Rear Spring

Dennis Pereira

Dennis Pereira

Well-known member
I removed The rear Spring On my 29 Standard Coupe project Today . This is not my favorite thing to do . And not suggesting anyone try this at home but its out and the only problem was the chain was to tight and made removing the tool harder . Home made shade tree tool the block of wood keeps the spring from moving downward and out of line . And the rear spring was just like the front new shackles and no grease anywhere .
 

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When you go back together I really like the Slip Plate graphite paint between the leaves. You can spray or paint it on. Napa stores sell it buy they may have to order it in for you.
 
It appears that a chain encircles your "shade tree tool" which may help contain it if something caused it to come loose under tension, say, if you used a hammer to tap out the shackle. That device scares the crap out of me because I was witness to one that popped loose, took flight, and embedded itself into a garage wall. Fortunately, it narrowly missed the head of the guy under the car, who was so speechless he forgot all of his four-letter words.
 
Friend, Jake (RIP) laborisly assembled his '34 Ford P.U. rear spring with a new center bolt, then discovered it didn't have enough threads to squeeze them together (+*^$%&*&$) Something to check, before you start screwing! (TIP# 171)
Bill W.
 
I know it is slow and messy, but I like the leaf removal method.
Use the body weight of the car to reload the leaves.
I've saw a rear spring let go on a 36 Ford coupe and boy was there some energy released when that took off.
Again, more by just plain old good luck nobody was injured/killed.
That car had reversed eyes which made things more difficult for the guys taking it out.

My buddy always replaces the center bolt with a new one when doing this work.
When you realise how much load that take and they are only mild steel.
He uses a longer bolt with lots of thread and then cuts off the waste when everything is set.
He now also uses the leaf replacement method.
 
ursus said:
It appears that a chain encircles your "shade tree tool" which may help contain it if something caused it to come loose under tension, say, if you used a hammer to tap out the shackle. That device scares the crap out of me because I was witness to one that popped loose, took flight, and embedded itself into a garage wall. Fortunately, it narrowly missed the head of the guy under the car, who was so speechless he forgot all of his four-letter words.
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Once the pressure is off no hammering the shackles slide right out but don't use your fingers just in case vise grips or channel locks will save your fingers .
 
Messing with the tension that is on these springs, especially the rear spring, is Daannggeerrous. Here is a tool I made to make taking the spring apart a lot easier and safer..... and for putting one back together. It is slow but takes most of the danger out of the process.

Made from four 14 inch long pieces of 1/2 in threaded rod eight flat washers and eight 1/2" nuts. What holds it together are two of the spacer that fit under rear springs. Very easy to build.

When I start assembling I use a 10"long piece of solid rod in place of a Center Bolt. That keeps the leaves aligned. When all is assembled and the eight nuts are tight, I tap out the solid 3/8" rod and tap in the 3/8" center bolt. Run the nut up tight and lock it down. Then release the eight nuts.
 

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My advice in the following order:

1. Make sure your life insurance is paid up.

2. Find a deep lake somewhere and toss that poor excuse for a spring spreader in it.

3. Order a proper rear spring spreader from Bratton's or Snyder.

Tom Endy
 
What is the safest grade of center bolt to use? OR, are they even marked? It's VERY apparent that this could be a DANGEROUS JOB! FORTUNATELY, I've not ever lost a finger & can still count. The Dog has counting problems, as he has only 4 toes on each foot & can only count to 16, plus the tail, of course!
Bill W.
 
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Tom Endy said:
My advice in the following order:

1. Make sure your life insurance is paid up.

2. Find a deep lake somewhere and toss that poor excuse for a spring spreader in it.

3. Order a proper rear spring spreader from Bratton's or Snyder.

Tom Endy
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That poor excuse for a spring has worked just fine on four model A springs and several jeeps . I would love a proper spreader but was hoping this was the last time it would be needed .
 
Dennis Pereira said:
That poor excuse for a spring has worked just fine on four model A springs and several jeeps . I would love a proper spreader but was hoping this was the last time it would be needed .
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Ok I ordered spring spreaders from Bert's I will wait until they arrive to finish the spring project I have two more to remove no use tempting fate lol .
 
Dennis Pereira said:
That poor excuse for a spring has worked just fine on four model A springs and several jeeps . I would love a proper spreader but was hoping this was the last time it would be needed .
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My apologies for being so flippant with my response, I should have chosen my words better.

The point I was trying to make is that the type of spring spreader you were using is extremely dangerous. No matter how many chains are wrapped around the spring, or how many times you used it, if the pipe end of the spreader should slip off the banjo bolt head it will launch like a cross-bow.

Many people in the Model A hobby do not realize the danger posed by a rear spring under tension.

There are two areas of rear axle assembly removal that should be considered. The first is use of an improper spring spreader that can launch. The second is removing a rear axle assembly from a car with the spring still attached. Once it is unbolted from the frame, that is safely capturing the spring, and brought out from under the car, all that tension is then being held by only a 3\8" diameter center bolt. If the head should pop off the bolt the spring leaves will fly 20 feet in the air and take your head with it if you happen to be standing over it. Then you have to consider that they are all going to come back down.

Tom Endy
 
Go to my profile and enter the album"My A". Scan through my pics (they're badly out of order). In there, I show how my spring bent a piece of 3/4 -10 "ready rod" and sent that lil' bugger past my right leg about a zillion MPH. Since that was at disassembly, I had to go through it again to get it back together. Spronnggg! and my homemade spreader provided minimal (none?)resistance to the force of the spring. I had made it of 3/4", sched. 40 water pipe and 3/4-10 threaded rod. I used my backhoe to reassemble and your block of wood with some grease for the knuckle to slide on. It's all there in the pics! Enjoy!
Terry
 
Terry said:
Go to my profile and enter the album"My A". Scan through my pics (they're badly out of order). In there, I show how my spring bent a piece of 3/4 -10 "ready rod" and sent that lil' bugger past my right leg about a zillion MPH. Since that was at disassembly, I had to go through it again to get it back together. Spronnggg! and my homemade spreader provided minimal (none?)resistance to the force of the spring. I had made it of 3/4", sched. 40 water pipe and 3/4-10 threaded rod. I used my backhoe to reassemble and your block of wood with some grease for the knuckle to slide on. It's all there in the pics! Enjoy!
Terry
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Terry my tool is a lot safer than yours but they both need to be used as anchors . Your lucky to still be with us .
 
Terry said:
Go to my profile and enter the album"My A". Scan through my pics (they're badly out of order). In there, I show how my spring bent a piece of 3/4 -10 "ready rod" and sent that lil' bugger past my right leg about a zillion MPH. Since that was at disassembly, I had to go through it again to get it back together. Spronnggg! and my homemade spreader provided minimal (none?)resistance to the force of the spring. I had made it of 3/4", sched. 40 water pipe and 3/4-10 threaded rod. I used my backhoe to reassemble and your block of wood with some grease for the knuckle to slide on. It's all there in the pics! Enjoy!
Terry
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Here 'tis:
 

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