disc brake conversion

You can buy the kit that has all the engineering worked out from the major parts suppliers and is ready to install. I can understand the cost factor and do it yourself.
I think some have used motorcycle rotors and calipers. I am guessing you have a small drum rear end by your handle. The rotor is cut out and welded to the original brake drum and then a mounting is fabed up for the calipers. It would still come down to having the proper tools and being able to get them setup correctly.
 
I have a question (I'm not a T owner and have only driven one on rural gravel roads, but): With improved brakes that easily slide the rear wheels, how easy is it to swap ends, especially on wet or dirt roads? With Rocky Mountain, etc. brakes that don't hold rolling backward downhill, can't the driver give it a little gas and feather in the low pedal? Hard on the band, but this seems better than helplessly flipping over!
Finally, are there any four wheel brake kits available? Purists may object, but with all the text-while-driving idiots on the road, you can't have too much brake!
 
The T when driven at Model T speed, which is slow lane stuff, the chance of going sideways and 'swapping ends' is pretty low. Only high speed or headed down steep hill at un-controlled speed could result in flipping.

The T is slowed by closing the throttle first, then brake pedal. A Rocky Mtn. brake install should never allow removal of the Ford transmission brake, that is adjusted to come on with full pressure of the brake pedal, lighter pressure will engage the external contracting brake band of the Rocky Mtn. The equalizer shaft is there to be sure each external band grabs at the same time, that prevents drift or rear end slipping sideways.

And the T must have its stock, fully functional emergency brake, internal to the brake drum, best grade new reproduction lined shoe, and be adjusted correctly to lock both rear wheels on an incline and hold the T there.

As for rolling backward, the main cause of roll over is the unsteady action of the skinny front end, the steering is wildly shaking rolling in reverse, as the front wheels will wobble severely at higher backward speeds. The front end camber is designed for keeping the front wheels tracked forward, when going backward, those wheels will wiggle wobble, that's just a fact.

Rolling backward must be controlled, with brakes (wheel, transmission, or emergency). If you don't have the brakes, or can't control for lowering speed going backward, then of course try the low pedal and throttle up to help, or to stall the engine if needed. Anything in an emergency, practice or experience is very helpful, as anytime the driver is un-familiar with the vehicle and its control, things can go bad fast.
 
I have converted a few (small drum) units using a Ford Explorer rear disc and caliper. With a little work by local machine shop the rear rotors bolt to the small drum hub and a caliper mount is weld to the axle or bolt on with bracket.
The master cylinder is a small tilton using a model A brake arm to activate. Works pretty well at all speeds...:)

These discs at Auto Zone etc are fairly cheap to by as a package ( discs , pads and caliper)..
 
I made mine from a honda 1000 motorcycle front brakes. I used both master cylinders one for the parking brake one to stop with. I picked them up at a motorcycle yard. You will have to do a little machining to the rear hubs and redrill the rotors to match the T hubs. With this setup you must use 26-27 rear housings to hold the bracket ti hold the calipers.
 
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