the line from the pump. Other hoses are rubber pressure lines with high pressure hose fittings, not clamps.
 
To each his own. To me that MCF set up is the biggest pain in the butt, I've installed a couple, you have to mess with that braided hose inside the pan and make sure you don't twist it up and that special oil pump with the special bottom for the braided hose. To me the 90 percent is all that's needed, they say the rear main don't get filtered oil, the oil come right from the pump first, so what, all the oil in the engine gets filtered, I'm sure that rear main gets just as clean oil as all the rest of the engine. That's my story and I'm sticking to it. lol Walt
 
Lawrie, all my fittings are Aeroquip, along with compatible premium push-on Goodyear hose. I added the clamps just for extra insurance, but have never had or heard of a problem. Would appreciate any issues you know of, or have had with push lock hose.

My MCF system has been running for 20 + years with the push-on Goodyear hose. I still don't see how the other system can be called 90%. 2 of the 3 mains get filtered oil. That's 67% in my book.
 
Lawrie, all my fittings are Aeroquip, along with compatible premium push-on Goodyear hose. I added the clamps just for extra insurance, but have never had or heard of a problem. Would appreciate any issues you know of, or have had with push lock hose.

My local hydraulic supply shop told me you should never put clamps on push-on hose.
 
Here are a couple of pictures of the MCF installation on my '32. I made a bracket that bolts to the left side unused mount threads next to the crank.

Compaq%20back%20up%201448_zpsc5ldpvpd.jpg
Compaq%20back%20up%201456_zpskmelzmqy.jpg

Hey Bob. I think that is where I will try to mount my filter. It should clear stock wishbone and Red's headers.

Thanks

Tim
 
I like the MCF system I installed. I ended up clamping my hoses and I had one come off (probably installation error). I learned hard way to get 100% filtration as I had a valve spring break with fragments going through oil system ruining crank. After that I will always have a full filter system.
 
I put a MCF FF system on a '35 221 21 stud engine about 12 years ago. I put that engine in my '35 fordor sedan, car in avatar, in 2007. Has worked well for the last 8 years, ~ 25,000 miles. I made a right angle bracket that bolts towards the rear of the left side of pan rail. Screw on oil filter mount attaches to that bracket. Everything is down low and basically out of sight and does not interfere with any of the original suspension. I would never have poked new holes in the firewall or mounted this in a can on top of a head, JMO. Access to filter is done from below at the same time the oil pan plug is removed/installed. Have not had any problems with this system on my car.
 
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Yes the 95% just filters the front 2 Mains and the first 6 Rod bearings. Not sure where the 95% came from. I call it the 25 cent oil system because that's what the grub screw costs. You have to pay for the filter stuff no mater which system you use. And as Walt says, it works just fine. But either system is better than the original.
 
Just walked in from the shop. I will be installing it just like V8 Bob did. I am using a stock un-split wishbone and it clears just fine.

Thanks folks

tim
 
One thing about using the full flow system, is most after market oil filter housings don't have a bypass valve in them ,this is to allow oil to bypass the filter if it gets blocked BUT also on start up when the oil is cold and thick mid you rev the motor.
All modern cars have this valve in them, I used the filter head from a Holden Comodore V6 engine on mine.this had the valve.
Lawrie
 
I have no problem with oil pressure on start-up. I added a mechanical oil pressure gauge in addition to the stock gauge and get a more accurate account of what is going on. Start up, within seconds shows 60# on a cold start, and of course levels out as the engine warms up.
Found my old receipt and see that I've been running this unit for 9 years..
 
One thing about using the full flow system, is most after market oil filter housings don't have a bypass valve in them ,this is to allow oil to bypass the filter if it gets blocked BUT also on start up when the oil is cold and thick mid you rev the motor.
All modern cars have this valve in them, I used the filter head from a Holden Comodore V6 engine on mine.this had the valve.
Lawrie

The bypass valve is in the filter not in the housing. As an example the greater number of filter housings are sold with 3/4" x 16 thread for a reason.
That is the most common filter thread out there.All you need to do is screw a ford filter on there and you now have a bypass filter in the system,or read the instructions and discover the bypass reality.It really isn't an issue at all.
It would be difficult to find a 3/4" filter without a bypass inside.
You will find that a small block chevy has no bypass in the filter as it is in the adapter on the block,secondary to that it isn't a 3/4" thread and won't fit the adapter.

Lawrie what filter number do you use??

R
 
My MCF system has been running for 20 + years with the push-on Goodyear hose. I still don't see how the other system can be called 90%. 2 of the 3 mains get filtered oil. That's 67% in my book.

On the other system all the cam bearings two main bearings as well as six connecting rod bearings see the filtered oil. The rear main bearing and two connecting rod bearings see the oil directly from the oil pump. Been running this other system for well over 100,000 miles with no issues.
I do know a few guys who ran the MCF oil pump conversion who lost the oil hose connection in the oil pan boy the results were not pretty! Another fact about the MCF conversion the oil is returning to the engine into a 1/4 inch pipe fitting hole when you use the fittings supplied with the kit the ID of the fitting is now a lot smaller than the blocks internal factory passage the factory ID is .421 Without opening up the threaded hole on the Ford block to 3/8 inch pipe so the fitting insdie diameter is a lot larger the passage has now been restricted sure it works but ask yourself why did Ford make the internal passage this size if smaller was better. Sure the MCF conversion will work but the risk is there on that oil line inside the pan and the additional restriction to the oil flow into the engine good thing Ford over engineered the oil system
 
You can modify a stock filter can by cutting off can and mount a spinon filter adaptor then you can mount it on head like original i used a polished filter cover you can buy from speedwaymotors
 
The valve in the filter it self is NOT a bypass valve,its an anti drain back valve.
I use a filter that is made for all mid 60,s to the late 80,s GM cars here,(Holdens)
Lawrie
 
The valve in the filter it self is NOT a bypass valve,its an anti drain back valve.
I use a filter that is made for all mid 60,s to the late 80,s GM cars here,(Holdens)
Lawrie


Nope there is a huge difference between an anti drain back valve and bypass valve.Let me assure you that a typical ford v8 filter has both an anti drain back valve and a bypass valve.The anti drain back valve is used when there may be a filter installation that could allow the filter drain back after shutdown and the engine isn't run for a while.The bypass valve is there to allow the engine to get oiled when there could be no oil circulation due to cold starts or the oil is quite thick due to viscosity of cold oil. The same valve also lets the oil bypass if the filter media becomes clogged.What is the part number of the filter that you are using from a Holden?

Here for the non believers there is indeed a by pass pressure relief valve in some filter applications
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IeXcUWCy_Wk

http://www.baldwinfilter.com/TechTips201409.html

http://www.baldwinfilter.com/literature/english/TechTips/201409TechTipsByPassValves.pdf

R
 
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