Patch Panels

Do you have any 'before' pics? what type of welder are you using? The frame fixture looks pretty well thought out, is it just for the Model A or do you use it for other chassis (I was noting the non Model A frame). Here is a pic of that rear fender before I started, and as it is now.

wd74 007sm.jpg

wd83 007Sm.jpg
 
RockHillWill said:
Do you have any 'before' pics? what type of welder are you using? The frame fixture looks pretty well thought out, is it just for the Model A or do you use it for other chassis (I was noting the non Model A frame). Here is a pic of that rear fender before I started, and as it is now.

View attachment 23429

View attachment 23430
Click to expand...

Nice work Will! Did you cut and patch, or did you do a lot of hammer and dolly work?
 
Tom, it was all cut and patch. I formed a paper pattern of the effected area then formed a steel 'patch' using a power hammer and a planishing hammer. I then scribed the patch outline on the fender, cut and tig welded, then hammer welded with the planishing hammer. I have the edge for the wire formed, but have not yet enclosed the wire.
 
Will, nice job on the fender patch. I am no where near being able to form my own panels.
The body was pretty solid as far as rust goes, but both rear quarters were pretty beat up and the rear subrails were missing, damaged.
Your right, the frame is actually a 1932, in my opinion the most beautiful design for a frame that Henry Ford made. I made the frame jig and put the frame together myself. I had originally built it to 32 specs, but then I found the 30 body, so I ended up pinching the frame front and rear to fit the contours of the earlier body style. I also channeled it about 1" and raised the stock crossrails in front, and replaced the rear subrails with ones that match the contour of the frame. I'm also replacing all the floor pans with flat steel.
 

Attachments

  • channel 001.jpg
    channel 001.jpg
    58.9 KB · Views: 90
  • channel 002.jpg
    channel 002.jpg
    63.8 KB · Views: 94
  • channel 003.jpg
    channel 003.jpg
    59.4 KB · Views: 89
  • channel 004.jpg
    channel 004.jpg
    56.2 KB · Views: 87
you guys have got it all figured out. i've got two areas of concern that i don't feel the need for any patch sheets. one is the lowest portion of the cowl sides, i've got some slight cracking just behind the sub-rail extensions, my trouble is how to correctly clean all the metal, corrosion, dirt, rocks, or what ever has fallen into that abyss. my intent is to clean to bare metal and weld as little as possible. the other spot is lowest front right corner of the fuel tank, cab side . where the tank bottom rolls to meet the side wall, just above the fastening lip , just a spot about the size of a thumb nail . what's a good way to attempt this repair . just keep picking ?
 
I noticed that no one mentioned Brookville.

Q. What gauge and type of sheet metal does Brookville Roadster use to reproduce parts?
A. All of the body and patch panels are made from cold rolled, draw quality, American made steel. All of our parts are die stamped in using the same gauge Henry used and are interchangeable with the original parts.

Q. Where are the parts and bodies reproduced by Brookville roadster made?
A. All of Brookville Roadster's parts and bodies are made in Brookville, Ohio. All of the sheet metal parts are die stamped in house in order to keep stringent quality check on all our parts and panels. All of our bodies are hand assembled in our plant from the ground up and Henry ford would have a tough time distinguishing our bodies from his

750-ton mechanical press (process Ford used)

0310sr_brookvle_03_z.jpg


There is just as much press under the ground as there is sticking above the ground


0310sr_brookvle_04_z.jpg


Workers feed steel sheet into the press, oil it and the dies, and activate the machine.

0310sr_brookvle_05_z.jpg


Even something as deep a draw as this Model A quarter-panel needs only one strike.
0310sr_brookvle_06_z.jpg


Once the press releases, workers remove the part and stack it for trimming.
0310sr_brookvle_07_z.jpg


0310sr_brookvle_09_z.jpg


Brookville took a restored Model A chassis and topped it with one of their body, fenders, and aprons. They took the car to the 1992 Buffalo, New York Nationals and--get this--won the show. Then they let the cat out of the bag to a very surprised, if not angry, group of restorers. If that crowd couldn't spot the difference, could you?
0310sr_brookvle_24_z.jpg
 
Last edited:
Will, I forgot to add, I just used a lincoln Mig welder. I had some burn through problems at first, but then I started putting a copper backer behind the welds and they work great. I just spot every two to three inches, let it cool, then repeat untill it's all filled in. Helpful hint, I had a hard time keeping the panels lined up before I started welding. Clamps are hard to get in some places, and working by yourself it's hard to hold the panel and clamp. My solution, some small, but very strong magnets from computer hard drives. They hold great and you can adjust the panel where ever you want. Just don't make the mistake of welding over the top of a magnet, it get's ugly.
 
Ralph Moore said:
My solution, some small, but very strong magnets from computer hard drives. They hold great and you can adjust the panel where ever you want. Just don't make the mistake of welding over the top of a magnet, it get's ugly.
Click to expand...

I also use magnets out of computer hard drives. You should see what a TIG arc does when it get close to the magnets, it puts on quite a show.
 
Wow, won the show huh??

I have looked at the car pretty closely every time I am up there picking up stuff. Below are some personal pix I have taken in times past.
 
Hope OSHA doesn't see the pic of the guy using a rag for a glove. :eek:
 

Attachments

  • 0310sr_brookvle_06_z.jpg
    0310sr_brookvle_06_z.jpg
    68.3 KB · Views: 51
'29wagon,

I've done similar repairs on a 70 pickup, It had dirt, etc. down in the front pillars. I used a vacuum cleaner with a home made attachment made from a piece of copper tube that was flattened out on the pick up end. I used it to scrape the dirt and rocks from the places I couldn't reach and the vacuum sucked it up.
You can also use high pressure water to push it out, but you have to make sure it's really dry before proceeding further. A heat gun or a hot Texas day will take care of it.
 
Hi Guys; just thought I might add 2 cents worth of information to those of you who want to weld sheet metal with a MIG welder and find problems working the repaired panel and hammering the welds... they do get hard. The next time you stop by your local "Good Quality" welding supply shop, have them check on a small roll of '70 - S2' mig wire; most of them will tell you that they do not make that grade, but trust me it's available. This wire is vastly softer than S6, will not work harden nearly as fast/hard as S6, and you will be amazed at the finish quality of this stuff across a panel - just don't cuss me out if there is a lot of bird nesting in the welder when this will not push quite as well as the harder S6 wire most of us are always using to weld frames or farm tools. One last quick tip for this wire - if you do find feed problems, try adjusting your ESO - electrical stick out / distance of the tip with the wire exposed, to the surface you are attempting to weld; you might wish to back it away slightly, but you will then have to adjust amps to match the new distance. This wire also works great for TIG, but is much harder to straighten in long lengths. Good luck to all - regards, Steve
 
steve hackel said:
Hi Guys; just thought I might add 2 cents worth of information to those of you who want to weld sheet metal with a MIG welder and find problems working the repaired panel and hammering the welds... they do get hard. The next time you stop by your local "Good Quality" welding supply shop, have them check on a small roll of '70 - S2' mig wire; most of them will tell you that they do not make that grade, but trust me it's available. This wire is vastly softer than S6, will not work harden nearly as fast/hard as S6, and you will be amazed at the finish quality of this stuff across a panel - just don't cuss me out if there is a lot of bird nesting in the welder when this will not push quite as well as the harder S6 wire most of us are always using to weld frames or farm tools. One last quick tip for this wire - if you do find feed problems, try adjusting your ESO - electrical stick out / distance of the tip with the wire exposed, to the surface you are attempting to weld; you might wish to back it away slightly, but you will then have to adjust amps to match the new distance. This wire also works great for TIG, but is much harder to straighten in long lengths. Good luck to all - regards, Steve
Click to expand...

Is there not a wire called "EasyGrind" that is supposed to be easier to hammer out and grind?
 
thanks Ralph Moore, i'l give the shop vacuum a go with a modified tip. this is becoming dental style equipment . i've manipulated some tools and found ways to peer into this cowl. i am avoiding dampness since i've fought off most of the rust. so compressed air and some more aluminum oxide blasting, i'l continue to scrape away and i do have this por15 once i feel its time.
as for the fuel tank , I put in about a quart of denatured alcohol into it and sure enough that spot is a leak. figures. now do i pick away at this canker or separate the tank ? either way it's a snag.
 
'29wagon,
You might be able to cut out the bad spot and weld in a patch(assuming the tank is purged of fuel), then use a good quality tank sealer to ensure there will be no leaks.

Ralph
 
Ralph Moore said:
'29wagon,
You might be able to cut out the bad spot and weld in a patch(assuming the tank is purged of fuel), then use a good quality tank sealer to ensure there will be no leaks.

Ralph
Click to expand...

Ralph, while I agree that there are many sealers that will ensure no leaks, however what are you recommending for a sealer that won't disolve as many of us are finding happening with these so-called "good quality" sealers? :D

,
 
I have not heard of them dissolving. I used one on a motorcyle tank once, but I don't remember the brand name.
Guess I'll have to do some research on them.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top